IS YOUR PRODUCT EFFECTIVE? 273 conduct of the forementioned ex- periment, as well as other similarly conducted experiments, supplied data on the anticaries' effectiveness of dentifrices. The resulting inform- ation could not help but be of decided value to the consumer, dental and medical professions, the manufacturers of dentifrices, and the scientists concerned with dentifrices. Similar comments could be made about the effectiveness of dentifrices in controlling objectionable mouth odors, combating common gum troubles, and cleansing teeth. The performance of carefully considered tests has revealed in- formation on the effectiveness of dentifrices in these various con- ditions and, as a result, each day, even the most critical dental scien- tists are becoming convinced that dentifrices serve a far more useful function than simply supplying a pleasant flavor. And, equally important, because of the promising results, research work has been markedly stimulated so that even better, more effective products have been, and are being, developed. In this desirable sequence of events, you can see the advantage to the consumer, manufacturer, and health professions. With this thought as the back- ground, I would like to submit, respectfully, and this is the theme of this talk, that every cosmetic chemist should give serious con- sideration to a testing program to determine the effectiveness of the cosmetics with which he is con- cerned. I believe that such in- vestigations, as in the dentifrice field, can yield information of de- cided interest and importance to the consumer, health professions, cosmetic industry, and the com- panies involved in the manufacture of the cosmetics. This must be so because some of the desirable prop- erties of cosmetics cannot be sufFi- ciently known because of inadequate or the complete absence of effective- ness evaluation data. It is obvious that a recommenda- tion to initiate an investigation, without including a specific field for experimentation, is not as val- uable as one pointing out methods or fields of approach. The field of approach and methods to be used must be left to your discretion, because, each of you must know more about your own products than one not engaged in your fields. To many scientists, particularly those not familiar with the intimate properties of cosmetics, cosmetics are beautifying and protective, and do not serve any additional useful purpose. This is particularly true when one is thinking about someone else's product. When you work with a given cosmetic, and only when you crit- ically study the cosmetic and its use, can you develop the field of approach. When you do, you will find so much to look into, that selection of one or more of many fields will be your problem rather than trying to find a worth-while project. As in all other phases of endeavor, whether or not your studies will be
274 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS productive depends, to a large ex- tent, on you, the one who estab- lishes the basis for the study. Even one with a distant ex- perience with cold creams, cleansing creams, astringent creams and lo- tions recognizes that the effects of these products in the prevention or mitigation of skin disturbances would be worthy of note. Con- sideration of "dry" and "oily" skins would follow necessarily. Such studies require the assistance of competent biologists, patholo- gists, and dermatologists in addi- tion to skilled chemists. The se- lection of personnel for the study is as much a part of the study as the plan of the study itself. Success in a study depends on a thorough recognition of a multi- rude of factors. Some examples along these lines will be helpful in demonstrating the significance of this point. Before citing examples, it is perhaps advisable to mention that the safety of a product is one of the first considerations. Having established safety, effectiveness con- siderations follow. In considering effectiveness, it will be of interest to inject a little of the philosophy of Maimonides. Years ago, this philosopher pointed out that there are four causes which prevent men from discovering the exact truth. First, arrogancy and vainglory second, the subtlety, depth, and difficulty of any subject which is being examined third, ignorance and want of capacity to comprehend and fourth, habit and training. There is little reason to elaborate on the first three causes. A few words about the fourth cause may be appropriate. We like what is familiar and dis- like what is strange. This applies to opinions which are based on what a man has been accustomed to from his youth. He likes certain things, defends them and shuns views in opposition to these items. This characteristic is one of the causes which prevents men from finding truth and which makes them cling to their habitual opinions. Needless to say, the conclusions which you reach in your study should be based on the results of the study and none of the four causes mentioned above should be permitted to enter into the deter- ruination of the conclusion. In considering cosmetics, I be- lieve it is worth while to note that from a cosmetic chemist's point of view, there is no simple cosmetic. Every product developed requires comprehensive study in its formu- lation, proof of safety, and effective- ness considerations. At this point, let us review a few examples of effectiveness evalua- tion studies with the objective to emphasize the importance of care- ful consideration of the plan of study, review of the procedures actually used, and the importance of drawing valid conclusions based on the study as actually conducted. Recent comprehensive studies have revealed beneficial anticaries effects for fluorides when applied topically. In a recent attempt to
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