EMULSION STABILIZATION 169 drocarbon molecules). Any creaming or sedimentation of the emulsions can be prevented by using "thickeners" (such as hydroxyethyl cellulose or xanthan gum) that produce high viscosity ( 1000 Pas) at low shear stresses or shear rates. The HMI polymeric surfactant also prevents phase inversion, since the molecule is insoluble in oil at all temperatures. ACKNOWLEDGMENT The author is grateful to Orafti Biobased Products for sponsoring the research on the use of INUTEC® SPl for the stabilization of emulsions. For more information on the technical applications of INUTEC® SP 1 in cosmetic formulations the reader can contact Mr Karl Booten of Orafti: e-mail address karl.booten@orafti.corn. REFERENCES (1) Th. F. Tadros and B. Vincent, in Encyclopedia of Emulsion Technology, P. Becher, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1983). (2) I. Piirma, Polymeric Surfactants, Surfactant Science Series, No. 42 (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1992). (3) C. V. Stevens, A. Meriggi, M. Peristerpoulou, P. P. Christov, K. Booten, B. Levecke, A. Vandamme, N. Pittevils, and Th.F. Tadros, Biornacrornolecules, 2, 1256 (2001). (4) E. L. Hirst, D. I. McGilvary, and E.G. Percival, J. Chern. Soc., 1297 (1950). (5) M. Suzuki, in Science and Technology of Fructans, M. Suzuki and N. J. Chatterton, Eds. (CRC Press, Boca Raton, Fl., 1993) p. 21. (6) Th.F. Tadros, C. Dederen, and M. C. Taelman, Cosrnet. Toiletr., 112, 75 (1997). (7) Th.F. Tadros, in Polymer Colloids, R. Buscall, T. Comer, and Stageman Applied Sciences, Eds. (London, Elsevier, 1985), p. 105. (8) D. H. Napper, Polymeric Stabilization of Dispersions (Academic Press, London, 1983). (9) P. J. Flory, Principles of Polymer Chemistry (Cornell University Press, New York, 1953). (10) Th.F. Tadros, A. Vandamme, K. Booten, B. Levecke, and C. V. Stevens, Colloids Surf, 250, 133 (2004). (11) J. Esquena, F. J. Dominguez, C. Solans, B. Levecke, K. Booten, and Th.F. Tadros, Langmuir, 19, 10469 (2003). (12) P. Walstra, in Encyclopedia �f Emulsion Technology, P. Becher, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1985), Vol. 4, p. 1. (13) Th.F. Tadros, in Ernulsions�A Fundamental and Practical Approach, J. Sjoblom, Ed. (NATO ASI Series, Vol. 363, 1992), p. 173. (14) I. M. Krieger and M. Dougherty, Trans. Soc. Rheol., 3, 137 (1959) I. M. Krieger, Adv. Colloid Interface Sci., 3, 111 (1972). (15) Th.F. Tadros, Adv. Colloid Interface Sci., 108-109, 227 (2004). (16) K. Shinoda and H.J. Saito, Colloid Interface Sci., 30, 258 (1969).

]. Cosmet. Sci.J 57, 171-173 (March/April 2006) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 28, No. 1, 2006* In Vivo Confocal fluorescence Imaging of Skin Surface Cellular Morphology: A Pilot Study of its Potential as a Clinical Tool in Skin Research D. Thom Leeson, C. L yn n Meyers and K Subramanyan The cellular morphology of the stratum comeum was studied in vivo using a novel imaging technique that uses confocal fluorescence microscopy in combination with topical application of a fluorescent contrast agent. Images obtained with this method show a strong variation in skin surface cellular morphology among healthy subjects. The results of several clinical studies suggest that cellular morphology is affected by the efficiency of the proce1111 of desquamation. As such, cellular morphology shows strong potential to serve as an indicator of skin health that yields mechanistic in. ight into the origins of skin ailment , such as xerosis, and the effectiveness of their treatments. Image Analysis of Skin Scaling Using D-Squame® Samplers: Comparison with Clinical Scoring and Use for Assessing Moisturizer Efficacy D. Black•, J. Boyert and J. M. Lagarde• The severity of scaling disorders can be evaluated objectively using the D-Squame 1111 technique coupled with 1 image analysis. The parameters of scaling derived u. ing this approach need to be clinically relevant and should have greater discrimination than visual grading. Improvement to an existing method that fulfil these requirements are presented. Three scaling parameters were calculated u. ing image analysis of di�tized video-captured images of obliquely lit D-Squame samples. These parameters were compared to clinical scores of scaling made by five observers from photographs of the same areas sampled with D-Squame 1111 • In addition, two clinical studies were carried out to assess moisturizer effects on different degrees of xerosis, and to compare two different moisturizer preparations. The three scaling parameters gave correlation coefficients, r, between 0.6 and 0. 75 when compared with global clinical scores of scaling. Si gn ificant reductions in all parameters were observed with 2 weeks of moisturizer use on lower leg skin with marked xerosis compared to an untreated control. The same moisturizer had a similar effect on milder xerosis of the forearm, and showed a greater decrease than a moisturizer with lower glycerol content. Increases in skin hydration, as measured with a comeometer, were also seen in both clinical studies, and corresponded well with D-Squame 1111 results. Differences in the degrees of scaling between these two anatomical sites were also detected with this technique. In a previou. publication, the same technique was shown to be repeatable and reproducible in the current article ilI correlation with clinical observations of scaling or flaking skin has been demonstrated. Investigating Hair Properties Relevant for Hair 'Handle'. Part I: Hair Diameter, Bending and Frictional properties1 F.-J. Wortmann• and A. Schwan-Jonczykt In cooperation with the working group z 'Hair Care Product ' of the DGK (Deutsche Gesellschaft fuer Wissenschaftliche und Angewandte Kosmetik e. V.: German A sociation for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics) The expert working group 'Hair Care Products' of the DGK currently conducts a wide study to contribute to the understanding of how single hair fibre and hair collective properties contribute towards hair 'handle' and 'feel'. During the first stage of this study four hair types were selected from a large group of individual European hair braids, according to either similar or widely different panel ratings for handle. Against the background of the panel test and the state of the literature the working group readily identified the bending properties of single fibres interacting in the tres. as a fibre collective and fibre fiiction as being of central relevance for hair 'handle' and 'feel'. Fibre diameters of the hair types were determined by Optical Fibre Diameter Analyzer and by weighing. From these data mean ellipticity and bending stiffness distributions were calculated. Single fibre friction was determined by the capstan method in the root, middle and tip regions. Significant differences were detennined between the hair * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the .Journal of Cosmetic Science. 171