132 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) J. w. Stanfield, J. Levy, A. A. Kyriakopoulos, and P. M. Waldman, A new technique for evalu- ating bath oil in the treatment of dry skin, Cutis, 28, 458-460 (1981). W.A.G. Bruls, J.A.J. Fibre, and J. C. van der Leun, On the accuracy of differential measurements of the minimal erythema dose: Influence of the discreteness of the scale, Photochem. Photobiol., 36, 531-535 (1982). M. E. Chernosky, Clinical aspects of dry skin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 27, 365-376 (1976). F. Daniels and J. C. van der Leun, Problems in quantifying skin reactions, Arch. Dermatol., 97, 553-565 (1968). A.M. Kligman, Regression methods for assaying the efficacy of moisturisers, Cosmet. and Toilet., 93, 27-35 (1978). T. B. Fitzpatrick, "Fundamentals of Dermatologic Diagnosis," in Dermatology in General Medicine, 2nd ed., T. B. Fitzpatrick, A. Z. Eisen, K. Wolf, I. M. Friedberg, and K. F. Austin, Eds. (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1979), Part Two, pp. 10-37. J. C. Seitz, R. L. Rizer, and T. S. Spencer, Photographic standardization of dry skin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 35, 432-437 (1984). R. V. Dent, The photographic aspect of light reflection from human skin, J. Lab. Clin. Med., 26, 1852-1862 ( 1941). R. Breit, H. Kleber, and W. Will, Measurement of erythemal response to ultraviolet radiation by monochromatic photography of the skin, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 272, 93-96 (1982). I. Kikuchi, S. Inoue, M. Idemori, and H. Uchimura, Reflection ultraviolet photography as surface photography of the skin, J. Dermatol., 10, 551-559 (1983). E. Edwards, N. A. Finkelstein, and S. Q. Duntley, Spectrophotometry of living human skin in the ultraviolet range, J. Invest. Dermatol., 16, 311-321 (1951). J. A. Jacquez and H. F. Kuppenheim, Spectral reflectance of human skin the region 235-1000 mu, J. Appl. Physiol., 7, 523-528 (1955). J. A. Jacquez, W. McKeehan, J. Huss, J. M. Dimitroff, and H. F. Kuppenheim, Integrating sphere for the measurement of reflectance with Beckman model DR recording spectrophotometer, J. Opt. Soc. Amer., 45, 971-975 (1955). H. Tronnier, "Evaluation and Measurement of Ultraviolet Erythema," in The Biological Effects of Ultraviolet Radiation, F. Urbach, Ed. (Pergamon Press Ltd, London, 1969), pp. 255-266. B. L. Diffey, R. J. Oliver, and P.M. Fart, A portable instrument for quantifying erythema induced by ultraviolet radiation, Brit. J. Dermatol., 111, 663-672 (1984). J. B. Dawson, D.J. Barker, D. J. Ellis, E. Grassam, J. A. Cotterill, G. W. Fisher, and J. W. Feather, A theoretical and experimental study of light absorption and scattering by in vivo skin, J. Phys. Med. Biol., 25, 695-709 (1980). P.M. Farr and B. L. Diffey, Quantitative studies on cutaneous erythema induced by ultraviolet radiation, Brit. J. Dermatol., 111, 673-682 (1984). R. J. Scheuplein, A survey of some fundamental aspects of the absorption and reflection of light by tissue, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 15, 111-122 (1964). F. A. Jenkins and H. A. White, Fundamentals of Optics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1957), pp. 509-517. R. R. Anderson, J. Hu, and J. A. Parrish "Optical Radiation Transfer in Human Skin and Applica- tion in In Vivo Remittance Spectroscopy," in Bioengineering and the Skin, R. Marks and P. A. Payne, Eds. (M.T.P. Press, 1979), pp. 253-265. F.W.J. Teale, Fluorescence depolarization by light-scattering in turbid solution, Photochem. Photo- biol., 10, 363-371 (1969).
j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 39, 133-137 (1988) A method to determine N-nitrosoalkanolamines in alkanolamines HEIDEMARIE SOMMER, HANS-PETER LOFFLER, and GERHARD EISENBRAND, Lebensmittelchemie und Umwelttoxikologie, Fachbereich Chemie, Universitiit Kaiserslautern, Erwin-Schroedinger-Str., D-6750 Kaiserslautern (H.S., G.E.), und BASF Aktiengesellschafi, Untersuchungslaboratorium D-6700 Ludwigshas•n (H.-P. L. ), Federal Republic of Germany. Received August 31, 1987. Synopsis A method to determine N-nitrosoalkanolamines in alkanolamines is described. Removal of the amine by adsorbing it onto a cation exchange resin avoids artifact nitrosamine formation during subsequent work-up. Analysis of commercial grade samples showed various degrees of contamination. Analysis of high purity diethanolamine by this method showed no detectable contamination by N-nitrosodiethanolamine ( 5 ppb). This confirms that even with highly reactive secondary alkanolamines, artifact formation during analysis can be avoided. INTRODUCTION Alkanolamines, such as mono-, bis-, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine (ethanoIamine, MEA, diethanolamine, DEA, triethanolamine, TEA) and bis(2-hydroxypropyl)amine (diiso- propanolamine, BHPA) are widely used as formulation aids for cosmetics because they form stable emulsions in creams, lotions, and shampoos. They are utilized also for production of other cosmetic ingredients, such as amides of cocoa fatty acids, so-called "foam boosters." The high reactivity of secondary amines towards nitrosating agents represents a potential health hazard because the resulting nitrosamines such as N-ni- troso-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine (N-nitrosodiethanolamine, NDELA) and N-nitroso- bis(2-hydroxypropyl)amine (N-nitrosodiisopropanolamine, NBHPA) are potent carcin- ogens (1-6). Analytical studies have demonstrated that NDELA can be present at sometimes rather high concentrations in a wide spectrum of cosmetics and toiletries (7-10). In order to reduce NDELA contamination already in the constituents used for production of cos- metics, the German "Industrieverband KiSrperpflege und Waschmittel" issued a speci- fication for TEA in 1983 that defined tolerable contents of 1% each for DEA and 133
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