612 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS •.•%.... •. " •.'• i':? ._• •.:::, 7. ":•, •:.-, ?-... %'? .. •:.' . .-:" -',•' .•::'•.. ... ..).:. ..... ..'•*'..: . ...- .... u. i::" '•., •.:.. •.•::.•: •. :%½%?" .. .... ::,d'•'--.½•.. ':,.'"::':':': " .,• ß ... '• .... . ,:.-:: ¾:::. • •:: .... :..:--- ..- .... .½:•.•/•:. • ,.•,•:• ":•:?.•.:•:•i -%...-• ...• ..' :. '-'•:-:-:• Figure 1. Dual-recording transpiration analyzer as designed by Slegers and Dobson (23) perature of 20øC and RH of 50 per cent or less so as not to demonstrate significant eccrine sweating. Those panelists, who are not stabilized after this period, are eliminated from testing that day. Upper forearms and the calves of the lower legs of 12 panelists of both sexes were examined, with one site serving as an untreated control and a contralateral site being used for the tests. Occlusion of the skin for 5 rain with a water-saturated gauze patch followed by tissue blotting of the excess water produces an initial 20 to 40 per .cent increase in water loss, which decreases steadily over a 30-60 min period to the level of transpiration on the opposite side. Similar application and blotting of a commercial emollient cream re- verses this trend, giving a 20 per cent decrease in transpired water after i h and about a 10 per cent decrease after 4 to 6 h. We interpret these results with an emollient cream as indicative of tem- porary retardation of water loss afforded by an oil barrier. Once the dry corncure imbibes moisture from lower living cell layers and attains a ne•v equilibrium water content, the temporary effect of the diffusional barrier of the cream is slowly overcome, and the original transpiration rate is reestab- lighed. The effect of the barrier cream is then to raise the moisture concentra- tion within the dead cells without effecting the final equilibrium transpiration rate too much.

ASSESSMENT OF SKIN MOISTURIZATION 6•3 Figure 2. Photographic apparatus for producing low magnification prints B. Low Magnification Photography Low magnification photography of skin sites before and at specific in•tervals after treatment provides a rapid subjective means of evaluating the moisturiz- ing potency of emollient creams. Kodacolor II© (ASA 80) film* and a Ricoh© 35 mm reflex cameraP with a 55 mm lens and extension tube system give a final magnification of 3.5-fold. The front of the ,lens is equipped with a gridded disc fixed onto 95 mm spacing bars. This system allows the correct focus to be obtained for an area of 33 x 23 mm•with minimal readjustment (Fig. 2). A camera aperture of f16 gives optimal exposure and depth of field at 3•0 of a second. Two strobe heads (7100 ecps) .on a Graflex 500• flash unit* are fixed to the camera so as to be set 220 mm from the photographic site at an angle of 25 ø above the plane of the skin. To minimize glare, polariz- ing filters are placed over the strobe heads and oriented perpendicular to a polarizing filter placed over the camera lens. A panel of three independent judges evaluates the photographs based on the level of white lines and flakes discernible in these pictures (Fig. 3). A rat- ing scale (from 6 equals no white margins nor scales to 0 equals ordy white margins and many lifted scales) is utilized by the assessors. This rating scheme is similar, but opposite in value to that described by Gibson (22) and Middleton (6). The major advantage of our technique is to provide an ex• tremely helpful low magnification (3.5 X) of each site studied (Fig. 3).' *Eastman Kodak Co.,Rochester, i•IY 14650. •Braun North America, Cambridge, MA 02141. *The Singer Co., Graphics Systems Division, San Leandro, CA 94577.