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38 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS SOME ASPECTS OF PERFUMERY CHEMICALS A Lecture delivered to the Society on the 8th December, 1955. A. J. KRAJKEMAN, Dipl. Ing. Chem., A.R.I.C.* The di•erent kinds of impurities which occur in aromatics are discussed. The Chemist and the Per•umer have a different approach to the problem of purity of aromatics. [luestions connected with this difference of approach are discussed and an attempt is made to explain it. IT w^s indeed an honour to me when I was invited by our secretary to give a lecture during this session of the Society. However, it was not only an honour, but also quite a shock. What on earth was I going to talk about ? Some aspects of perfumery chemicals, all right. But which aspects of perfumery chemicals have not already been dealt with at length by people who are much better qualified than I am to say something interesting on this subject ? It is not easy to discuss chemicals without doing one of three things. One can read an original paper. Now this is out of the question in my case because my activity is confined to production. Then one could, of course, discuss production, but again this is not possible without touching certain points which are considered vital secrets, although they are, in fact, more or less open secrets, as those with a knowledge of the industry are well aware. Finally, one can dwell on generalities, but this has the danger of being utterly boring. Nevertheless, in spite of this danger, I have decided to discuss one general point one which is constantly in the minds of those who produce perfumery chemicals, namely, the degree of purity of aromatics. There are two different approaches to this question of purity of aromatics: the approach of the manufacturer who is an organic chemist, and the approach of the consumer who is a perfumer. That these two have quite a different approach can be well illustrated by an everyday occurrence. A chemical has been manufactured, perhaps three or four stages are involved in the process--chemically highly complicated stages. The chemist has done all he can to produce a satisfactory product. The yield is good, the analytical figures show that a pure product has been prepared, and a sample is proudly presented to the perfumer. The perfumer smells it and says in cold blood-- "it stinks." He does not care if this verdict of his means to the chemist another series of chemical reactions which may, and in fact in most cases does, upset production schedules. And he is quite right, too. He wants his per- fume ingredient to possess just the right note, as otherwise it will spoil his final composition. So it is left to the chemist to think of a method for further purification of the product, and when he has finally succeeded and the * S6flor Ltd., Wadsworth Rd., Perivale, Middlesex.