j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 43, 49-54 (January/February 1992) Percutaneous absorption of lavender oil from a massaDe oil w. J•GER, G. BUCHBAUER, L. JIROVETZ, and M. FRITZER, Institute of Pharmaceutical Chemistry (W.J., G.B., L.J. ) and Institute of Medical Chemistry (Mo F. ), University of Vienna, Wdihringer Stra?e I0, A-1090 Vienna, Austria. Received July 12, 1991. Presented in part at the Forum Cosmeticum Viennensis, Vienna, Austria, November 16, 1991. Synopsis In the present study, the percutaneous absorption of the essential oil of lavender from a massage oil was investigated. It was shown that lavender oil penetrates the skin of a male subject. Within five minutes of finishing, the massage traces of linalool (1) and linalyl acetate (2) as the main constituents of lavender oil could be detected in the blood. After 20 minutes, 100 ng/ml for 2 and 121 ng/ml for 1 showed up as the maximum concentration. Within 90 minutes, most of the lavender oil was eliminated. The sedative and relaxing effect of lavender oil after a massage may be based on two different ways of incorporation: the inhalation of fragrant molecules and the penetration through the skin. INTRODUCTION The essential oil of lavender, a pale-yellow liquid with a characteristic slightly cam- phoraceous odor, is obtained from Lavendula angustifolia Mill. (syn. L. officinalis Chaix, L. vera D.C.) (1). The medical effects of lavender oil have been discussed for a long time (2-7). Due to its sedative and spasmolytic effects, this essential oil is used as a mild sedativum in the case ofpsychosomatic disorders, insomnia, and nervousness (8). Owing to these effects, it is increasingly used by aromatherapists and cosmetic chemists, and in folk medicine. In combination with other essential oils, it is applied as a massage treatment (9) and used for baths and inhalation in the case of nervous tension, migraine, rheumatism, and several skin disorders such eczema and dermatitis. It is also used as a very important oil in the fragrance industries (10). In spite of its widespread use, little research about the absorption via lung or skin has been described. In previous animal experiments we showed that lavender oil can lead to sedation after inhalation (11). The blood samples after one hour inhalation were investigated by gas chromatographic- spectroscopic analyses in order to identify 1 and 2 as main components of the essential oil (12-13). To confirm the results of the GC-FID measurements, analyses were carried out by GC-MS total ion current (TIC), with retention time and mass spectra comparison and single-ion monitoring (SIM) over ion profiles of the main fragments at m/z 71 amu, 49

50 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 93 amu, and 121 amu by electron impact (EI). Therefore, our aim was to study a possible absorption of the essential oil of lavender from a massage oil during a massage and to analyze the volatile components quantitatively in defined intervals. MATERIALS AND METHODS MATERIALS Lavender oil (24.79% 1, 29.59% 2), linalool, linalyl acetate, tiglinic acid benzyl ester (ST), and peanut oil are products of Dragoco Comp. (Austria). Heparine (5000 I.U./ml) was obtained from Immuno Austria and methanol p.a. from Merck (BRD). Massage oil: lavender oil/peanut oil (2:98, W/W). EXPERIMENTAL CONDITIONS One and one-half grams of massage oil were spread on a defined skin area of the stomach (27 X 14 cm = 376 cm 2) from a male subject (body weight 60 kg, age 34). For ten minutes the oil was gently massaged into the skin and the remaining oil was completely removed. Blood samples (3.0 ml) were drawn from the left cubital vein 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 30, 45, 60, 75, and 90 minutes after finishing the massage. Heparine was added to the samples, the plasma centrifuged (2500 rpm, ten minutes), and the samples stored 0R 1: R-H 2: R - COCH a o H3C CH 3 ST