380 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Grooming, treatments, 347 Group selectivity, 319 Hair, 69, 109, 347 Bleaching, 347 bulk properties of, 347 cleaning, 221,263 damage, 163, 347 dulling, 221 gloss, 299 grooming of, 347 oxidation of, 347 permed, 263,347 primary damage, 347 products, 347 reduction of, 347 secondary damage, 347 shine, 221,263 soiling, 263 structure, 347 surface, 221,263,347 surface measurements, 221 wetability of, 347 Hair gloss, characterization of, 299 measuring of, 299 visual evaluation of, 299 Hairless mice, 129 Half-head tests, 263 Human Hair, 1 Humidity relative, 89 Humectancy, 89 Hygroscopicity and water holding capacity, 279 Hydroxy acids, 319 Image Analysis, 53 test, 289 Indicatrix, measurements of hair strands, 299 Infrared, 109 Insoluble complexes, 263 Keratin 347 surfaces, 263 Kukui, 239 Lactic acid, 319 Lanolin, 181 Laser Scanning, 1 Law Beer--Lambert's, 139 Lead doping, 181 Light scattering, 221,263 Linear regression method, 329 Lipid, crystallization, 89 Model 89 packing, 89 Liposome loading method, 123 stability to suffactant-induced breakage, 123 Liquid crystalline phase, 89 Luminance, 299 Measurements, 1 goniophotometric, 299 hair gloss, 299 hair surface, 221 indicatrix, of hair strands, 299 quantitative shine, 221 shine, 221 surface, 221 Mechanical Properties and swelling, 177 Method, linear regression, 329 Methylene blue, test, 289 Mice, hairless, 129 Microfluorometry, 347 Microorganisms, 329 Microscopy, optical, 89, 337 scanning electron microscopy (SEM), 347 Model lipid, 89 two-phase, 177 Moisturization, 249 Moisturizers, 89 agente, 279 mechanisms, 181, 197 Molds, 329 Mouth, odor, 101 Near infrared 249 spectroscopy, 197 Odor, mouth, 101 1, 6-diphenyl-1, 3, 5-hexatriene (DPH), 123 fluorescence, 123 in liposomes, 123 Oil, castor, 319 Optical microscopy, 89 Organoleptic (Sensory) Rating, 101 Orientation of structures, 177 Ornithine decarboxylase, 129 Particle deposition, 221 Permed hair, 263 Perming, 163,347 Phospholipid egg, 123 purity and liposome properties, 123 soya, 123 Photodamage, 109 Photoprotection, 129 Polymer JR, 221 Polyquaternium 10, 221 Preservative, efficacy testing, 329 Preservation, cosmetic, 329 Protection, cuticle, 163 Protein loss, 163 Quality control, 235 Quantitative Shine measurement, 221 Radiation ultraviolet, 129 Radiotracer studies, 263 Rating Organic (Sensory), 101 Reflectance spectroscopy, 249 Reflection diffuse, 221 specular, 221 Relative humidity, 89 Relaxation stress, 69 Rheology, 337

SUBJECT INDEX 381 Scaling disorders, 53 Scanning electron microscopy, 347 Scattering light, 263 Shampoo 263 treatments, 221 Shine, 221 hair, 221,263 measurement, 221 quantitative measurement, 221 Simulator solar, 139 Skin cancer, 129 dry, 197 human, 197 roughness, 289 Sodium deceth sulfate 263 Sodium myristate, 221 Solar simulator, 139 Soya phospholipids, 123 Spectrophotometric assay, 235 Specular reflection, 221 SPF, 139 in vitro, 139 Stability, 239 creams, 337 Storage loop, 101 Stratum corneum, 181 Stearalkonium chloride, 263 Stretching, 1 Stress, relaxation, 69 Stripping, 239 Structures, orientation of, 177 Sulfate sodium deceth, 263 Sunscreens, 109, 139 Suprox, 163 Surface, 1 fiber, 221 hair, 221,263 keratin, 263 Surfactants, 163 cationic, 263 short chain, 263 Swatches wool, 263 Swelling, 1 and mechanical properties, 177 Tandem Scanning reflected light microscope, 1 Test dye staining, 221 evaluation of methods, 289 imageanalysis, 289 mathylene blue, 289 preservative efficacy, 329 Thermal Optical Videomicroscopy, 337 Transpore(R} tape, 139 Treatments, shampoo, 221 Tryptophan, 109 12-Hydroxystearic acid, 319 Two-Phase Model, 177 Ultraviolet radiation, 129 Urea-containing agents, 279 Videomicroscopy, Thermal Optical, 337 Volatile Sulfur Compound (VSC), 101 Volume, 1 Water partitioning, 69 Water--binding in skin, 249 Wettability, of hair, 347 wilhelmy balance, 347 Wilhelmy balance wettability, 347 Winter xerosis, 197 Wooding-Finkelstein Method, 13 Wool swatches, 263 Xerosis, 53 winter, 197 Yeast, 329