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J. C osmet. Sci. J 5 7, 13 9-151 (March/ April 2006) Study of the interaction between hair protein and organic acid that improves hair-set durability by near-infrared spectroscopy TAKASHI ITOU, MASAYOSHI NOJIRI, YOSHIKAZU OOTSUKA, and KOICHI NAKAMURA, Kao Corporation, Hair Care Research Laboratories, 1-3, Bunka 2-chome, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 131-8501 (T.I., M.N., K.N.), and Kao Corporation, Analytical Research Center, 1334 Minato, Wakayama City, Wakayama 640-8580. (Y.0.), Japan. Accepted for publication October 31, 200 5. Synopsis In this study, hydrogen bonds around hair proteins were analyzed by near-infrared spectroscopy to reveal the mechanism of improving hair-set durability by treatment with a specific organic acid. The improvement of set durability was confirmed by measurement on single hair fibers, suggesting that improvement is not because of the surface adhesion increase but because of the internal changes in the hair. Through analysis by two-dimensional near-infrared correlation spectroscopy, it was found that a combina- tion band of stretching NH and amide II is deconvoluted into three bands interacting with different hydrogen bonds. From the assignment of the three bands, the behavior of the organic acid in the hair was clarified as follows: it adsorbs at the site where water originally binds, even in extremely dry conditions, prevents water penetration, and makes strong and stable hydrogen bonds with hair proteins. The formation of such strong and stable hydrogen bonds suppresses the exchange of hydrogen bonds that is the cause of the breakage of set durability. INTRODUCTION It is well known that hair damage is a cause of lusterless appearance, rough feel, and mechanical breakdown. According to recent studies ( 1-3 ), hair damage by bleaching or dyeing, along with repeated daily hair care processes, including hair drying with a hot dryer, generates several types of light-scattering origins in the internal structure of the hair, such as splitting of cuticle layers, the generation of micropores in the cortex, and the generation of a porous medulla. The pores inside hair account for its dull appearance. For a technology to suppress the pores, it has been reported that a combi- nation of specific organic acids and solvents are effective (3 ,4). In further research to confirm the change in appearance by the organic acid and solvent on various hairs, we 139