CHEMICAL BINDERS AND PRESSED POWDERS 359 Table II Peadescent Eye Shadow Per Cent (w/w) Ingredients Sample 1 Sample 2 Alabama talc 141 • 9.7 8.7 Italian talc 115.0 115.0 Metropolitan talc 4601 ø 10.0 10.0 Kaolin 15.0 15.0 Zinc stearate 2.0 2.0 Methyl paraben, U.S.P. 0.1 0.1 Propyl paraben, U.S.P. 0.1 0.1 Germall 1115 * 0.1 0.1 Bismuth oxyehloride 30.0 30.0 Ultramarine blue 8.0 8.0 Cosmetic black oxide 1.0 1.0 Titanium-coated mica 115.0 Binder 4.0 '15.0 100.0 100.0 Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, S. Plainfield, N.I. Sutton Laboratories, Roselle, N.J. ing samples for the investigation. A modified Carver Laboratory Press* was used to compress the matte eye shadows and a Cavalla Presst to press the pearlescent samples. It was found that the Cavalla Press used hydraulically pressed the matte samples too hard for proper evaluation. The modified Carv- er Laboratory Press was used mechanically and set up with air pressure. This was effective for the matte eye shadow evaluations. Two specific pressures were used on each machine for pressing samples. Settings of 80 and 120 were used on the modified Carver Press, which were supposed to correspond to 1200 and 1800 psi, respectively. The Cavalla Press was set at 200 and 500. We were unable to correlate the pressure readings with the actual pressure ex- erted on the pans. Therefore, the findings of each press must be compared by itself. Experimentally, we were able to measure tablet hardness or consistency by taking penetrations with a Precision Penetrometer.* An average penetration of 3 tablets was recorded. Pay-off of all samples was compared by rubbing tablets with a foam appli- cator. A numerical rating system (1 to 3) was used to measure pay-off ( 1 = glazing, too hard, no pick-up 2 = slight glazing, moderately hard, slight pick-up 3 = no glazing, good pick-up). * F. S. Carver Inc., Div. Sterling Ind., Milwaukee, Wis. 153232. t A. Cavalla Inc., New York, N.Y. 10011. • Precision Scientific, Chicago, Ill.

360 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table III Binders Evaluated Binder No. Chemical Name 1. Avocado oil 2. Castor oil 3. Decyl oleate 4. Diisopropyl adipate 5. Ethoxyl.ated glycerine 6. Ethyl hexyl palmRate 7. Glycerine C.P./U.S.P. 8. Hexadecyl alcohol Cos. Grade 9. Hydroxyethyl cellulose" 10. Isopropyl isostearate 11. Isoprop•l lanolate 12. Isopropyl myristate 13. Karaya gum' 14. Lanolin (anhydrous, U.S.P.) 15. Lanolin alcohol acetate 16. Lanolin alcohol ethoxylated 17. Lanolin alcohols hydrocarbon extract 18. Lanolin isopropyl ester 19. Lecithin 20. Linoleic diethanolamide 21. Liquid lanolin 22. Liquid lanolin on magnesium carbonate 23. Liquid lanolin extract 24. Magnesium aluminum silicate" 25. Mineral oil 65/75 26. Mineral oil, heavy vise. 27. 2-Octyl dodecanol 28. Oleyl alcohol Cos. Grade 29. Peach kernel oil 30. Polyethylene glycol 1500 31. Polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether 32. Polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan monooleate 33. Polyalkylene glycol 34. Polyvinyl pyrrolidone • 35. Propylene glycol, U.S.P. 36. Seasame oil 37. Sorbitan monooleate 38. Squalane 39. Triethanolamine stearate dispersion in propy]ene glycol 40. Vegetable oil triglyceride Used as 5% solutions. All others 100%.