SUBJECT INDEX 393 Microemulsion gels isopropyl myristate, polysorbate 80, glycerol, and water, 1 phase study, 1 rheological study, 1 thixotropy, 1 viscosity, 1 Microemulsions droplets, diameters of, 203 oil-in-water, 1 systems, 281 as vehicles for odorous molecules, 281 Microscopy fluorescent analysis of human scalp hair, 297 Microspectroscopy analysis of human scalp hair, 297 Nail care products enamel removers, 69(1) in vitro assessment of, 69(2) latex polish, 67, 105 solvent-borne polish, 67, 105 topical products fbr treatment of onychomycosis, 363 water-based polish, additives for, 67, 105 water-borne polish, 67, 105 Nails amino acid composition, 363 biochemical properties, 71 (1) blood supply, 363 chemical composition, 363 growth, 363 keratin matrix, 363 permeability properties, 363 physical properties, 363 softening, 363 structural characteristics: matrix, bed, plate, 363 swelling tests, 363 topical treatment of onychomycosis, 71 (1), 363 Natural cosmetic actives betulin, 87(1) fennel, 87(1) natural hair dyes, 130 seeds of Piper nigrum Linn., 221 soy vacuolar protein, 52 Nuclear hormone receptors role in regulating epidermal differentiation, 186 Nucleic acid as macromolecule of human scalp hair, 297 Oils coconut oil, 327 natural emulsification of, by [3-casein, poly(L-aspartic acid), Manduca sexta apolipophorin III, and a soybean vacuolar protein, 52 sandalwood oil, 194 pH in cosmetic products and salon preparations, 315 effect on nail permeability using ionizable drugs, 363 effect on phase behavior of dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide and polyvinylamine solutions, 81 (1) Phenol determination of, in cosmetic products, 315 Photoprotection by tanning enhancers, 341 by vitamin E, 249 Polymers (see also Copolymers) in aerosol foams, 351 cationic, optical and frictional properties of, 201 conditioning, for hair styling, 59 drug/polymer binding, 133 ionic composition, 79(•) polyampholytes, 79(•) polymer-surfactant complexes, 79(1), 81 (1), 351 thickeners in oxidative hair dyes, 124 Polysaccharides oligosaccharide extracted from membrane of Laminaria digitata, for use in skin care, 94(•) Resorcinol determination of, in cosmetic products, 315 Sandalwood oil identification and distinction between natural and synthetic, 194 Sebum Clinical model for measurement, 196 Silicones emulsions, 9 reactive, use in deposition of naturally derived hair color, 130 thickening technology, 83(1) Skin acne vulgaris, 249 barrier, 188 cosmetic formulations, skin penetration properties, 147 cutaneous inflammatory response, 77(•) DNA damage, 341 D-panthenol penetration, 147 delivery of hydroxy acids to, 85(•) dry skin condition, 171 epidermal differentiation, 186 erythema and edema, 249 glycolic acid penetration, 159 immune reactions, 77(•) in vitro absorption/metabolism studies, 63 irritants, 190, 192 maturity, effects of, 117 melanogenesis, 341

394 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE photocarcinogenesis, 249 photodamage, 119, 249 physiology, 171 sebum, surface, 196 sensitive, women's self-perception of, 65 viability assays, 63 vitamin A penetration, 159 vitamin B6 permeation, 307 vitamin E penetration, 147, 249 water-holding capacity, 171 Skin care hydration, 263 hydroquinone in creams, lotions, and gels, 114 Laminaria digitata, use of, 94(1) lightening and darkening materials, 61 photoprotection by tanning enhancers, 341 photoprotection by vitamin E, 249 smoothness and softening by vitamin E, 263 sot•ening by AcHA lotion, 171 treatment, active ingredients, 90(•) Soaps behavioral properties, 57 Solubilization of citral, 281 of limonene, 281 of linalool, 281 Stability factors in model fragrance emulsion system, 203 Stratum corneum (see also Skin) dynamic elastic modulus, 171 softening effect of acetylhyaluronate on, 171 Sunscreen emulsions benzophenone-3, 79(2) distribution from diisopropyl adipate oil prototype formulations, 79(2) distribution from hydroalcoholic prototype formulations, 79(2) gel, 9 octyl methoxycinnamate, 79(2) water resistance of, 79(2) Surfactants anionic complexes, 79(1), 351 behavioral properties of, 57 DPGS, 281 non-ethoxylated, 281 nonionic, 351 polymer-surfactant complexes, 79(•), 81 (1), 351 SaccharoseML, 281 Topically applied drugs antithngals, for treatment of onychomycosis, 71 (1), 363 glycolic acid, 159 lactic acid, delivery of, 133 nail penetration, 363 oil- and water-soluble vitamins, penetration of, 147 salicylic acid, delivery of, 133 vitamin A, 159 vitamin B6, chitosan as vehicle for delivery of, 307 vitamin E, 147, 249 2-methylfuran odor characteristics, 91(2), 99 physicochemical characteristics, 91(2), 99 Urocanic acid photoisomerization of, 119 and skin photodamage, 119 Vapor pressures in model fragrance emulsion system, 203 Viscosity tests in gels, 307 Vitamin A penetration, in dermocosmetic skin formulations, 159 Vitamin B6 permeation of skin, 307 Vitamin E as antioxidant, 281 o•-tocopherol, 249 biological actions on topical administration, 249 chemistry, 249 detection in skin, 147 distribution, 249 in erytherna and edema, 249 esters, skin metabolism of, 249 liposomes in absorption of, 249 mechanism of action, 249 membrane stabilization by, 249 percutaneous absorption, 249 photoprotection by, 249 regeneration of, 249 skin delivery, 249 skin concentrations, 249 tocotrienol, 249