114 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE names) in both tables, Table I for the 34 samples not seen before and Table II for the 19 samples analyzed by us in previous studies (1-3 ). A total of eight samples had trade names, and after these names, in Tables I and II and in the text, is placed the "®" symbol. Also, seven samples had no name. They are listed as "None" for their sample names and are here regarded as all being observably different from one another. Also, for the few occasions where the same sample name occurred more than once, on observably different samples, extra descriptive information on their containers is given in paren- theses after each of the listed names. Also, any additional useful information given to us by the shopkeeper, on the kohl concerned, is given after the name (in parentheses and using " ... "). Table II contains, in addition to the results from our previous studies, the results of XRPD and SEM EDX on eight samples selected in this study for the checking of consistency of composition with variation in locations of purchase. Also given in these tables, on a simple YIN basis, is whether any information is given (on the container or on an enclosed leaflet) on the chemical contents of the sample or on the medicinal effects of using the kohl sample. Figure 1 shows the percentages of the main elements of the major phases in the combined (53) samples from Tables I and II. Similarly, in Figure 2 is shown the (percentage) origins of all the samples listed in Tables I and II. For the 34 samples listed in Table I the main component of 12 was found to be galena (lead sulfide, PbS). In a further three samples it was present as a minor phase. Four of these 15 samples were silver-grey lumps, ten were grey-black (eight) or black (one) or grey (one) powders, and one was black and greasy. The associated minor phases, when galena was the major phase, were the lead compounds anglesite (PbSO 4 ) and/or cerussite (PbC0 3 ). These were usually present in small amounts (i.e., 1-2%) that suggested they were solely weathering products of the galena ore. In one sample, camphor (C 1 0H 1 6 0) Calcium 4% Boron 901o Zinc 13 ° /o Silicon I ran 201o 401o Lead 38 ° /o 30% Figure 1. Main elements of the major phase in the kohl samples listed in Tables I and II.
Saudi Arabia 8 ° /o Iran 13% AVAILABILITY AND COMPOSITION OF "KOHLS" 115 f:="rance Morocco Dubai 2% 23/c 2% 0 Syna India 30°/o 201o Pakistan 41 ° /o Figure 2. Origins of the kohl samples listed in Tables I and II. was also present (at 5 % ), and in another sample (which was grey in color) cerussite had almost certainly been deliberately added, as it was present at 5 %. Thirteen of the samples were found to have amorphous carbon as their major phase. Two were powders and eleven greasy all were black in color. Additionally, three samples had amorphous carbon present as a minor phase. Three samples had (white) zincite (ZnO) as their major phase, with their black or grey-black colors deriving from the addition of amorphous carbon (one sample) or amorphous carbon and galena (two samples) as the minor phases. One sample had zincite as a minor phase, but at 5%. Four samples had one each of the following white/grey-white compounds/mixtures as its major phase: calcium carbonate (CaC0 3 , once as calcite only and once as a mixture of calcite and aragonite), talc (Mg 3 Si4O 10 (OH) 2 ), and sassolite (H 3 BO 3 ). The second and third of these four samples were colored black and grey-black respectively-from the presence of minor phases of graphite and magnetite (Fe3O4) in one sample and of galena in the other sample. Finally, two orange/red-orange powder samples were found to be based on mixtures of the iron compounds hematite (Fe2O3) and goethite (FeO(OH)). As already stated, the major phase listed in Tables I and II usually had a presence in the sample of �90%. However, for 8 of the 42 samples analyzed, the major phase listed was in fact less than 90% (where all percentages given below are estimates). One sample in Table II, "Khojati ® Surma Delux," had its major phase of zincite present at only 70%. Its minor phases were the two forms of calcium carbonate (calcite and aragonite) present at a total of 25%, with the remaining 5% covering the combined minor phases of amorphous carbon, quartz, and magnetite. Seven more such samples are present in Table I. The sample "Kohl Original Stone" was found to contain only 85% of the major phase (galena), its minor phases of cerussite plus anglesite having percentages of 10% and 5%, respectively. Both "Surma Noor-Ul-Ain" (the sample said to be "hot" by the shopkeeper) and "Hashmi Kajal" (in the form of a blue-colored pencil) had their major phases (zincite) at only 80% each, with minor phases of galena (16%) plus amorphous carbon (2%) plus quartz (2%), and galena (17%) plus amorphous carbon (3%), respectively.
Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown) From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)