EXTENSION OF HUMAN HAIR 193 which reduces to - -- (11) 0 1+• In amorphous solids •r approximates to 0.5, and equation 11 can be reduced to 80 3e 0 -2(1 + •) (12) Equation 12 corresponds to Curve B in Figure 1, the relationship between scale angle and strain when there is complete attachment and no slippage between scales. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors would like to acknowledge Dr. Heather Patrick for her help in preparing the manuscript. REFERENCES (1) R. F. Stature, M. L. Garcia, and J. J. Fuchs, The optical properties of human hair. Parts I, II, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 571-599, 601-609 (1977). (2) A. Guiolet, J. C. Gatson, and J. L. Levecque, Study of optical properties of human hair, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 9, 111-124 (1987). (3) M. Gamez-Garcia, Cuticle decementation and cuticle buckling produced by Poisson contraction on the cuticular envelope of human hair, J. Cosmet. Sci., 49, 213-222 (1998). (4) J. A. Swift, Human hair cuticle: Biologically conspired to the owner's advantage, J. Cosmet. Sci., 50, 23-47 (1999). (5) S. B. Ruetsch, and H. D. Weigmann, Mechanism of tensile stress release in the keratin fiber cuticle. I.,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 47, 13-26 (1996). (6) L. N. Jones, and D. E. Rivett, The role of 18-methyleiconosanoic acid in the structure and formation of mammalian hair fibers, Micron, 28, 469-485 (1997). (7) V. Robinson, in Mechanical Properties and Structure of Alpha-Keratin Fibres, M. Feughelman, Ed. (Uni- versity of New South Wales Press, Sydney, Australia, 1997), p. 4. (8) J. A. Swift, Fine details on the surface of human hair, Int. J. Cosmet. Sd., 13, 143 (1991). (9) L. N. Jones, D.J. Peet, D. M. Danks, A. P. Negri, and D. E. Rivett, Hair from patients with maple syrup urine disease shows a structural defect in the fibre cuticle, J. Invest, Dermatol., 106, 461-464 (1996). (10) V. Robinson and S. Kelly, The effect of grooming on the hair cuticle, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 33, 203-215 (1982). (11) M. Feughelman, A note on the permanent setting of human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem, 41, 209-211 (1990).
j. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 195-198 (May/June 2001) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Volume 34, No. 1, 2000 Non-Invasive Techniques to Measure Physi- ological Properties of the Skin and Their Ap- plication to Efficacy Test of Skin Care Products Motoji Takahashi, Research Center, Shiseido Co., Ltd. Many techniques have been developed to measure non-invasively ranging from physical to physiologi- cal properties of the skin i.e. mechanical, electrical, thermal, optical, photoacoustic properties, perspira- tion, sebum secretion, blood flow, and skin meta- bolic rate. They are applied to the efficacy test of cosmetic products and ingredients, or to the exami- nation and the classification of skin condition. In this paper each method which measure skin surface topography, skin hydration, barrier function, turn- over time of stratum corneum, parakeratosis, free amino acids in stratum corneum, wrinkle, spots and skin internal structure (ultrasound techniques and in vivo confocal microscopy) is described from the standpoint of the principle and application. Fragrances and Their Special Properties-- Antibacterial and Antioxidant Activity of Fra- grance Materials and Aromas Used as a Tool of Non-Verbal Communication-- Toru Asakoshi, Fragrance Institute, T. Hasegawa Co., Ltd. In general, odors are everything one can sense while aromas are something which will give comfort and relaxation. Whether particular aroma is said to be good or bad will largely depend on ones' own per- sonal experiences or cultural background. Fragrance materials are narrowly defined as products handled by the fragrance industry, while more broadly, they are everything which will bring about aromas. Pri- mary objective of the use of fragrance materials in the final products is of course to help enhance an artistic value, attractiveness or comforthess of such products. This is basically what the fragrances are for. In addition to these, they also possess many other functions. Of these, I will discuss the antibac- terial and antioxidantive aspects which are said to be two of the most representative functions. As we be- come more keenly aware now that we are being exposed to the counterattack by microorganisms and to the harmful sunlight or being damaged by the oxygen, the studies on these characteristics are get- ting attention among researchers. As the same time, I will discuss also the role of aromas in terms of non-verbal communication as viewed in a cultural context. It should be reminded once again that the very basic and essential function of fragrance mate- rials is after all to give aromas. Development of New Evaluation Method for Whitening Agents by Using the Effect of t•-MSH or Endothelin-1 on Normal Melanocytes Yasunobu Ochiai, Kousuke Torii, Yuri Okano, Hi- toshi Masaki, Kobe Research Laboratory, NOEVIR Co., Ltd. It has been reported that o•-MSH and Endothelin-1, which are secreted from keratinocytes or melano- cytes by UV irradiation, are responsible for the pig- mentation of skin according to the increasing of tyrosinase activity. To prevent or improve the pig- mentation due to UV-irradiation, we notice the blocking of the actions induced by o•-MSH or En- dothelin-1. In this study, we established a conve- * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 195
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