196 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE nient evaluation method for the blocking of the cy- tokine-induced reactions. The tyrosinase activity in normal human melanocytes was used as an index of the cytokine-induced reaction. With this method, it was found that certain plant extracts showed the blocking effect for increasing tyrosinase activity, Ar- temisia capillaris Thunberg and Sanguisorba offici- nalis L. for ot-MSH and Achillea millefolium L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Eupatorium fortunei Turcz, Polygonum cuspidatum Sieb. and Thymus vulgaris L. for Endothelin-1. No alterations of these plants on tyrosinase activity in normal human me- lanocytes suggested that the blocking on the cyto- kine action contributed to their effects. A Novel Technique for Preventing Pigment Sedimentation in Nail Enamels Kazuhiro Ishida, Masaki Okuyama, Yuki Mizutani, Shigeyoshi Momose, Product Development Re- search Laboratory, Fundamental Research Labora- tory, KOSE Corporation To prevent sedimentation of inorganic pigments used in nail enamels, we studied a surface treatment of the pigment, using a titanium dioxide. We se- lected a variety of fluorides to improve the electro- static repulsion by the pigment's surface clnarge and adsorption of resins on the pigment surface. The result indicated that the pigments had excellent electrostatic repulsion as well as excellent resin ad- sorption. Our experiments with pigment dispersion containing these pigments confirmed that the par- ticle diameter did not change with time and that pigment aggregation did not occur. Nail enamels formulated with these pigments offer extremely stable dispersion. Within this group, pigments sur- face treated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate were the most effective in preventing sedimentation and that a dispersion stability of 5 times or longer than the conventional life cycle could be obtained. Theory and Its Practical Application for Perma- nent Hair Straightening Satoshi Ogawa, Kazuki Fujii, Katsumi Kaneyama, Kozo Arai, Kyohei Joko, Research and Development Center, Milbon Co. Ltd., Kyoto Women's Junior College, Kyoto Women's University A method for permanent hair straightening was studied by applying a lneat iron technique to the hairs reduced with a solution containing tlniogly- colic acid (TGA) and dithiodiglycolic acid (DTDG) before oxidation treatment. The effectiveness of straightening was evaluated as a function of the de- gree of supercontraction observed on the treatment hairs, which was greatly dependent on pH and tlne concentrations of TGA and DTDG in reducing sys- tem. On the experimental and practical bases, a range of around 5 to 8% supercontraction was found to be necessary to achieve successful permanent hair straightening. High pressure differential scanning calorimetry was used to estimate the a-helix con- tent. From the relationship between the melting enthalpy and the degree of supercontraction of the hair, an important suggestion was made that the supercontraction within 10%--is caused by the ran- domization of the a-helix, and permanency related to the hair straiglntening is a result of the transfor- mation of a-crystal phase into amorphous plnase. Volume 34, No. 2, 2000 Guiding Principles for R&D of Materials Hiroaki Yanagida, Research Institute, Japan Fine Ceramics Center Demerit of recent and a so-called advanced technol- ogy is frequently observed since some of them is too much complicated. Plain technology is friendly to environment and people. Guiding principles for R&D of materials based upon priorities given to brevity are explained. Logo-mark of Ken-Materials Research Consortium consists of words with Chinese characters pronounced as "Ken." Those involve wis- dom of autonomy, structural reliability, functional capability, integration, simplicity, soundness and environmental friendliness. This teclnnological movement aims establishment of techno-democracy. Functional Silicones in Cosmetic Applications Tetsuo Nakanishi, Silicone-Electronics Materials Research Center, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. As utilizing unique properties of the silicones, they had the achievements to be widely used by many industry fields. And it also made a contribution to improvements in various fields of cosmetics. The silicones, lnowever, were used for only additives or substitutes in the cosmetic applications. We have energetically studied the silicone resins and pow- ders. We finally succeeded in the development of unique silicone products for main ingredients of cos- metics, which obtained a characteristic and function tinat could not achieve by current technology. With this general remarks, we give an overview of various silicone products and details of the newly developed acryl silicone resins and powders.

ABSTRACTS 197 Development of Skin Lotion Based on Wine Component Aki Soejima, Kimio Shimamura, Hirofumi Kuwa- hara, Yutaka Aoki, Akinori Haratake, Takeshi Ike- moro, Cosmetics Laboratory, Basic Research Labo- ratory, Kanebo Ltd. Wine composition varies with the grape variety, time of harvest, soil composition, climate and wine- maker. And there have been many reports concern- ing the differences of wine composition. Major com- ponents of wine, such as alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs), glycerol and sugars, are also known as cos- metics ingredients. Although, the ability of AHAs to affect wrinkling have been reported, there was few report concerning the function and effect of wine on the skin. To develop novel skin treatment lotion, we analyzed various kinds of wine and dis- cussed its composition as skin treatment lotion. We confirmed that one of them possessed desirable fea- tures and function as a skin treatment lotion. And we also confirmed that ethylglucoside, one of typical ingredient of novel rot, markedly reduced the irri- tating side effects of AHAs. There results suggested that the possibility to develop novel skin treatment lotion based on wine composition. Application of Aroma Formation Mechanism of Plants to Odor Control Noriaki Oka*2, Takashi Ya*5, Masanori Okada•4, R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries Inc.'2'3'4 By studying the mechanism of aroma release in rose plants, we developed of a new effective method of harvesting the aroma from roses, and utilized this mechanism for controlling odor in several novel cos- metic and household products. After extracting aro- matic precursors from the residue of aroma produc- tion, we reacted them with commercial hydrolyric enzymes or sulfuric acid, followed by determining the quality and quantity of the f?agrance compounds obtained. We were successful in recovering aromatic materials from the aqueous residue following steam distillation of frozen Bulgarian roses. We believe that this method shows promise as a novel and very effective way of thoroughly extracting fragrance components. Understanding of this mechanism also allowed us to develop unique products. We incor- porated aromatic precursors (•-galactosides) into deodorant hair tonic, and detected aroma release from hair after the use of the tonic. We also imbed- ded disposable diapers with a combination of these aromatic precursors ([3-galactosides), clathrate fra- grances and deodorant powders. We found that the diapers could mask urine odor effectively for 24h. These experiments show that this mechanism for odor control has many practical applications in a variety of interesting products. Polymer Analysis by Improved Pyrolysis-Gas Chromatography Hyphenated with Foul. Spe- cific Detectors Kazuyoshi Nakahara, Seiichi Yoshida, Kazuo Ko- matsu, Katsumi Ishiwata, Okihiko Sakamoto, Ana- lytical Chemistry Section, Shiseido Basic Research Center A novel pyrolysis tube was constructed for pyrolysis- gas chromatography (Py-GC). Simplification of pre- treatment and reduction of operating time were achieved by use of the pyrolysis tube. Py-GC with an electron ionization mass spectrometer (Py-GC- EIMS), a chemical ionization mass spectrometer (Py-GC-CIMS), an atomic emission detector (Py- GC-AED) and infrared spectrometer (Py-GC-IR) were used to identify the pyrolysates produced by pyrolysis of polydimethylsiloxane (DMS). It was possible to have a detailed structure of DMS and volatile impurities included in DMS by the com- bined use of those specific detectors. Difference in retention time among the same pyrolysates which were obtained by those detectors was recognized. However, these difference was able to be corrected by retention index (RI) calculated retention times of normal saturated hydrocarbons appeared in a pyro- gram of polyethylene standard. Each relative stan- dard deviation (RSD) which was calculated by five RIs of the same peaks was less than 0.6%, therefore it was possible to construct "an unified pyrolysates library" which was based on RIs. M/Q ratios (M/Q) of three trimethylsiloxysilicates, which indicate mo- lecular ratios of M units to Q units, were calculated by conventional 29Si-NMR. And total carbon area/ total silicon area ratios (C/Si) were calculated by carbon and silicon pyrogram of Py-GC-AED. A lin- ear relationship (r = 0.9997) between M/Q ratio and C/Si ratio was recognized, therefore that relationship has enabled to establish calculating method of M/Q ratio by the use of Py-GC-AED. Establishment of method for identification of unknown pyrograms was attempted, however each reproducibility of match qualities evaluated by library search of total EIMS spectra obtained from total ion pyrograms of poly (acrylic acid) was slightly lower than expected value. It is necessary to determine the optimum conditions of total EIMS spectra and parameters of retrieval. Study on the Mechanisms Associated with Dark Circles Masayuki Matsumoto, Noriko Kobayashi, Osamu Hoshina, Seiichi Arai Cosmetics Laboratory, Kanebo Ltd.