5O6 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS emotions. And quite rightly. Functional appraisal in physical terms can be reduced ad absurdurn by considering paintings in terms of cost of raw materials and square metres of wall covered. To give psychological and emotional satisfaction to consumers who seek it, is a worthy goal. We must always be on our guard that we do not join the pseudo-scientist who always finds the unperfumed bulk talc in a paper bag the 'best buy'. The public knows better and I believe we do too. There is however a new frontier for Evaluation Science in the interaction region between the emotional responses and the cold physical measure•nents-- the region of psychophysics into which we are gingerly reaching. In indus- trial research we cannot however deal individually with idiosyncratic interactions, but must tackle them on the basis of population segments. We seek to link the overall consumer satisfaction with a product with the combination of physical and psychological satisfaction. For years the existence of these interactions has been known in its cruder forms to every manufacturer of consumer goods. The amount of time and money spent deciding on the 'right' perfume for a product, the new sophisti- cation of preference tests done in a marketing ambience, complete with brand advertising support, the test markets, the house-to-house testing done on a pack design to see if it reinforces the product image or conflicts with it. Such investigations are indeed necessary when judged from a commercial point of view. The 'wrong' perfume or pack can quickly strangle, even at birth, a product otherwise acceptable in physical performance terms. But there is more to it than this. There can be a synergy between emotional properties and physical properties which is much more than an avoidance of sales negatives. There can be a real contribution to increased emotional satisfaction, which is an attribute of our products so frequently under- estimated. It should never be forgotten that a large part of our industry, and indeed many others, rests in providing this emotional satisfaction to people who seek this as earnestly and seriously as they do satisfaction of physical needs. What are the Arts, Literature, Music and the whole entertainment industry, including TV, but purveyors of emotional satisfaction? Do we measure a Beethoven string quartet by decibels as inferior to Rock Around the Clock ? It is vital that we never forget this aspect. The satisfaction of emotional n•eds is a valid and honourable part of our business and well understood by our perfumers and cosmetic houses. The interaction between emotional and physical satisfaction is much less well understood and needs new com- binations of skills, notably semantics.

THE PROMISE AND THE PRODUCT 507 To THE FUTURE Total quality assurance For the future we see a new concept of Total Quality Assurance which will be difficult to attain, but which must be our permanent target. We shall fall short from time to time, but--as I said at the I.F.S.C.C. in Londonreit must never be due to lack of effort or forethought (7). On that occasion I defined Quality Assurance as meaning that the promises offered by a pro- duct were valid and would continue to be valid. These promises will include aspects of physical performance--perhaps fundamental like hair colouring, perhaps trivial like the ability to pour out of a bottle from a cold bathroom shelf--these we can, and must, measure and be capable of supporting. There is also an implied promise of emotional satisfaction when the right target group is reached. Such satisfactions are not and should not be universal. And even the same person in different moods seeks different subjective satisfaction. There are some sherry drinkers who only drink Tio Pepe, some who only like Bristol Cream, and some who like one one day and one the other. And some who prefer the middle ground. But given an adequate physical quality in alcohol content, who would say there is a universal best? We carried out an interesting little clinical trial on toothbrush design and the cleaning of teeth. It provided a little information on design, but the main conclusion was that, when unsupervised, people cleaned their teeth best with the brush they themselves liked best. Proof in a scientific sense is lacking that similar considerations apply to toothpaste flavour vis-g-vis gum health or shampoo performance vis-g-vis dandruff, but the converse is well known. A caries-reduction trial carried out with a product that makes the user sick will show a nil result however good the in vitro physical evaluation. Quality Assurance then must include not only objective performance, including of course safety and storage stability, but also maintenance of the subjective qualities which are a part of the promise. The future of Evahtation Science We have already widely accepted, often welcomed, the demands for better substantiation of promises. This not only means assembly of evaluation