SKIN-LIGHTENING COSMETIC INGREDIENTS 51 dermatologist assessment. Also, other skin parameters such as moisturization, texture, barrier integrity, pH, etc, are being evaluated to give picture of skin health after the use of skin-lightening agents. This leads to screening the potentially harmful side effects of hydroquinone-like substances in addition to the high-value claim proposition for the cos- metics industry. With advances in technology in measurement techniques, it is becoming easier to identify the effi cacy of formulations in different skin types. CONCLUSION Research in the area of skin-lightening agents in an expanding fi eld, with new ingre- dients being added to the repertoire with every new discovery. Although tyrosinase inhibition is still the most sought after mechanism skin lightening, newer pathways are being identifi ed. It has been noted that ingredients that interfere with the path- ways affecting melanin synthesis and transfer show promise as depigmenting agents. Persistent research into skin lightening has also led to new mechanisms being discov- ered in recent years. The aspiration for light skin is on an upward curve and can be satisfi ed only when the cosmetic in the bottle fulfi ls the promise of fair skin. A careful and complete investiga- tion of the ingredient on the basis of its effi cacy and tolerance to individuals through clinical trails is essential to ascertain that the product delivers the promise. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS We thank Dr. Yash Kamath for reviewing the manuscript. Thanks are also due to Dr. Usha Ranganathan and Dr. Lakshmi Madhavi for their help in the preparation of the manuscript. REFERENCES (1) E. N. Glenn, Yearning for lightness, Gender & Society, 22(3), 281–302 (2008). (2) P. H. Eric, H. J. Li, R. W. Min, J. Belk, S. Kimura, and S. Bahl, Skin lightening and beauty in four Asian cultures, Adv. Consumer Res., 135, 444–449 (2008). (3) A. Gupta, M. Gover, K. Nouri, and S. Taylor, The treatment of melasma: A review of clinical trials, J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 55, 1048–1065 (2006). (4) E. Berardesca, M. Ardigò, M. Berardesca, and N. Cameli, Melasma: Current and future treatments, Expert Rev. Dermatol., 3(2), 187–193 (2008). (5) A. E. Reszko, D. Berson, and M. P. Lupo, Cosmeceuticals: Practical applications, Dermatologic Clinics, 27, 401–416 (2009). (6) T. Kono, W. F. Groff, H. Sakurai, M. Takeuchi, T. Yamaki, K. Soejima, and M. Nozaki, Comparison study of intense pulsed light versus a long-pulse pulsed dye laser in the treatment of facial skin rejuve- nation, Ann. Plastic Surg., 59, 479–483 (2007). (7) T. Hakozaki, T. Hirotsugu, M. Kukizo, Y. Sato, and S. Arase, Ultrasound enhanced skin-lightening effect of vitamin C and niacinamide, Skin Res. Technol., 12, 105–113 (2006). (8) B. Green, R. Yu, and E. Van Scott, Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids, Clinics Dermatol., 27, 495–501 (2009). (9) E. Clark and L. Scerri, Superfi cial and medium-depth chemical peels, Clinics Dermatol., 26, 209–218 (2008). (10) L. Petit and G. E. Pierard, Skin lightening products revisited, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci, 25, 169–181 (2003).
JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 52 (11) T. Todokora, N. Kobayashi, B. Z. Zmudzka, S. Ito, K. Wakamtsu, Y. Yamaguchi, K. S. Korossy, S. A. Miller, J. Z. Beer, and V. J. Hearing, UV-induced DNA damage and melanin content in human skin differing in racial/ethnic origin, FASEB J., 17, 1177–1179 (2003). (12) Y. Yamaguchi, M. Brenner, and V. J. Hearing, The regulation of skin pigmentation, J. Biol. Chem., 282(38), 27557–27561 (2007). (13) M. S. Eller and B. A. Gilchrest, Tanning as part of the eukaryotic SOS response, Pigment Cell. Res., 13, 94–97 (2000). (14) B. A. Gilchrest, H. Y. Park, M. S. Eller, and M. Yaar, Mechanisms of ultraviolet induced pigmentation, Photochem. Photobiol., 63, 1–10 (1996). (15) S. G. Coelho, Y. Zhou, H. F. Bushar, S. A. Miller, B. Z. Zmudzka, V. J. Hearing, and J. Z. Beer, Long- lasting pigmentation of human skin, a new look at an overlooked response to UV, Pigment Cell Melanoma Res., 22, 238–241 (2009). (16) F. Soalno, S. Briganti, M. Picardo, and G. Ghanem, Hypopigmenting agents: An updated review on biological, chemical and clinical aspects, Pigment Cell. Res., 19, 550–571 (2006). (17) P. S. Kang, H. S. M. Chung, C. Cho, M. C. Hong, M. K. Shin, and H. Bae, Survey and mechanism of skin depigmenting and lightening agents, Phytother. Res., 20, 921–934 (2006). (18) H. S. Raper, The anaerobic oxidases, Physiol. Rev., 8, 245–282 (1928). (19) H. S. Mason, The chemistry of melanin. III. Mechanism of the oxidation of trihydroxy phenylalanine by tyrosinase, J. Biol. Chem., 172, 83–99 (1948). (20) T. B. Fitzpatrick, E. Calkins, and W. H. Summerson, Mammalian tyrosinase—Preparation and properties, J. Biol. Chem., 178, 185–189 (1949). (21) A. Palumbo, M. d’Ischia, and G. Misuraca, Mechanism of inhibition of melanogenesis by hydroqui- none, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 1073, 85–90 (1991). (22) O. H. Mills. Jr. and A. M. Kligman, Further experience with a topical cream for depigmenting human skin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem, 29, 147–154 (1978). (23) J. Yukitake, H. Otake, S. Inoue, K. Wakamatsu, C. Olivares, F. Solano, K. Hasegawa, and S. Ito, Syn- thesis and selective in vitro anti-melanoma effect of enantiomeric (alpha)-methyl- and (alpha)-ethyl -4-S-cysteaminyl phenol, Melanoma Res., 13, 603–609 (2003). (24) T. Yamamura, J. Onishi, and T. Nishiyama, Anti-melanogenic activity of hydrocoumarins in cultured human melanocytes by stimulating intra cellular glutathione synthesis, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 294, 349–354 (2002). (25) S. Khatib, O. Nerya, R. Musa, M. Shmuel, S. Tamir, and J. Vaya, Chalcones as potent inhibitors: The importance of a 2,4- substituted resorcinol moiety, Bioorg. Med. Chem., 13, 433–441 (2005). (26) O. Nerya, R. Musa, S. Khatib, S. Tamir, and J. Vaya, Chalcones as potent tyrosinase inhibitors: The effect of hydroxyl positions and numbers, Phytochemistry, 65, 1389–1395 (2004). (27) Y. M. Kim, J. Yun, C. K. Lee, H. Lee, K. R. Min, and Y. Kim, Oxyresveratrol and hydroxy stillbene compounds, J. Biol. Chem, 277, 16340–16344 (2002). (28) K. I. Nihei, Y. Yamagiwa, T. Kamikawab, and I. Kubo, 2-Hydroxy-4-isopropylbenzaldehyde, a potent partial tyrosinase inhibitor, Bioorg. Med. Lett, 14, 681–683 (2004). (29) I. Kubo and I. Kinst-Hori, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy benzaldehyde: A potent tyrosinase inhibitor from African medicinal plants, Planta Med., 65, 19–22 (1999). (30) Y. J. Kim, J. K. No, J. H. Lee., and H. Y. Chung, 4,4’-Dihydroxybiphenyl as a new potent tyrosinase inhibitor, Biol. Pharm. Bull., 28, 323–327 (2005). (31) K. Nakamura, M. Yoshida, H. Uchiwa, Y. Kawa, and M. Mizoguchi, Down regulation of melanin syn- thesis by a diphenyl derivative and its mechanism, Pigment Cell. Res., 16, 494–500 (2003). (32) T. S. Chang, H. Y. Ding, and H. C. Lin, Identifying 6,7,4’-trihydroxyisofl avone as a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, Biosci. Biotech. Biochem., 69, 1999–2001 (2005). (33) D. Kim, J. Park, J. Kim, C. Han, J. Yoon, N. Kim, J. Seo, and C. Lee, Flavanoids as mushroom tyrosi- nase inhibitors: A fl uorescent quenching study, J. Agric. Food. Chem, 54, 935–941 (2006). (34) V. M. Verallo-Rowell, V. Verallo, K. Graupe, L. Lopez-Villafuerte, and M. Garcia-Lopez, Double-blind comparison of azelaic acid and hydroquinone in the treatment of melasma., Acta Derm. Venereol. Suppl. (Stockh.), 143, 58–61 (1989). (35) S. Briganti, E. Camera, and M. Picardo, Chemical and instrumental approaches to treat hyperpigmenta- tion, Pigment Cell. Res., 16, 101–110 (2003). (36) A. Palumbo, M. d’Ischia, and G. Misuraca, Mechanism of inhibition of melanogenesis by hydroqui- none, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 1073, 85–90 (1991). (37) M. D. Njoo, W. Westerhof, J. D. Bos, and P. M. Bossuyt, The development of guidelines for vitiligo, Arch. Dermatol., 135, 1514–1521 (1999).
Previous Page Next Page