124 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE samples having it present as a minor phase). Therefore, almost half (43%) of these 53 available samples contain a lead compound. Sixteen more were based on amorphous carbon, seven on zincite, five on sassolite, two on the iron compounds hematite and goethite, two on calcium carbonate, and one on talc. This study shows that traditional eye cosmetics, "kohls," are still readily available in the souks of Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al-Quwain, Ras Al-Khaimah, and Fujairah and that, unfortunately, many do still contain the toxic element lead (as PbS). The largest three emirates (Dubai, Sharjah, and RAK) have, as expected, the largest souks and thus the largest number of available kohl samples for purchase. If three kohl samples were bought in any one of these three emirates' souks, then there would be a high probability that one would contain lead, and in all likelihood there would be no clear indication of this on its container or enclosed leaflet. Moreover, some of the most available kohls not only contain lead, but contain it in a form (i.e., small particle size) that makes it more easily absorbed into the human gut. Finally, we can only reiterate that this element has no known biological value and is an insidious cumulative poison having potentially devastating cognitive effects if applied regularly to young children. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS We thank the following people for their help in the course of this study: Mr. P. Auchterlonie (Librarian for Middle East Studies, Exeter University, UK) for his help in translating phrases found, in various languages, on leaflets/containers of some of the samples mentioned in this article, and Dr. E. Berner (American University of Dubai, Dubai, UAE) for her local knowledge and help in arranging "field trips" to some of the more distant souks of the UAE. Also, we thank the staff of the Chemical and Materials Analysis Unit (University of Newcastle, UK) for the experimental SEM work mentioned in this article. REFERENCES (l) A. D. Hardy, H. H. Sutherland, and R. Vaishnav, A study of the composition of some eye cosmetics (kohls) used in the United Arab Emirates,]. Ethnopharrnacol., 80, 137-145 (2002). (2) A. D. Hardy, R. Vaishnav, S.S. Z. Al-Kharusi, H. H. Sutherland, and M.A. Worthing, Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Oman, J. Ethnopharmacol., 60, 223-234 (1998). (3) A. D. Hardy, R. I. Walton, and R. Vaishnav, Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Cairo, Int. J. Environ. Health Res., 14, 83-91 (2004). (4) (Marcus) Vitruvius (Pollio), De Architectura, Book 8, Chapter 6, Passages 10 and 11 (http://www.ukans . edu!history!index/ettropelancient_rome/EIRornan!Texts!Vitruvim/8. html). (5) R. L. Canfield, C.R. Henderson, D. A. Cory-Slechta, C. Cox, T. A. Jusko, and B. P. Lanphear, Intel- lectual impairment in children with blood lead concentrations below 10 µg per deciliter, New Engl.]. Med., 348, 1517-1526 (2003). (6) R. A. Goyer, Lead toxicity: From overt to subclinical to subtle health effects, Environ. Health Perspect., 86, 177-181 (1990). (7) H. L. Needleman, A. Schell, D. Bellinger, and E. N. Alfred, The long term effects of exposure to low doses of lead in childhood: An eleven year follow-up report, N. Engl. J. Med., 332, 83-88 (1990). (8) J. Schwartz and D. Otto, Lead and minor hearing impairment, Arch. Environ. Health, 46, 300-306 (1991). (9) C. D. Klaasen, Casarett and Dou/l's Toxicology, the Basic Science of Poisons, 5th ed. (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1996).

AVAILABILITY AND COMPOSITION OF "KOHLS" 125 (10) A. Al-Khayat, N. S. Menon, and M. R. Alidina, Acute lead encephalopathy in early infancy-Clinical presentation and outcome, Ann. Trap. Paediatr., 17, 39--44 (1997). (11) H. Narchi, Radiological case of the month, Arch. Pediatr. Ado!. Med., 154, 83-84 (2000). (12) M.A. Healy, P. G. Harrison, M. Aslam, S.S. Davis, and C. G. Wilson, Lead sulphide and traditional preparations: Routes for ingestion, and solubility and reactions in gastric fluid,]. Clin. Hosp. Phann., 7, 169-173 (1982). (13) C. Gardella, Lead exposure in pregnancy: A review of the literature and argument for routine prenatal screening, Obstet. Gynaec. Survey, 56, 231-238 (2001). (14) R. M. Al-Ashban, M. Aslam, and A.H. Shah, Kohl (surma): A toxic traditional eye cosmetic study in Saudi Arabia, Public Health, 118, 292-298 (2004). (15) S. A. F. Al-Hazzaa, and P. M. Krahn, Kohl: A hazardous eyeliner, Int. Ophthalrnol., 19, 83-88 (1995). (16) A. Al-Kaff, A. Al-Rajhi, K. Tabbora, and A. El-Yazigi, Kohl-The traditional eyeliner: Use and analysis, Ann. Saudi Med., 13, 26-30 (1993). (17) I. A. Al-Saleh and L. Coate, Lead exposure in Saudi Arabia from the use of traditional cosmetics and medical remedies, Environ. Geochem. Health, 17, 29-31 (1995). (18) M. Aslam, S.S.Davis, and M.A.Healy, Heavy metals in some Asian medicines and cosmetics, Public Health, 93, 274-284 (1979). (19) N. P. Fernando, M.A. Healy, M. Aslam, S.S.Davis, and A. Hussein, Lead poisoning and traditional practices: The consequences for world health. A study in Kuwait, Public Health, 95, 250-260 (1981). (20) M.A. Healy, M. Aslam, and 0. A. Bamgboye, Traditional medicine and lead-containing preparations in Nigeria, Public Health, 98, 26-32 (1984). (21) C. Parry and J. Eaton, Kohl: A lead-hazardous eye makeup from the third world to the first world, Environ. Health Perspect., 94, 121-123 (1991). (22) I. M. Madany and M. S. Akhter, Lead levels in some eye cosmetics used in Bahrain, J. Environ. Sci. Health [A}, 27, 1541-1547 (1992). (23) A. M. Syed, M. Qadiruddin, K. Shirin, and Z. B. Hashmi, Determination of inorganic components including minor and trace elements in surma (kohl) formulations, Pak. J. Sci. Ind. Res., 37, 411--413 (1994). (24) R. Chappell, P. Billig, E. Brantly, S. Ault, and H. S. Ezzeldin, Lead Exposure Abatement Plan for Egypt: Results of Environmental Sampling for Lead, Environmental Health Project, Activity Report No. 32 (prepared for the USAID Mission to Egypt under EHP Activity No. 256-CC) (1997). (25) N. Lekouch, A. Sedki, N. Nejmeddine, and S. Gamon, Lead and traditional Moroccan pharmacopoeia, Sci. Total Environ., 280, 39-43 (2001).