JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 676 mascara, 125 polymers, 570 reverse engineering, 558 synthetic sebum, 467 Fragrance trends, 474 Free radicals detection in skin, 49 Glycerin as moisturizer, 564 Glycerophospholipids chemistry of, 393 Glycine and hair coloring, 205 Glycokines and skin elasticity, 66 Glycyrrhizia glabra extract in tyrosinase inhibition, 53 Grapevine extract skin cell effects of, 543 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and iron oxide coating, 617 Hair 18-MEA deposition on, 31 aging effects on, 637 bending set, 284 breakage, 143, 580, 582, 584, 599 chemical diffusion, 307 combing, 285 damage, 294, 580, 582, 584 ethnic, 76, 97, 580, 582, 584 fi ber-fi ber interaction, 261 friction, 283, 285, 286 hydrophobicity, 287, 298, 509 light scattering, 293 lipids, 286, 437 lubricity, 135 luster, 111 measurements, 288 mercaptan effects, 527 moisture content of, 80, 82, 303 oxidating dyeing of, 47 and product deposition, 574 properties, 304, 305, 309 raman spectroscopy of, 306 scanning electron microscopy of, 308 softness, 544 structure, 199, 437, 653 styling, 78 thermal protection of, 578 tribology, 283 UV protection of, 299 viscoelasticity, 544 wetting, 307 Hair body measurement of, 171, 289 Hair breakage ethnic hair, 582, 584 fatigue testing, 599 measurement of, 143 Hair care creatine, 296 ethnic, 76 hair damage, 294 nanoemulsions, 302 polyquaternium-87, 291 polyurethane, 292 shampoo phase separation, 301 silicones, 295 Hair cells respiratory effects, 282 Hair conditioning cationic polymers, 239 Hair cosmetics proteins, 576 Hair cuticle 18-MEA, 31, 286, 287, 298, 509 damage, 85 lipids of, 85 luster, 111, 153, 187 smoothness of, 187 Hair damage calcium uptake, 337 color fading, 572 copper uptake, 313, 337 measurements, 288 repair, 372 review, 437 Hair dyes chemistry, 429 color fading, 217, 572 mechanism of, 300 oxidants, 205 oxidative dyeing, 47, 366 Hair fi xatives acrylate polymers, 78 cassia gum, 251 cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, 251 polymers, 251 Hair holding ethnic, 76 Hair lubricity measurement, 135 Hair luster aging effects, 637 blonde hair, 323 ethnic, 76 evaluation, 111, 153, 187 mechanism, 323 polarized imaging of, 311 Hair properties oils and butters, 273

SUBJECT INDEX 677 Poisson’s ratio, 310 shampoo phase separation, 301 shear modulus, 309 Hair proteins review, 437 Hair relaxers damage evaluation of, 580 Hair shine see hair luster Hair smoothness evaluation of, 187 Hair softness methods, 544 Hair stiffness measurement of, 135 Hair styling acrylate polymers, 78 properties, 304 Hair volume measurement of, 171 Hinokitiol analysis, 519 Hoelen extract anti-acne assessment, 25 Hyaluronic acid in moisturization, 7 Hydrogels and cellulite, 627 Hydrogen peroxide in hair coloring, 205 Hydrogenated polyisobutene in moisturization, 7 Hydrolyzed proteins as cosmetic ingredient, 55, 473 in hair cosmetics, 576 Hydroquinone in skin lightening, 501 8-Hydroxydaidzein stability of, 353 in tyrosinase inhibition, 353 Hypsizygus ulmarius extract as cosmetic ingredient, 545 IFSCC history, 372 Image analysis hair body, 289 Imidazolidinyl urea analysis, 556 Infl ammaging methodology, 651 Information retrieval methodology, 660 Iontophoresis and collagen reproduction, 415 Iron oxides as cationic polymer coating, 617 Isoquercetin as antioxidant, 554 1-Isostearylglycerol-3-phosphate and facial pores, 537 Kaempferol in tyrosinase inhibition, 347 Kajal analysis, 657 Kaolin in clay liquid detergents, 541 Kojik acid in skin lightening, 501 Kudzu symbiosomes and procollagen synthesis, 475 Lanolin derivatives in bath cosmetics, 55 Laser stereometry and hair volume, 171 Lead in lipstick analysis, 405 Lecithin chemistry of, 393 Leghemoglobin and procollagen synthesis, 475 Lipids analysis, 560 in hair cuticle, 85 Lipstick lead analysis in, 405 long wearing, 48 Lochhead effect phase separation, 301 Magnesium aluminum silicate clay liquid detergents, 541 Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate skin lightening by, 501 stability of, 369 Makeup surface free energy in, 48 Marine algae polysaccharides, 374 Marl clay liquid detergents, 541 Mascara cationic polymers in, 617 formulation, 125 polymers in, 125 Massage and facial wrinkles, 47 Matrix proteins in skin aging, 50 18-MEA hair deposition, 31