92 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE derived. Figure 5 shows the relation between the data derived in this manner for 1/w and the presumed gloss index values. When appreciable hair gloss is generated, i.e., when the peak for specular reflection starts to dominate the GP curves, which occurs around GL 20-30%, a largely linear relationship is observed, as marked in Figure 5, which corresponds to Reich and Rob­ bins' observation (11). In this view, the hypothesis that the gloss index is a valid measure for hair luster that correlates with the consumer's perception of hair shine is further corroborated. Furthermore, more elusive facets related to hair gloss, such as "silky" or "greasy" hair shine, are the objective of current investigations. REFERENCES (1) F.-J. Wortmann, E. Schulze zur Wiesche, and A. Bierbaum, Analyzing the laser-light reflection from human hair fibers. I. Light components underlying the goniophotometric curves and fiber cuticle angles,]. Cos1net. Sci., 54, 301-316. (2) R. S. Hunter, Methods of determining gloss (RP958),J. Res. Nat. Bur. Stand., 19, 19-39 (1937). (3) D. Nickerson, A new cotton luscermeter for yarns and fibers, Text. Res.]., 27, 111-123 (1957). (4) S. Nagase, N. Satoh, and K. Nakamura, Influence of internal structure of hair fiber on hair appearance. II. Consideration of the visual perception mechanism of hair appearance,]. Cos1net. Sci., 53, 387--402 (2002). (5) R. F. Stamm, L. M. Garcia, and J.J. Fuchs, The optical properties of human hair. II. The luster of hair fibers,]. Soc. Costnet. Che1n., 28, 601-609 (1977). (6) W. Czepluch, G. Hohm, and K. Tolkiehn, Gloss of hair surfaces: Problems of visual evaluation and possibilities for goniophotometric measurements of treated strands,]. Soc. Cos1net. Che1n., 44, 299-318 (1993). (7) C. Scanavez, M. Zoega, A. Barbosa, and I. Joekes, Measurement of hair luster by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry, J. Cos1net. Sci., 51, 289-302 (2000). (8) C. Zviak and C. Bouillon, "Hair Teatment and Hair Care Produces," in The Science of Hair Care, C. Zviak, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1986). (9) I. van Reech, V. Caprasse, S. Postiaux, and M. Starch, Hair shine: Correlating instrumental and visual methods for measuring the effects of silicones, IFSCC Mag., 4, 21-26 (2001). (10) M. S. Starch, Screening silicones for hair luster, Cos1net. Toiletr., 114, 55-60 (1999). (11) C. Reich and C. Robbins, Light scattering and shine measurements of human hair: A sensitive probe of the hair surface,]. Soc. Cosrnet. Chern., 44, 221-234 (1993). (12) B. M. Reimer, R. L. Oldinski, and D. A. Glover, An objective method for evaluating hair shine, Soap!Cosrnet.!Chern. Spec., 71, 44-47 (1995). (13) Y. Tango and K. Shimmoto, Development of a device to measure human hair luster,]. Costnet. Sci., 52, 237-250 (2001). (14) G. Kigle-Boeckler, Measuring gloss and reflection properties of surfaces, TAPP!]., 79, 194-198 (1996). (15) H. K. Bustard and R. W. Smith, Studies of factors affecting light scattering by individual human hair fibers, Int. J. Costnet. Sci., 12, 121-133 (1990). (16) M. Haller, H. Schmidt, and G. Sendelbach, Measurement of the optical paths oflight in hair, Proc. 21st IFSCC Int. Congress, Poster 42, Berlin, 2000. (17) A. Guiolet, J. C. Garson, and J. L. Levecque, Study of the optical properties of human hair, Int. J. Costnet. Sci., 9, 111-124 (1987). (18) E. Schulze zur Wiesche, Untersuchungen zur haarpflegenden Wirkung von Henna, MSc thesis, DWI, Aachen University of Technology, 1995. (19) R. F. Stamm, M. L. Garcia, and J. J. Fuchs, The optical properties of human hair. I. Fundamental considerations and goniophotometer curves,]. Soc. Cosrnet. Che1n., 28, 571-599 (1977).

MEASURE OF HAIR LUSTER 93 (20) S. Nagase, S. Shibuishi, K. Ando, E. Kariya, and N. Satoh, Influence of internal structure of hair fiber on hair appearance. I. Light scattering from porous structure of the medulla of human hair,]. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 89-100 (2002). (21) Statistica for Windows (computer program manual) (StatSofr Inc., Tulsa, OK, 1999). (22) J. H. Zar, Biostatistical Analysis (Prentice Hall, NJ, 1996). (23) M. Gamez-Garcia, The cracking of human hair cuticles by cyclic thermal stresses,]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 49, 141-153 (1998). (24) J. H. S. Rennie, S. E. Bedford, and). D. Hague, A model for the shine of hair arrays, Int.]. Costnet. Sci., 19, 131-140 (1997). (25) F.-J. Wortmann, E. Schulze zur Wiesche, and B. Bourceau, Determining hair shine from the laser light reflection of human hair fibers, Proc. 22nd IFSCC Int. Congress, Paper 81, Edinburgh, 2002.