JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 416 RESULTS AND DISCUSSION ANALYSIS OF THE COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS’ COMPOSITION A signifi cant diversity was observed when analyzing the composition of common drug- store products for AD skin care. Cream (C1) contained most of the synthetic components (Table II). Evening primrose oil is the only natural emollient. It should be mentioned that this preparation contained oat extract, which has a signifi cant role in AD therapy. It has soothing anti-infl ammatory effect, strengthens the epidermal barrier, and primarily has antipruritical properties (14,15). Balm (B1) formula (Table II) also consists mostly of synthetic components. Mineral oil and a mixture of lauric acid and sorbitan esters are its basic ingredients. The usage of the latter in the formulation is a result of its good stabilizing, emulsifying, or solubilizing properties (16). A polyethylene glycol present in B1 is a moisturizing and water-binding polymer (17). Niacinamide is well known for its anti-infl ammatory properties (18). Shea butter, glycerin, and tocopherol have positive effects on skin condition (19). The main components of cream (C2) are water, hemp oil, and petrolatum (Table II). This is the only formulation containing hemp oil. Rich in essential unsaturated fatty acids, hemp oil applied on the skin reconstructs defects of the natural lipid barrier and has an anti-infl ammatory effect (20). Other anti-infl ammatory components are present in this formulation (bisabolol and allantoin), although in lower amounts (21). Balm (B2) (Table II) contains comparable amounts of natural and synthetic ingredients. Components alike hemp oil, glycerol, shea butter, and urea have moisturizing, nourish- ing, and occlusive properties. Moreover, urea is responsible for the regulation of the kera- tinization process (20,21). Lanolin, natural animal wax, was used as an emulsifi er. Xanthan gum, a natural polysaccharide, is responsible for consistency and rheology of the product. As aforementioned, bisabolol and allantoin show anti-infl ammatory and soothing effects. In the authors’ opinion, Vaseline, which is a mixture of synthetic hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum and attributed with comedogenic action, is an adverse ingredient. Vaseline inhibits excretion of sweat and sebum (22). Sodium hydroxide and phenoxyethanol belong to substances which may cause skin irritation (23). In general, sodium hydroxide is respon- sible for maintaining the correct cosmetic pH, whereas phenoxyethanol microbiologically secures the product (24). The cream (C3) can be distinguished by ingredients having a broad spectrum of activity (Table II). Natural components characterized by forming a protective fi lm on the skin (Macadamia ternifolia seed oil and shea butter) are dominant. Synthetic origin compo- nents (paraffi num liquidum, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, and ethylhexylglyc- erin) support the greasing effect. In this formulation, substances such as glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, polyethylene glycol, and hydroxyethyl urea have strong moisturizing and water-binding properties. A component like lactic acid has exfoliating effect and regu- lates the keratinization process. The presence of vitamins E (tocopherol) and C (ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate) in the preparation inhibits the oxidation processes of the labile compounds found in the cream. Occurrence of synthetic substances, that is, phenoxy- ethanol and edetate disodium (EDTA), in the cream may contribute to skin irritation (25). Balm (B3) and cream (C3) contain a natural ingredient—Macadamia ternifolia seed oil. Most of the remaining ingredients in the balm are of synthetic origin. From the moisturization

COMPARISON OF EMULSIONS IN THE CARE OF DEMANDING AND ATOPIC SKINS 417 Table II Composition of Commercial Products Used in AD Preparation/INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) composition C1 B1 Water (aqua), mineral oil (paraffi num liquidum), Peg-12, glycerin, cyclopentasiloxane, glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil, myreth-3 myristate, polyacrylamide, niacinamide, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, Avena sativa (oat) leaf/stem extract, BHT, (Butylated hydroxytoluene) C13-14 isoparaffi n, disodium EDTA, laureth-7, sodium acetate, and tocopherol Water (aqua), mineral oil (paraffi num liquidum), Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), glycerin, polysorbate 60, cetearyl alcohol, dimethicone, Peg-12, oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil, butylene glycol, squalane, niacinamide, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid, Avena sativa (oat) leaf/stem extract, BHT, C13-14 isoparaffi n, cetearyl glucoside, disodium EDTA, laureth-7, maltodextrin, polyacrylamide, sodium acetate, and tocopherol C2 B2 Aqua, Cannabis sativa seed oil, petrolatum, glycerine, cetearyl alcohol, stearic and palmitic acid, dimeticone, glyceryl stearate, Peg-12, phenoxyethanol, tocoferol acetate, magnesium oxide, dehydroacetic acid, silica, allantoin, and bisabolol Aqua, Cannabis sativa seed oil, glycerine, cetearyl alcohol, Vaselinum album, glyceryl stearate, polysorbate-60, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), dimeticone, urea, phenoxyethanol, tocoferol acetate, adeps lanae, acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, ascorbyl palmitate, allantoin, bisabolol, dehydroacetic acid, xanthan gum, sodium hydroxide, and parfum C3 B3 Aqua, paraffi num liquidum, cetearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), caprylic/capric triglyceride, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, methylpropanediol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea, polysorbate 60, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, biosaccharide gum-1, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, stearic acid, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, lactic acid, disodium EDTA, Peg-8, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and citric acid Aqua, paraffi num liquidum, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, methylpropanediol, glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea, polysorbate 60, biosaccharide gum-1, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate, allantoin, stearic acid, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate, disodium EDTA, Peg-8, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and citric acid C4 B4 Aqua, ethylhexyl stearate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, cetearyl alcohol, dicaprylyl carbonate, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Oenothera biennis oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, glyceryl stearate citrate, Perilla ocymoides seed oil, squalane, lecithin, tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, palm kernel glycerides, ceramide NP (ceramide 3), behenyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, glyceryl caprylate, allantoin, xanthan gum, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and parfum Aqua, llycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, myristyl myristate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, glyceryl stearate, palmitic acid, coco-caprylate/ caprate, Persea gratissima oil, betaine, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, glyceryl caprylate, Oenothera biennis oil, tocopherol, Perilla ocymoides seed oil, panthenol, tocopheryl acetate, palm kernel glycerides, squalane, behenyl alcohol, allantoin, stearic acid, lecithin, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, hydroxyacetophenone, myristyl alcohol, ceramide NP, xanthan gum, disodium phosphate, citric acid, and parfum