78 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS The literature on this subject contains a number of interesting ref- erences. Both allantoin and derivatives of hydantoin have been used as healing agents. Also remarkable is the stimulating action produced by these chemicals in the growth of healthy tissue and the solvent action on necrotic tissue. You will find that the initial research on the amino acid and protein cosmetic field was carried out by the French School, followed by the Italian School which recently has been conducting research work in this field. Essentially, amino cosmetics in their cutaneous action closely follow the principle on which is based what we call "isodermia" which considers the biochemical and physical-chemical properties of the skin in relation to the absorption of compositions of mixtures to be absorbed by the skin. More specifically, amino cosmetics bring a special contribution to what we call "istofilia " the necessary affinity ,which must exist between cos- metic raw materials and physiological and constituent properties of tissues. The protein balance is of fundamental importance for the skin, not only in tissue growth, in production of specific proteins, hormones, enzymes, but also for the close relationship existing, for example, between lack of proteins and cutaneous dehydration, between lack of lipoproteins and dry skin and between a well-nourished skin and a healthy skin. Like all proteins which constitute living matter, cutaneous proteins as well are not static but dynamic structures in continuous evolution and readjustment of the constituent amino acids. And as in alimentation an indispensable minimum of proteins is necessary for sustenance, for the growth and for the energy expenditure, in order to compensate the daily consumption of amino acids, in the same way amino acid cosmetics represent an exogenous nourishment of the skin and an outside provision of nitrogenous substances needed to maintain and inte- grate its normal protein balance. Treatments and beauty products which are intended to effectively "nourish" the skin cannot obviously disregard (as mainly happens today) the nitrogenous component it is for this reason that they have to aim at a balanced composition. Albert Fisher's studies (2) which are of fundamental importance, have demonstrated that the tissue cells are unable to demolish the blood plasma protein, while directly utilizing the amino acids for the synthesis of albu- minolds necessary to create cytoplasm. The use o'f the essential amino acids as predigested foods administered both parenterally and internally has long been successful in healing and substitution therapy. In dermatology a new use has been discovered. It is well known that amino acids, both in their biological complex and

USE IN COSMETICS OF FURYLGLYCINE 79 isolated forms, applied locally or otherwise, do activate the cutaneous "nourishing" process, favoring granulation and healing. EXPERIMENTAL Chemical Initially we have tried to synthesize furylglycine according to the classical Streker synthesis. The reaction takes place in two fundamental phases: by the action of ammonia, ammonium chloride, potassium cyanide with a ketone or an aidehyde (in this case furrural), one can obtain the formation of the cor- responding amino nitrile which by successive hydrolysis forms the cor- responding amino acid. However, from the very beginning of the first phase, instead of the amino nitrile we have obtained some black resins. Therefore, we had to adopt various modifications, such as working with a 50 per cent hydro-alcoholic solution trying different emulsifiers in nitrogen atmosphere and finally at low temperature, but always with unsuccessful results. We have now adopted the method of synthesis suggested by Harvill and Herbst (4) and by Henze and Speer (5) which consists initially in the synthesis of Biickerer for the preparation of the hydantoins from aldehydes or ketones and successive opening and degradation of the nucleus with formation of the amino acid. We have reacted 0.02 moles of furfural with 0.08 moles of ammonium carbonate and 0.04 moles of potassium cyanide in 50 cc. of 50 per cent alcoholic solution. The mixture is heated for about two hours at 58 ø to 60øC., and then the solution is concentrated to two-thirds of the initial volume. After the acidification with hydrochloric acid, the 5-furylhydantoin is crystallized in an ice-bath. The product has a melting point of 147øC., and is obtained in a yield of 65 per cent. The furylglycine is obtained by hydrolysis of 5-furylhydantoin and by means of concentrated solution of barium hydroxide. The melting point is 212 ø to 213øC., with decomposition. The yield is 52 per cent. The reaction scheme is the following: KCN Ba(OH)2 O O COOH Cosmetic. The two referred chemicals have been tested in a facial mask on one-half of the face with the other half used as the control. Then general cosmetic formulas were made as follows: the 5-furyl- hydantoin, which is partially liposoluble, has been previously dissolved in oleyl alcohol the furylglycine, definitely hydrosoluble, is dissolved