ABSTRACTS 197 Development of Skin Lotion Based on Wine Component Aki Soejima, Kimio Shimamura, Hirofumi Kuwa- hara, Yutaka Aoki, Akinori Haratake, Takeshi Ike- moro, Cosmetics Laboratory, Basic Research Labo- ratory, Kanebo Ltd. Wine composition varies with the grape variety, time of harvest, soil composition, climate and wine- maker. And there have been many reports concern- ing the differences of wine composition. Major com- ponents of wine, such as alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs), glycerol and sugars, are also known as cos- metics ingredients. Although, the ability of AHAs to affect wrinkling have been reported, there was few report concerning the function and effect of wine on the skin. To develop novel skin treatment lotion, we analyzed various kinds of wine and dis- cussed its composition as skin treatment lotion. We confirmed that one of them possessed desirable fea- tures and function as a skin treatment lotion. And we also confirmed that ethylglucoside, one of typical ingredient of novel rot, markedly reduced the irri- tating side effects of AHAs. There results suggested that the possibility to develop novel skin treatment lotion based on wine composition. Application of Aroma Formation Mechanism of Plants to Odor Control Noriaki Oka*2, Takashi Ya*5, Masanori Okada•4, R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries Inc.'2'3'4 By studying the mechanism of aroma release in rose plants, we developed of a new effective method of harvesting the aroma from roses, and utilized this mechanism for controlling odor in several novel cos- metic and household products. After extracting aro- matic precursors from the residue of aroma produc- tion, we reacted them with commercial hydrolyric enzymes or sulfuric acid, followed by determining the quality and quantity of the f?agrance compounds obtained. We were successful in recovering aromatic materials from the aqueous residue following steam distillation of frozen Bulgarian roses. We believe that this method shows promise as a novel and very effective way of thoroughly extracting fragrance components. Understanding of this mechanism also allowed us to develop unique products. We incor- porated aromatic precursors (•-galactosides) into deodorant hair tonic, and detected aroma release from hair after the use of the tonic. We also imbed- ded disposable diapers with a combination of these aromatic precursors ([3-galactosides), clathrate fra- grances and deodorant powders. We found that the diapers could mask urine odor effectively for 24h. These experiments show that this mechanism for odor control has many practical applications in a variety of interesting products. Polymer Analysis by Improved Pyrolysis-Gas Chromatography Hyphenated with Foul. Spe- cific Detectors Kazuyoshi Nakahara, Seiichi Yoshida, Kazuo Ko- matsu, Katsumi Ishiwata, Okihiko Sakamoto, Ana- lytical Chemistry Section, Shiseido Basic Research Center A novel pyrolysis tube was constructed for pyrolysis- gas chromatography (Py-GC). Simplification of pre- treatment and reduction of operating time were achieved by use of the pyrolysis tube. Py-GC with an electron ionization mass spectrometer (Py-GC- EIMS), a chemical ionization mass spectrometer (Py-GC-CIMS), an atomic emission detector (Py- GC-AED) and infrared spectrometer (Py-GC-IR) were used to identify the pyrolysates produced by pyrolysis of polydimethylsiloxane (DMS). It was possible to have a detailed structure of DMS and volatile impurities included in DMS by the com- bined use of those specific detectors. Difference in retention time among the same pyrolysates which were obtained by those detectors was recognized. However, these difference was able to be corrected by retention index (RI) calculated retention times of normal saturated hydrocarbons appeared in a pyro- gram of polyethylene standard. Each relative stan- dard deviation (RSD) which was calculated by five RIs of the same peaks was less than 0.6%, therefore it was possible to construct "an unified pyrolysates library" which was based on RIs. M/Q ratios (M/Q) of three trimethylsiloxysilicates, which indicate mo- lecular ratios of M units to Q units, were calculated by conventional 29Si-NMR. And total carbon area/ total silicon area ratios (C/Si) were calculated by carbon and silicon pyrogram of Py-GC-AED. A lin- ear relationship (r = 0.9997) between M/Q ratio and C/Si ratio was recognized, therefore that relationship has enabled to establish calculating method of M/Q ratio by the use of Py-GC-AED. Establishment of method for identification of unknown pyrograms was attempted, however each reproducibility of match qualities evaluated by library search of total EIMS spectra obtained from total ion pyrograms of poly (acrylic acid) was slightly lower than expected value. It is necessary to determine the optimum conditions of total EIMS spectra and parameters of retrieval. Study on the Mechanisms Associated with Dark Circles Masayuki Matsumoto, Noriko Kobayashi, Osamu Hoshina, Seiichi Arai Cosmetics Laboratory, Kanebo Ltd.

198 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The factors that are conventionally suggested as be- ing responsible for the dark circles around the eyes include the retention of blood and poor circulation. In actual fact, however, reports of measurements of blood flow around the eyelid are scarce, and the literature is silent on research into any direct rela- tionship between dark circles and the kinetics of blood flow. In the present work, we used a laser Doppler flowmeter and depthprobe to measure at four different depths, the hemodynamic parameters of blood flow (Flow), mass (Mass), and velocity (Vel.), in a bid to elucidate the circulatory kinetics at the site of formation of dark circles. We also sought to shed more light on the phenomenon of dark circles by measuring skin color and skin surface temperature at the same site. In the periphery of the internal canthus, where dark circles are more readily formed, we found that blood mass (Mass) was high and blood velocity (Vel.) was slow at the skin sur- face. We also demonstrated that the retention of blood, conventionally regarded as occurring at the site of formation of dark circles, can be characterized by greater blood mass (Mass) and slower blood ve- locity (Vel.). As well, the skin brightness (L*) was low in the periphery of the internal canthus, and was correlated with blood mass (Mass), suggesting that retention of blood in the surface of the skin may be a significant factor in the development of dark circles. The Relationship between Moisture Content of Human Fingernails and the Mechanical Proper- ties of the Fingernail (Part 3) Tooru Sugawara, Mizue Kawai, Toshiyuki Suzuki, Cosmetic Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation It is well known that nail damages such as yellow- ing, split nails and peeled nails (onychoschisis) is caused by continuous use of nail enamel for a long period. Within serious nail damages, we aimed at split nails and peeled nails and basically investigated the effect of organic solvents on fingernail moisture content and the mechanical properties to make clear the factors affecting those nail damages. As a result, the change in fingernail volume of fingernail dipped in water was much more considerable than that dipped in organic solvents. It is suggested that the fingernails dipped in organic solvents is harder and brittler than the fingernails dipped in water from the result of E' and tan of the fingernails dipped in water and organic solvents. Moreover we proposed the mechanism of the split nails caused by organic solvents. Optical Characteristic of Zirconia Coated Spherical Complex Silica and Application to Cosmetic Foundations Motoaki Ito, Noboru Nagatani, Masahiko Asahi, Toshiyuki Suzuki, Skin Care Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation One of the important functions for cosmetic foun- dations is to conceal pores of the skin. In order to search for powders that can both conceal pores and provide a natural finish, we evaluated various pow- ders by measuring the chrominance and luminosity. As a result, the zirconia coated spherical silica in- cluding titania (TSZ) was the most effective powder. The reasons for the effectiveness of TSZ were as- sumed as follows: (1) the optical characteristic due to the complex structure consisting of a high refrac- tive index inclusion which provides coverage, and a moderate refractive index substance which covers the outmost layer (2) the spherical shape allowing it to be applied in the pores selectively. By applying TSZ to cosmetic foundations, we obtained products that conceal pores effectively and yet offer natural finish.