COMPARISON OF EMULSIONS IN THE CARE OF DEMANDING AND ATOPIC SKINS 415 law. Two sensors (thermometer and hygrometer) were placed in the open chamber of the measuring probe collect data from the density gradient of the water evaporation. The measurements were performed under standard conditions of temperature and hu- midity (T°C = 20°–22°C, humidity 40–60%), away from direct sunlight. A control point was pure skin without any preparation. The test included measurements per- formed immediately after 30 min, 60 min, and 120 min of application of the product (~0.01 g) on forearm skin fragments. Ten women participated in the test, with no special symptoms of atopic skin but having dry and sensitive skin because of the fact that presented own preparation was model emulsion. Research was conducted by a trained person. To have valid results, the measurement was performed in triplicate. To obtain the results of TEWL percentage difference, the following formula was used: 0 % 0 (TEWL TEWL ) TEWL TEWL % q100% t ΔTEWL%—transepidermal water loss percentage difference (%), TEWLt—transepidermal water loss after t (g/h/m2), and TEWL0—transepidermal water loss of the control point (g/h/m2). The results are presented as a mean value of TEWL percentage difference for all the re- spondents after t for each commercial product and the authors’ formulation. SENSORY EVALUATION The sensory parameters evaluation was conducted by nine previously trained volunteers— students at Kazimierz Pulaski University in Radom, Poland, using a 5-point scoring scale (0—lowest and 5—highest). The volunteers were asked to fi ll in a questionnaire assessing the sensory attributes of the tested products, without knowledge about evalu- ated product type. The acceptability of 10 commercial products and our own prepara- tion was assessed in constant and proper laboratory conditions. Sensory attributes were evaluated between two fi ngers or when applied on the forearm skin, using a 5-point scoring scale (0—lowest and 5—highest). The products were evaluated for the follow- ing sensory characteristics: consistency (density and cohesion of the product), homoge- neity (absence of clots or air bubbles), cushion effect (palpability of the product when rubbed between two fi ngers), distribution (ease of spreadability on the skin), smooth- ing (smoothing effect on the skin), stickiness (degree of palpable viscosity left on the skin), greasiness (the greasy feel perceived after product application), absorption (the moment when the product is no longer felt on the skin), color, and odor. The detailed procedure and questionnaire with instructions of the sensory evaluation are described in (13). STATISTICS Statistics were performed using Excel software (Microsoft Inc., Redmond, WA).

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 416 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION ANALYSIS OF THE COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS’ COMPOSITION A signifi cant diversity was observed when analyzing the composition of common drug- store products for AD skin care. Cream (C1) contained most of the synthetic components (Table II). Evening primrose oil is the only natural emollient. It should be mentioned that this preparation contained oat extract, which has a signifi cant role in AD therapy. It has soothing anti-infl ammatory effect, strengthens the epidermal barrier, and primarily has antipruritical properties (14,15). Balm (B1) formula (Table II) also consists mostly of synthetic components. Mineral oil and a mixture of lauric acid and sorbitan esters are its basic ingredients. The usage of the latter in the formulation is a result of its good stabilizing, emulsifying, or solubilizing properties (16). A polyethylene glycol present in B1 is a moisturizing and water-binding polymer (17). Niacinamide is well known for its anti-infl ammatory properties (18). Shea butter, glycerin, and tocopherol have positive effects on skin condition (19). The main components of cream (C2) are water, hemp oil, and petrolatum (Table II). This is the only formulation containing hemp oil. Rich in essential unsaturated fatty acids, hemp oil applied on the skin reconstructs defects of the natural lipid barrier and has an anti-infl ammatory effect (20). Other anti-infl ammatory components are present in this formulation (bisabolol and allantoin), although in lower amounts (21). Balm (B2) (Table II) contains comparable amounts of natural and synthetic ingredients. Components alike hemp oil, glycerol, shea butter, and urea have moisturizing, nourish- ing, and occlusive properties. Moreover, urea is responsible for the regulation of the kera- tinization process (20,21). Lanolin, natural animal wax, was used as an emulsifi er. Xanthan gum, a natural polysaccharide, is responsible for consistency and rheology of the product. As aforementioned, bisabolol and allantoin show anti-infl ammatory and soothing effects. In the authors’ opinion, Vaseline, which is a mixture of synthetic hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum and attributed with comedogenic action, is an adverse ingredient. Vaseline inhibits excretion of sweat and sebum (22). Sodium hydroxide and phenoxyethanol belong to substances which may cause skin irritation (23). In general, sodium hydroxide is respon- sible for maintaining the correct cosmetic pH, whereas phenoxyethanol microbiologically secures the product (24). The cream (C3) can be distinguished by ingredients having a broad spectrum of activity (Table II). Natural components characterized by forming a protective fi lm on the skin (Macadamia ternifolia seed oil and shea butter) are dominant. Synthetic origin compo- nents (paraffi num liquidum, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, and ethylhexylglyc- erin) support the greasing effect. In this formulation, substances such as glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, polyethylene glycol, and hydroxyethyl urea have strong moisturizing and water-binding properties. A component like lactic acid has exfoliating effect and regu- lates the keratinization process. The presence of vitamins E (tocopherol) and C (ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate) in the preparation inhibits the oxidation processes of the labile compounds found in the cream. Occurrence of synthetic substances, that is, phenoxy- ethanol and edetate disodium (EDTA), in the cream may contribute to skin irritation (25). Balm (B3) and cream (C3) contain a natural ingredient—Macadamia ternifolia seed oil. Most of the remaining ingredients in the balm are of synthetic origin. From the moisturization