322 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Cosmetic ingredient safety Urocanic acid, 151 Cosmetic preservation Method, 62 Cosmetic preservatives Frequency, 67 C12-13 Pareth-3 Physical properties, 61 Critical micelie concentration Skin irritation, 253 Dandruff Treatment, 117 Desiccation Preservation, 66 Detergent bars Skin properties, 219 Dihydrogenated Tallowdimonium Chloride Skin irritation, 307 5,6-Dihydroxyindole Hair dyes, 133 3,4-Dihydroxyphenylaniline, see DOPA 6,6-Dimethylbicyclo[3.1.0]hexane Synthesis, 107 DOPA (3,4-dihydroxyphenylaniline) Hair dyes, 133 Dyed hair Sunlight, 79 Echogenicity Method, 243 Skin hydration, 243 Econazole nitrate Antidandruff shampoos, 117 Emulsions AHA, 55 Mechanism, 74 Emulsions (O/W) Mechanism, 74 Epidermal barrier Cigarette smoke exposed skin, 235 Ethyl alcohol Preservation, 66 Ethylene oxide/propylene oxide copolymers Analysis, 59 Eumelanin Hair dyes, 133 Ferulic acid Perservation, 66 Gel permeation chromatography Cationic polymers, 57 Polymer adsorption, 127 Glycerin Preservation, 66 Stability with AHA, 165 Glyceryl stearate Stability with AHA, 165 Glycolic acid Guinea pig skin, 53 Percutaneous absorption, 187 Stability, 165 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride Hair conditioning, 72 Guinea pig skin AHA, 53 Hair, bleached Sunlight, 79 Hair body Organofunctional silicones, 1 Hair conditioning Anti-keratin antibody, 209 Cationic substituted polysaccharides, 72 Organofunctional silicones, 1 Hair damage Anti-keratin antibody, 209 Sunlight, 79 Hair, dyed Sunlight, 79 Hair dyes DOPA, 133 Hair, permed Sunlight, 79 Hair properties Cationic substituted polysaccharides, 72 Combing, 93 Sunlight, 79 Tensile properties, 209 Hair set retention Organofunctional silicones, 1 Hair shine Organofunctional silicones, 1 Hair, split ends Mechanism, 123 Hair structure Method, 199 Hair substantivity Cationic polymers, 57 Method, 57 Polymer adsorption, 127 Hand immersion test Skin irritancy, 141 Heat Preservation, 66 Honey Preservation, 66 2-Hydroxydecanoic acid Percutaneous absorption, 187 2-Hydroxyhexanoic acid Percutaneous absorption, 187 Image analysis Wrinkles, 235, 297 In vitro testing Sunscreens, 289

SUBJECT INDEX 323 Irritancy Method, 141 Isopropyl myristate Stability with AHA, 165 Isopropyl palmitate Stability with AHA, 165 Ketoconazole Antidandruff shampoos, 117 Lactic acid Percutaneous absorption 55, 187 Stability, 165 Lanolin Stability with AHA, 165 Lauralkonium chloride Skin irritation, 307 Lauryl glucoside Skin irritancy, 141 Letters to the editor Cleansing bars, 159 Lipsticks Physical properties, 41 Malassezia ovalis Dandruff, 117 Malic acid Preservation, 66 Massage Carvone, 277 Melanin Hair dyes, 133 Melanogenesis Hair dyes, 133 Meta-analysis Method, 283 Methods Artificial wrinkles, 297 Cosmetic preservation, 62 Echogenicity, 243 Ethylene oxide/propylene oxide copolymer analysis, 59 Hair combing, 93 Hair structure, 199 Hair substantivity, 57 In Vitro SPF testing, 289 Meta-analysis, 283 Percutaneous absorption, 187 Pig skin stability, 175 Polymer adsorption, 127 Rheology, 61 Sensitive skin, 52 Skin irdtancy, 141 Thermal analysis, 61 Methylbenzethonium chloride Skin irritation, 307 Methylbenzlidene camphor SPF testing, 289 Methylparaben Stability with AHA, 165 Micelies Surfactants, 71,253 Microbial tolerance Preservatives, 64 Microbiology Book review, 275 Mildness Testing, 283 Moisturization Echogenicity, 243 Natural preservatives Overview, 66 NMR Spectroscopy Ethylene oxide/propylene oxide copolymers, 59 Octocrylene SPF testing, 289 Octoxynol Polymer interactions, 23 Octyl methoxycinnamate SPF testing, 289 Octyl salicylate SPF testing, 289 Organofunctional silicones Hair care products, 1 Oxybenzone SPF testing, 289 Patch testing Skin irritancy, 141 PEG-20 stearate Stability with AHA, 165 Percutaneous absorption (skin penetration) AHA, 53, 187 Carvone, 277 Lactic acid, 55 Perfume materials Synthesis, 107 Perreed hair Sunlight, 79 Pheomelanin Hair dyes, 133 Photochemistry Urocanic acid, 151 Pig skin Properties, 175 Storage, 175 Piroctone olamine Antidandruff shampoos, 117 Polymers Function, 69 Hair adsorption, 127 Polymer substantivity Gel permeation chromatography, 127 Polymer/surfactant interaction Chemistry, 23 Polyquaternium-4 Hair adsorption, 57, 127