j. Cosmet. Sci., 50, 391-394 (November/December 1999) SUBJECT INDEX TO VOLUME 50 Acetylhyaluronate softening effect on stratum corneum, 171 Acids acetic, 307, 363 ot-hydroxy (including glycolic, lactic), 85(1'), 159, 307, 315 amino, 363 benzoic, 363 butyric, 307 carboxylic, 363 fatty, 188 L-ascorbic, 281 nucleic, 287 salicylic, 315, 363 tartaric, 307 thiolactic, 307 urocanic, 119 Aerosol foams bubble size, 351 coalescence rate, 351 containing aqueous cationic polymer and anionic surfactant, 351 dissolved state of components in, 351 flow curve, 351 gas volume fraction, 351 stability, 351 viscosity, 351 yield curve, 351 Alkali metal hydroxides as hair-straightening agents, 121 Anti-irritants epidermis, effects on, 190 in vitro methods for screening, 190 in vivo assessment, 190 *Because of an error in the pagination of issues 1 and 2, the designation of pages 69-98 was dupli- cated. For these page numbers, the text location of the index entry is indicated throughout the index by the appearance of the correct volume number in parentheses. Antioxidants ot-tocopherol, 249, 281 in hydroquinone cream, 221 L-ascorbic acid, 281 in Piper nigrum Linn., 221 Trolox, 21 Autooxidation of citral, 281 in micellar solutions and microemulsions, 281 Ceramides organization in the skin barrier, 188 Chitosan N-aminoethyl, as drug delivery vehicle, 307 N-carboxyethyl, as drug delivery vehicle, 307 Coconut oil in prevention of hair damage, 327 Copolymers (see also Polymers) polyacrilamide, 50 polyethylene glycol-8/SMDI, 133 DNA damage, 341 in human scalp hair, 297 repair, 341 Electrophoresis of human scalp hair, 297 Emulsions (see also Microemulsion gels Microemulsions) aqueous phase, 15 [3-cyclodextrin-stabilized paraffin oil/water, 15 droplet size, 9, 15 formation, 15 fragrance emulsion system, 203 influence of temperature, centrifugation, 9, 15 particle size, 15 preparation, 9, 15 rheological properties, 15 solid phase, 15 stability, 15, 205 storage, 15 sunscreen gel, 9 391

392 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Fatty acids organization in the skin barrier, 188 Fragrances alcohol-tree or low-alcohol-content, 281 in a model emulsion system, 203 odorous molecules, 281 2-methylfuran derivatives, 91 (2), 99 Hair alignment, 23 alopecia, 126 bleaching, 327 boiling water, effect on, 327 craze formation, 69(2) cuticle, 23, 69(2), 327 cyclical torsion of fibers, 69(2) damage, 327 differential friction, 23 DNA content, 297 18-MEA content, 23 fatigue analysis, 198 melanized, 126 porosity, 121 protein loss, 327 scalp hair, 297 scalp surface detritus, 23 shear bands, 69(2) surface, self-repairing, 23 swelling, 121 tangling, 23 water-retention index, 327 Hair care biological changes with age, 1 ! 2 dyes, 124, 130, 231 straightening agents, 121 styling, use of conditioning polymers, 59 Hair cuticle A-layer, 23 [3-1ayers, 23 cell membrane co•nplex (CMC), 23, 327 chemistry, 23 contributions to hair's overall behavior, 23 cracks, 69(2) damage, 327 damage patterns, 69(2) g-layer, 23 endocuticle, 23, 327 exocuticle, 23, 327 fracture, 69(2) gross structure, 23 inner layer, 23 internal structure, 23 lipids in [3-1ayers of, 23 mechanical attrition of, 23 monolayers, 23 physical properties, 23 plastic yielding, 69(2) protein, 23 "split ends," 69(2), 327 torsion, effect at varying relative humidities, 69(2) Hair dyes dye-matrix mixtures, 231 intermediates, 231 matrix compounds, 231 natural dyes, 130 oxidative dyes, analysis by HPLC, 231 oxidative dyes based on polymeric thickeners, 124 Hair-straightening agents differential scanning colorimetry, 121 fiber tensile testing, 121 single-fiber tensile kinetics, 121 Heavy elements One-atom-at-a-time chemistry of, 96 High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in analysis of oxidative hair dyes, 231 for determination of acids, 315 in measurement of drug concentrations, 363 Hydroqninone absorption studies, 114 cream, antioxidant activity of, 221 dermal effects, 114 in skin-lightening products, 114 toxicity, 115 Hydroxy acids {x-hydroxydecanoic acid, 315 {x-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 315 in cosmetic products and salon preparations, 315 delivery to the skin, 85(1), 159 glycolic acid, 315 lactic acid, 315 mechanisms of action, 159 Irritants in vivo assessment of, 192 Kerolytic agents analysis for, in commercial products, 315 Laureth-4 in fragrance emulsion system, 203 Liposomes in transdermal drug absorption, 249 Matrix compounds in analysis of oxidative hair dyes, 231 Maturity hair, 112 skin, 117 Miceliar solutions as vehicle for odorous molecules, 281 Micelies, swollen obtained with citral, 281 obtained with limonene, 281 obtained with linalool, 281