COMPARISON OF EMULSIONS IN THE CARE OF DEMANDING AND ATOPIC SKINS 417 Table II Composition of Commercial Products Used in AD Preparation/INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) composition C1 B1 Water (aqua), mineral oil (paraffi num liquidum), Peg-12, glycerin, cyclopentasiloxane, glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil, myreth-3 myristate, polyacrylamide, niacinamide, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, Avena sativa (oat) leaf/stem extract, BHT, (Butylated hydroxytoluene) C13-14 isoparaffi n, disodium EDTA, laureth-7, sodium acetate, and tocopherol Water (aqua), mineral oil (paraffi num liquidum), Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), glycerin, polysorbate 60, cetearyl alcohol, dimethicone, Peg-12, oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil, butylene glycol, squalane, niacinamide, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid, Avena sativa (oat) leaf/stem extract, BHT, C13-14 isoparaffi n, cetearyl glucoside, disodium EDTA, laureth-7, maltodextrin, polyacrylamide, sodium acetate, and tocopherol C2 B2 Aqua, Cannabis sativa seed oil, petrolatum, glycerine, cetearyl alcohol, stearic and palmitic acid, dimeticone, glyceryl stearate, Peg-12, phenoxyethanol, tocoferol acetate, magnesium oxide, dehydroacetic acid, silica, allantoin, and bisabolol Aqua, Cannabis sativa seed oil, glycerine, cetearyl alcohol, Vaselinum album, glyceryl stearate, polysorbate-60, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), dimeticone, urea, phenoxyethanol, tocoferol acetate, adeps lanae, acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, ascorbyl palmitate, allantoin, bisabolol, dehydroacetic acid, xanthan gum, sodium hydroxide, and parfum C3 B3 Aqua, paraffi num liquidum, cetearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), caprylic/capric triglyceride, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, methylpropanediol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea, polysorbate 60, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, biosaccharide gum-1, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, stearic acid, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, lactic acid, disodium EDTA, Peg-8, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and citric acid Aqua, paraffi num liquidum, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, methylpropanediol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea, polysorbate 60, biosaccharide gum-1, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, allantoin, stearic acid, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, Peg-8, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and citric acid C4 B4 Aqua, ethylhexyl stearate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, cetearyl alcohol, dicaprylyl carbonate, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, glyceryl stearate citrate, Perilla ocymoides seed oil, squalane, lecithin, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, palm kernel glycerides, ceramide NP (ceramide 3), behenyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, glyceryl caprylate, allantoin, xanthan gum, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and parfum Aqua, llycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, myristyl myristate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, glyceryl stearate, palmitic acid, coco-caprylate/ caprate, Persea gratissima oil, betaine, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, glyceryl caprylate, Oenothera biennis oil, tocopherol, Perilla ocymoides seed oil, panthenol, tocopheryl acetate, palm kernel glycerides, squalane, behenyl alcohol, allantoin, stearic acid, lecithin, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, hydroxyacetophenone, myristyl alcohol, ceramide NP, xanthan gum, disodium phosphate, citric acid, and parfum

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 418 point of view, sodium hyaluronate, which is a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid naturally present in the skin, is an important component. Besides the moisturizing properties, it is responsible for skin elasticity (26). Disodium EDTA, PEG-8 (Polyethylene Glycol), and phenoxyethanol are seen as potential allergens (25,27) (Table II). Analyzing the composition of (C4) cream, it should be mentioned that this preparation contains the highest quantity of different emollients when compared with the remaining formulations (Table II). According to the producer, this cream is called as “barrier cream,” thus suggesting a primary occlusion effect. However, the use of excessive amounts of fi lm-forming ingredients can be comedogenic and lead to effl orescence of the skin. Water, ethylhexyl stearate and dicaprylyl carbonate (vegetable origin), shea butter, and cetearyl alcohol (derived from palm and coconut oil) are the predominant components in (C4) formulation. These ingredients are natural substances that do not constitute a threat to the atopic skin. Rare and distinctive ingredients in this cosmetic are the Perilla ocymoi- des seed oil and Adansonia digitata seed oil. The former has antimicrobial activity and anti-infl ammatory properties (28). The latter shows high penetrability and nourishing properties (29). Parfum was identifi ed as a controversial component which can be an allergen (30). Persea gratissima oil (avocado oil), lecithin, panthenol, palm kernel glycerides, Prunus amyg- dalus dulcis oil (sweet almond oil), betaine, and ceramide are the components of balm (B4) (Table II). These substances have benefi cial properties for the skin. The rebuilding of the lipid barrier of the skin occurs because of palm kernel glycerides, avocado oil, and ceramides. Lecithin is responsible for proper stabilization and emulsifi cation of the emul- sion. Panthenol soothes skin irritations. Betaine strongly moisturizes and also binds wa- ter in the skin. This formulation also contains components with hydroxyl group. Some of them are not always seen as benefi cial skin-interacting compounds. For example, lauryl alcohol may be comedogenic and behenyl alcohol can cause allergy (31,32). The presence of parfum in preparations for atopic skin, according to the authors (30), may also adversely affect the skin, that is, cause allergy. Cream (C5) is characterized by the lowest amount of ingredients present in the formula- tion (Table II). These are mostly synthetic components. The predominant ingredients in the cream are water, glycerin, and mineral oil. The unique component in the formulation is evening primrose oil, which has anti-infl ammatory effects, accelerates wound healing, and restores a defective skin barrier (14). Preparation/INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) composition C5 B5 Avene thermal spring water (avene aqua), glycerin, mineral oil (paraffi num liquidum), Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil, caprylic/ capric triglyceride, evening primrose oil/palm oil aminopropanediol esters, Aquaphilus dolomiae extract, arginine, glycine, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, carbomer, and sodium hydroxide Avene thermal spring water (avene aqua), glycerin, mineral oil (paraffi num liquidum), Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, evening primrose oll/palm oil aminopropanediol esters, Aquaphilus dolomiae extract, arginine, glycine, Peg-12, glyceryl stearate, myreth-3 myristate, Peg-100 stearate, polyacrylate-13, citric acid, polyisobutene, polysorbate 20, sodium acetate, and sorbitan isostearate Table II Continued