122 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Luster by instrumental detection depends on spectral reflectance of the hair, spectral power distribution of light source and eventually on spectral response of the detector. Goniophotometric measurements when using a monochromatic illumination source serve as a sensitive probe of fiber absorptive and scattering properties. GP curves in Figure 2 show that the diffuse components for Piedmont hair colored with semipermanent and pure dyes to various colors are different. Thus, the luster values are different for hair colored to different colors. Results show the complexity when comparing the luster of colored hair from goniophotometric curves, arising from variations in dye composition, concentration and its penetration depth into the fiber. Semipermanent dyes namely consist of combination of various dyes (aromatic amines, amino nitrobenzenes and anthraquinone derivates) with different affinities. On the other hand, pure dyes serve as an example of single component dyes with homogeneous dye distribution throughout the fiber. ln order to analyze the effect of above mentioned parameters on scattering and absorptive processes, the expression for the dependence of diffuse reflectance on dye absorbance and the path length of the dyed region within the fiber has been derived. According to this equation, diffuse reflectance is reduced by dyes having higher extinction coefficient and are capable of penetrating the fiber completely. Such hair colors will increase luster. o.,l 0.36 1 0.3 :io.25 i 02j [!! io.1s1 40 50 80 70 80 Scatlaring angle (deg.-) 10 20 30 50 80 Figure 2. GP curves for Piedmont hair dyed with multi-component semipermanent (left) and single­ component dyes (right) to various hues (illumination wavelength 632 nm). Ideally, under the illumination with a broad homogeneous spectral power distribution light source, the luster by instrumental detection should not depend on hair color as long as the dyeing level and dye distribution within the fiber is the same. Beside the spectral power distribution of the light source and reflectance of the object, the perceptual description of color depends on spectral sensitivity of the eye. Talcing into account that the eye of a person with normal vision is not equally sensitive over the entire visible spectrum, the expression for perceived luster is derived. From the theoretical considerations under given assumptions, the luster from hair of chromatic colors is perceived differently by the human eye. References (l) R. F. Stamm, M. L. Garcia and J. J. Fuchs, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 571-599 (1977). (2) W. Czepluch, G. Hohm and K. Tolkiehn, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 299-317 ( 1993). (3) H.K.Bustard and R. W. Smith, Applied Optics, 30, 3485-3491 (1991). (4) A. Guiolet, J.C. Garson, and J. L. Levecque, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 9, 111-124 (1987). (5) C. Reich and C.R.Robbins, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 221-234 (1993). (6) J. H. S. Rennie, S. E. Bedford and J. D. Hague, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 19, 131-140 (1997). (7) C. Scanavez, M. Zoega, A. Barbosa, and I. Joekes, J. Cosmet. Sci., 51, 289-302 (2000). (8) Y. Tango and K. Shirnrnoto, J. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 237-250 (2001). (9) S. Nagase, S. Shibuichi, K. Ando, E. Kariya and N. Satoh, J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 89-100 (2002). (10) M. Okamoto, R. Yalcawa, A. Mamada, S. Inoue, S. Nagase, S. Shibuichi, E. Kariya and N. Satoh, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 353-366 (2003). (11) F.J. Wortmann, E. Schulze zur Wiesche and A. Bierbaum, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 301-316 (2003). (12) R. McMullen and J. Jachowicz, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 335-351 (2003).
2003 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 123 SYRNERGISTIC EFFECTS OF HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT POLYETHYLENE OXIDE (PEO) AND CATIONIC CELLULOSIC POLYMERS ON CONDITIONING PROPERTIES OF HAIR CARE PRODUCTS Wing Li, Susan L.P. Jordan, Xiaodong Zhang, Jennifer Amos and Cal Davis Amerchol Corporation, A Subsidiary of The Dow Chemical Company Summarv: A hair cleansing composition containing both high molecular weight PEO and cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) was found to provide superior conditioning performance. Hair treated with a formulation containing both cationic HEC and high molecular weight PEO showed 30% better wet combing reduction than the formulation containing cationic HEC only. In conjunction with PEO, cationic HEC-dependent deposition of silicone oil and octyl methoxycinnan1ate (OMC) onto hair was enhanced 27% and 25%, respectively. When examined with a polarized 1nicroscope, the appearance of the polymer-surfactant complex (coacervate) of the diluted formulation differed in the presence of PEO. In particular, the particle size of the coacervate in the formulation containing both PEO and cationic HEC was smaller. This result indicates PEO reduces the size of the deposition precipitate by preventing the coacervate from agglomerating. Surface analysis also showed that the presence of PEO in formulations containing cationic HEC deposited insoluble actives more evenly on the hair surface. Background A conditioning shampoo should provide suitable cosmetic properties to hair, such as making it soft, lustrous, and easy to comb. Polymers and various types of benefit agents contribute to cosmetic properties. For example, silicones are insoluble actives that are commonly used as conditioning agents for hair. Silicones can effectively reduce combing friction of hair and provide a soft, smooth feel and a shiny appearance. UV inhibitors are becoming more commonly used in shampoo formulations for preventing hair color fading and damage. Cationic polymers are known to aid the deposition of such insoluble actives. They are believed to form a coacervate (polymer-surfactant complex) phase or be in a coacervate phase upon application and rinsing of the formulation (1,2). TI1e fom1ation and properties of the coacervate affect the combined deposition of insoluble actives and cationic polymers onto keratinous substrates (3,4). In addition, foam properties are important component of the consumer's perception of product performance. High molecular weight polyethylene oxide (PEO) is a linear, nonionic, water-soluble homopolymer with molecular weight from IOOK to 4M. These polymers haYe been increasingly used in cleansing systems such as shampoos and body washes because they are known to enhance foam properties such as foam volume and density. They also impart a soft feel to the cleansed skin and hair. This study was undertaken to examine the effect of PEO on cleansing formulations that contain cationic HEC. The interactions of high molecular weight PEO with high molecular weight cationic HEC were studied in two different cleansing systems: (A) 4% anm10nium lauryl sulfate (ALS) / 13.5% ammonium laureth sulfate (ALES)/ 2.6% cocamdiopropylbetaine (CAPB) / l % sodium chloride and (2) 15.5% sodium laureth sulfate (ES-2) / 2.6% disodium cocamphodiacetate (DSCADA). Nonionic emulsion of high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane and OMC were used for deposition study. Experimental Results: Foam volume and density measurement- Foam volume and density were quantitatively measured by washing hand and hair with prototype formulations. The formulation containing PEO increased the foam volume by 70% and produced denser and creamier foam than the formulation without PEO. Wet combability - The wet combing force was measured by using the load cell of a Dia-Stron Miniature Tensile Tester (MTT). When a comb is pulled through a wet hair tress, reduction in total work done is associated with the removal of entanglements of the hair fiber. Commercial bleached blond hair was treated with formulations containing 0.3% high molecular weight, low charge (HL) cationic HEC with and without 0.1 % PEO in both surfactant A and B. The hair treated with the formulation containing cationic HEC and PEO showed 30% better combing reduction force compared to the formulation containing HEC only. Silicone deposition on hair - The total amount of silicone deposited on hair treated with a shampoo formulation containing 0.25% high molecular weight, high charge (HH) cationic HEC with and without 0.1 ¾PEO was measured. Virgin brown hair was treated five times with the prototype formulation. The
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