J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 26, 523-530 (November 1975) Some Properties of Ethoxylated Lanolin Derivatives and Their Effect on Cosmetic Application JUSTIN P. McCARTHY, B.S., and MITCHELL L. SCHLOSSMAN, B.S.* Presented May 10, 1974, Seminar, Chicago, Illinois Synopsis-The modification of selected LANOLIN ALCOHOLS with ETHYLENE OXIDE has produced many water and ALCOHOL SOLUBLE DERIVATIVES. Studies of some chemical and physical properties of these functional LANOLIN DERIVATIVES are presented. Physico-chemical measurements of critical micelie concentration (cmc), specific gravity, and viscosity (to the limit of their water solubility) of these derivatives are compared and discussed. The application of these materials in the so]ubilization of a selected group of perfume compounds is observed. A controlled experiment demonstrating the use of ETHOXYLATES in adjusting the viscosity .of a cosmetic gel shampoo is il- lustrated. References relating to pigment dispersions, solubilization of elected bacteriostats, and other phenomena are briefly reviewed. Some new data in these areas are given. INTRODUCTION The reaction of lanolin and lanolin alcohols with ethylene oxide produces water-soluble surface-active agents. It is known that the properties of these condensates vary with the length of their ethylene oxide chain. In general, as the ethylene oxide chain increases, the resultant product becomes more surface-active. By varying the aforementioned hydrophobe-hydrophile bal- ance, these derivatives have been known to display unusual properties and functions. In this paper, we will chemically describe these ethoxylates and discuss some of their properties. Specifically, such phenomena as critical mi- celie concentration (cmc), specific gravity, and viscosity will be high- lighted. Studies on solubilization and viscosity control involving these ethoxy- lares in cosmetic applications will be illustrated. dMalmstrom Chemical Corp., Linden, N.J. 07036. 523

524 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS EXPERI1VIENTAL A. The cmc was determined by the surface tension method (1) using distilled water as a solvent. Concentrations of 1 per cent and less of PEG-75 Lanolin, • PEG-75 Lanolin Oil, PEG-75 Lanolin Wax, Laneth-10 Acetate, Laneth-16, PEG-g4 Hydrogenated Lanolin, and Laneth-40, were prepared and the resultant solutions allowed to come to ambient temperature (9,3/ g5øC). A DuNuoy tensiometer* was employed and surface tension measure- ments were made. An average of three dial readings were taken to calcu- late surface tensions of each of the various solutions. Surface tension is re- ported in terms of dynes per centimeter. The surface tension of distilled •vater at ambient temperature was used as the calibration standard to calibrate the instrument prior to determining the surface tension of each of the un- known solutions. The cmc is that concentration range at which a sudden change in surface tension measurement occurs. B. Specific gravities of all the ethoxylates evaluated were determined us- ing the precision specific gravity chain balance.$ The instrument was first calibrated using distilled water. The glass cylinder was then dried and charged with the ethoxylate solution and placed in a 25øC water bath for 2 hours. The plummet was then submerged so that it could swing freely in the cylinder without touching the sides. The instrument was then adjusted so that it was balanced at which time the specific gravity could be read directly. C. Viscosity determinations to the limit of water solubility were done on a Brookfield Rotational viscometer. Model LVT.a Two spindles were used numbers 1 and g, both for standardizing the instrument and for the sam- ples. The instrument was operated at 30 rpm for standardization and at 60 rpm for the various concentrations of surfactant. D. The solubilization of perfume compounds study was initiated by our lab- oratories and prepared by International Flavors and Fragrances, Inc. (I.F.F.). • All tests were conducted in a g0:80 specially distilled alcohol (SDA) 40 ethanol/water medium using a 2 per cent h'agrance level. Four ethoxvlated lanolin derivatives were used as solubilizers at concentrations of 4 and 8, respectively. These were: (W) PEG-75 Lanolin oil (X) Laneth-10 Acetate (Y) Laneth-16 and (Z) PEG-75 Lanolin. Five popular perfume types were evaluated. They are described by I.F.F. as type A-aldehyde ester type B-aldehyde ester musk type C-alcohol al- •Ethoxylan 100, Lantrol AWS, Lanfrax WS55, Ethoxyol AC, Ethoxyol 16R, Ethoxyol 9.4, and Ethoxyol 40 Maimstrom Chemical Corp., Linden, N.J. 07036. tFisher Scientific Co., Inc., 711 Forbes Ave., Pittsburgh, Pa. 15219. •:Henry Troemner, Inc., Philadelphia, Pa. 19142. /SBrookfield Engineering Labs, 240 Cushing St., Stockton, Ma. 02072. •521 West 57th St., New York, N.Y. 10019.