126 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Microscopy - Natural scanning electron microscopy was carried out on a Hitachi S2460N Variable pressure Scanning Electron Microscope (NSEM). All confocal microscopy data was acquired on a Zeiss inverted 200M Axioskop equipped with a Zeiss 510 LSM NLO confocal microscope (Jena, Germany) using AIM software release v3.2. Results and Conclusions NSEM - The NSEM micro graphs of bleached hair tresses in Figure 2 show the surface texture of the hair fibers treated with shampoos containing polymers A, !2, , and!: to be visibly smoother than the control hair fibers in I- Samples treated with formulation l have a jagged, roughened cuticle structure. The surface of the hair samples treated with formulations containing polymers A, !2, , or!: have a smooth, coated appearance, the edges of the cuticle visibly less jagged. At higher magnification, the coating appears to be a textured deposit, with larger concentrations near the cuticle edges. The deposit visible on the control sample I is spread over the cuticle surface with less concentration at the cuticle edge, suggesting that these textured deposits represent the surfactant or polymer+surfactant deposits left on the hair. The s_urface of the hair sample treated with polymer g appears to be more heavily coated, with thread-like trails of deposit remaining on the hair. Note that this polymer has the highest cationic charge density of all the polymers in Table 1. Estimated coating thickness increases in the order polymer !2A !: and apparent ease of removal by a second shampoo treatment shows the opposite trend, ~AEQ. These results are consistent with charge density and polymer backbone type being the dominant factor in polymer deposition with molecular weight and charge density playing a role in buildup of this deposit from anionic shampoo. CLSM - CLSM was used to study bleached hair fibers from the same tresses examined with NSEM. As with NSEM, the reflection image in Figure 3 of hair fibers from the control sample, I, shows a roughened cuticle surface. The reflection images for all hair fibers in Figure 3 treated with a shampoo containing a cationic polymer show an improvement in the smoothness of the cuticle surface, reflecting the conditioning performance of these cationic polymers. The level of coating between samples can only be estimated from this technique as following the order: polymer QH QA~ . Ease of removal of the surface coating by a second shampoo treatment is shown by the reflectance images in Figure 4. CLSM Fluorescence Images - Bleached and virgin European medium brown hair tresses were treated with 0.2wt% aqueous solutions of the polymers in Table l. Tresses were then treated with 5-FAM, an anionic dye, intended to bind to cationic polymer deposits on the hair fibers. All tresses in Figure 5 show varying levels of fluorescence located mainly at the cuticle edges of the tresses, with the exception of thl! tress treated with polymer E. The fluorescence image for polymer g is a nonuniform deposit trailing down the hair fibers. A similar image was reported for polyquaternium-10 containing a covalently bound fluorescent chromophore [12]. The location of the fluorescence at the edges of the cuticle for polymers A-Q correlate with the NSEM results, showing a concentration of a deposit at the cuticle edges. The results for polymer g correlate with both the NSEM and CLSM images, showing a deposit along the hair fiber for polymer . In a second study with virgin European brown hair and shampoo formulation B, concentration of the fluorescence at the cuticle edges was again observed for polymers A,!!, Q, !:, and Q. These results support the interpretation that the deposits at the cuticle edges observed in NSEM and in CLS fluorescent microscopy are derived from cationic polymer and surfactant. References l. S. B. Ruetsch, Y. K. Karnath, H.-D. Weigmann, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 63-83, 2003 2. E. D. Goddard and W. C. Harris, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 38, 233-246, 1987. 3. P. Hosse!, R. Dieing, R. Norenberg, A. Fau, R. Sander, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 22, 1-10,2000 4. V. F. Monteiro, A.S. Pinheiro, E. R. Leite, J. A. M. Agnelli, M.A. Pereira-Da-Silva, E. Longo, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 271-281, 2003 5. J. S. Dalton, G. C. Allen, P. J. Heard, K. R. Hallam, N. J. Elton, M. J. Walker, G. Matz, J. Cosmet. Sci., 51, 275-287, 2000 6. C. Hadjur, G. Daty, G. Madry, P. Corcuff, Scanning, 24(2), 59-64, 2002 7. S. T. A. Regismond, Y.-M. Heng, E. D. Goddard, F. M. Winnick, Langmuir, 15, 3007-3010, 1999

2003 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 8. J. V. Gruber, F. M. Winnick, A. Lapierre, N. D. Kha)oo, N. Joshi, P. N. Konish. /. Cosmet. Sci., 52, l 19-129, 2001 9. H.-D. Weigmann, Y. K. Karnath, S. B. Ruetsch, P. Busch, H. Tesmann, J. Soc. Cosme!. Chem., 41, 379-390, 1990 IO. M. L. Tate, Y. K. Karnath, S. B. Ruetsch, H.-D. Weigmann, J. Soc. Cosme!. Chem., 44. 347-371, 1993 l 1. S. Jindal, Presentation at the HBA Global 2002 Product Development Co11fere11ce, 2002 12. M. Gamez-Garcia, J. V. Gruber, F. M. Winnik, B. R. Lamoureux, Proceedi11gs XX/st IFSCC /ntemario11al Congress 2000, Berlin, 176-183 Fig 2 H•lur•I Sc.•nrung Electron Mt ro•c.opy kTl•ge1 ot Bi.ached EutopHn .._d,um Brown Hair aftu Sh•mpoo Treatmene Cond,,ioning Polymer E 2,000X 2,000X 2.000X 2.000X Fig • Confocal Luer S�at'ln1ng Microscopy Reflecte-d light Images of Shampooed. BJ.ache,d European Medium Brown Hilut after 2nd Shampoo Conditioning Polymer E F,g 3 Confocal LHIM Su,nnrng Microscopy Ren.tt•d L..,t lmaoH of BM.ached Europ•an Med1um Brown Hair aft•r Sriampoo Tre,1bnan1 Condi1ton1ng Polymer F G F1v 5 Conlo,cal Uaar Sunning M1cros.copy Fluorescent• lmav•• ol Ble-.ae.Md EuroJW•n Medium Brown Ma,r aNll!r Pclymu •nd S..FAM TrHtmerit Concu1,on,ng Polyme-r 127