122 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE in the UAE. By contrast, in a very recent study in Saudi Arabia (14), all the samples labelled "hot"/"cold" did/did not have lead present. COMPARISON WITH OTHER STUDIES Of the 5 3 observably different kohl samples available in the six emirates studied here, it was found that twenty (38%) contain a lead compound (galena, PbS) as the major phase. This percentage is identical to that found for lead-containing samples in all the samples available in the souks of both Dubai and Sharjah it is slightly higher than that found (36%) for the souk of RAK and is substantially different from the values found for the much smaller souks of Umm Al-Quwain (14%) and Ajman (57%). For the Fujairah city souk, it was found that while 40% of the samples purchased contained galena as a major phase, this value was calculated for only two of five samples purchased (a "selection"), and so is possibly not a true representation for that emirate. The overall percentage (38%) is also smaller than that found by us for Abu Dhabi city (50% (1)), but is higher than our values found for Oman (32% (2)) and Cairo (33% (3)). By comparison, the lead-containing percentages given in Table IV, for other previous publications where kohl samples were analyzed, are almost all 2::50% (the one exception being the kohls purchased in Bahrain, where only 33% of the samples studied contained lead). The fifteen studies listed in Table IV, done over the twenty-five year period 1979-2004, have a range of 32% to 100% for those samples that contain lead. The "average" is 63% of samples found to contain lead. The non-lead elements or compounds found in our present study (Figure 1 and Tables I and II) are broadly similar to those found in the previous studies of Table IV. However, several authors (14-17) did find antimony (usually in small/very small amounts) in some of their kohl samples, whereas we found no antimony whatsoever despite the verbal assurances of several Emirati shopkeepers and from information on enclosed leaflets. Also, in the fifteen previous studies listed in Table IV it can be seen that India and/or Pakistan are mentioned as the origin of at least some of the kohl samples in ten of the studies. In Abu Dhabi city the percentage of samples originating in India and Pakistan was 89%. This value is similar to the values found in this study for five of the individual emirates: 81 % each for Dubai and Sharjah, 86% for Ajman, 100% for Umm Al-Quwain, and for RAK only 68%. In Fujairah city souk's "selection," all (100%) originated in Pakistan, but this is probably not a true representation for that emirate. By contrast, the percentages in Oman and Egypt (Cairo) were only 40% and 22%, respectively. The reason for this difference in values between the UAE and these other two Middle Eastern countries is that samples were made locally in both Oman (38%) and Egypt (61 %), unlike the UAE where only one such sample ("Zikra Al Haramain," which was made in Dubai) has ever been encountered. The eight samples seen before by us in previous studies, but re-analyzed here (Table II), were all found to have essentially the same chemical composition regardless of locations of purchase. CONCLUSIONS In the 5 3 observably different kohl samples, found overall in the six emirates covered in this study, the main component of twenty was determined to be galena (with three more

Table IV Other Analyses of Kohl Samples No. containing n Made in Purchased in lead (%) Non-lead elements/ compounds 11 India and Pakistan Midlands (UK) 6 (55%) Zn,C/Menthol, Herbs, Pearls 13 Not given Kuwait 11 (85%) C/Fe2OyH2O, Herbs 17 Nigeria Nigeria 17 (100%) C/Herbs 21 Saudi Arabia and India Saudi Arabia 14 (67%) C,O,S,Si,Ca,Fe,Al,Ti,Sb,Na,Zn,Cl,K 47 Mostly India, Pakistan and Mostly Oman (39) 15 (32%) Mostly compounds based on Fe, Oman Ca, Zn, and B. Also, various C compounds. 23 Mostly India and Pakistan United Arab Emirates 11 (48%) Various largely as above. (Mostly Abu Dhabi, 18) 18 Egypt (11), India (4), China, Cairo 6 (33%) Various largely as above. Sudan and Saudi Arabia Kohl analyses using only AA (atomic absorption): 22 Mostly India, Pakistan and World-wide6 13a (59%) Not given Morroco 21 Mostly India, Pakistan and Bahrain r (33%) Not given Saudi Arabia 6 Mostly India and Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabia 4a (67%) Sb (at less than 10%) in five samples 10 Pakistan Pakistan (Karachi) 8 (80%) Zn (in the 2 non-lead samples), SiO2 (all) 8 Mostly Saudi Arabia Saudia Arabia 6a (75%) Sb, As, Cd and Pt (all at less than 1 % ) 28 Egypt (18), imported (10) Egypt (Greater Cairo) W (50%) Not given 10 Morocco (6), imported (4) Morroco (Marrakech) 10 (100%) Not given 107 Saudi Arabia, India, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia 62 (58%) Al, Sb (each at less than 1 %) and Iran Camphor/Menthol found in a few samples a Above 1 % lead. 6 America, UK, Morocco, and Mauritania. Method(s) used AA,XRPD AA, XRPD, SEM AA, XRPD, SEM SEM XRPD, SEM XRPD, SEM XRPD, SEM AA AA AA AA AA AA AA AA Year and reference (1979) (18) (1981) (19) (1984) (20) (1995) (15) (1998) (2) (2002) (1) (2004) (3) (1991) (21) (1992) (22) (1993) (16) (1994) (23) (1995) (17) (1997) (24) (2001) (25) (2004) (14) - r - r ..., z u 0 � 0 - 0 z 0 'Tl � 0 r � """"' tv VJ