JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 22 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors thank William Pickens for his technical support in this work. This work was supported by an SCC Graduate Fellowship. REFERENCES (1) C. N. Palmer et al., Nature Genetics, 38, 441–446 (2006). (2) S. Weidinger et al., J. Allergy Clin. Immunol. 118, 214–219 (2006). (3) I. R. Scott and C. R. Harding, Dev. Biol., 115, 84–92 (1986). (4) T. Seguchi, C. Chang-Yi, S. Kusuda, M. Takahashi, K. Aisu, and T. Tezuka, Decreased expression of fi laggrin in atopic skin, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 288, 442–446 (1996). (5) J. N. Barker et al., J. Invest. Dermatol., 126, 127(3), 564–567 (2006). (6) A. Sandilands et al., J. Invest. Dermatol., 126, 1770–1775 (2006). (7) G. M. O’Regan, A. Sandilands, W. H. McLean, and A. D. Irvine, J. Allergy Clin. Immunol., 122, 689– 693 (2008). (8) R. S. Ginger, S. Blachford, J. Rowland, M. Rowson, and C. R. Harding, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 297, 235–241 (2005). (9) A. Alonso, N. C. Meirelles, V. E. Yushmanov, and M. Tabak, J. Invest. Dermatol., 106, 1058–1063 (1996). (10) M. O. Visscher, G. T. Tolia, R. R. Wickett, and S. B. Hoath, J. Cosmet. Sci., 54, 289–300 (2003). (11) R. R. Wickett, G. Tolia, B. Fugitt, M. O. Visscher, and S. B. Hoath, Bioengineering evaluation of the water handling capacities of stratum corneum in vivo, Proc. 2001 IFSCC. Intl. Conf., Taipei, Taiwan, 37–46 (2001). (12) T. Yamamura and T. Tezuka, J. Invest. Dermatol., 93, 160–164 (1989). (13) G. Imokawa, H. Kuno, and M. Kawai, J. Invest. Dermatol., 96, 845–851 (1991). (14) P. K. Smith et al., Analyt. Biochem., 150, 76–85 (1985). (15) G. B. Jemec and J. Serup, Acta Derm. Venereol. (Stockh.), 70, 245–247 (1990). (16) P. Treffel and B. Gabard, Arch. Dermatol. Res., 287, 474–479 (1995). (17) I. Scott and C. Harding, Dermatology 2000, 773 (1993). (18) A. V. Rawlings, I. R. Scott, C. R. Harding, and P. A. Bowser, J. Invest. Dermatol., 103, 731–741 (1994). (19) K. Hashimotokumasaka, I. Horii, and H. Tagami, Arch. Dermatol Res., 283, 342–346 (1991). (20) P. J. Caspers, G. W. Lucassen, E. A. Carter, H. A. Bruining, and G. J. Puppels, J. Invest. Dermatol., 116, 434–442 (2001). (21) P. J. Caspers, G. W. Lucassen, R. Wolthuis, H. A. Bruining, and G. J. Puppels, Biospectroscopy, 4, S31– S39 (1998). (22) P. J. Caspers, G. W. Lucassen, and G. J. Puppels, Biophys. J. 85, 572–580 (2003). (23) J. Kubilus, R. W. Waitkus, and H. P. Baden, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 581, 114–121 (1979). (24) J. Kubilus et al., J. Invest. Dermatol., 85, 513–517 (1985). (25) I. R. Scott, C. R. Harding, and J. G. Barrett, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 719, 110–117 (1982). (26) A. Bornkessel, M. Flach, M. Arens-Corell, P. Elsner, and J. W. Fluhr, Skin Res. Technol., 11, 53–60 (2005). (27) J. L. Leveque, J. de Rigal, D. Saint-Leger, and D. Billy, Skin Pharmacol, 6, 111–115 (1993).
J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 23–29 (January/February 2010) 23 Natural moisturizing factors (NMF) in the stratum corneum (SC). II. Regeneration of NMF over time after soaking MARISA ROBINSON, MARTY VISSCHER, ANGELA LaRUFFA, and RANDY WICKETT, The James L. Winkle College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati, 3225 Eden Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45267 (M.R., R:W), and Skin Sciences Institute, Cincinnati Children’s Hospital Medical Center, 3333 Burnet Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45229 (M.V., A.L.R). Accepted for publication June 22, 2009. Presented as a podium lecture at the SCC Annual Meeting and Technical Showcase, New York, December 2003. Synopsis The detrimental effects of prolonged water exposure on skin are well known. Information on the effects of short-term exposure, e.g., during bathing, showering, and hand washing, on NMF levels is limited. In an attempt to isolate the effects of soaking on the NMF, a time course for skin sample collection was devised in which adhesive tapes were applied 0.5 and four hours after soaking of the treated arm. Signifi cant decreases in NMF levels, quantifi ed by HPLC analysis of serial tape strips, were observed 0.5 hours after soaking, with a replacement of NMF occurring by the four-hour mark. This replacement corresponds to a parallel rebound in skin pH also observed at these times. Stratum corneum hydration values, measured instrumentally as the rate of moisture accumulation (MAT), however, were depressed 0.5 hours post-soaking and remained low four hours later. In addition, signifi cant increases in skin pH were observed during the immediate post-soak period. These fi ndings suggest that short-term exposure to water alone produces signifi cant changes in the stratum corneum. INTRODUCTION The detrimental effects to the skin of long water exposure are well known. Extended water exposure causes maceration of the skin, disruption of the skin barrier and structure, and a dry fl aky appearance once the excess water evaporates (1–6). The effects of ordinary water exposures, such as bathing or soaking, on the skin and its biophysical properties have been explored over years of research in many laboratories. Soak baths of relatively brief dura- tion, up to 20 minutes in length, have been shown to temporarily increase skin hydration and reduce scaling (7). Studies of long-term exposures indicate that the skin looks well hydrated and scale-free immediately after the exposure, but that within two to three days, hyperplasia and infl ammation occur (1). The boundary between the therapeutic and damag- ing effects of water exposure is unknown, as is the etiology of the resulting damage. Increased stratum corneum (SC) hydration due to soaking has been shown to increase skin permeability to surfactants and other irritants (8,9). Even brief tap water washing increases
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