j. Cosmet. Sci., 52, 195-198 (May/June 2001) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Volume 34, No. 1, 2000 Non-Invasive Techniques to Measure Physi- ological Properties of the Skin and Their Ap- plication to Efficacy Test of Skin Care Products Motoji Takahashi, Research Center, Shiseido Co., Ltd. Many techniques have been developed to measure non-invasively ranging from physical to physiologi- cal properties of the skin i.e. mechanical, electrical, thermal, optical, photoacoustic properties, perspira- tion, sebum secretion, blood flow, and skin meta- bolic rate. They are applied to the efficacy test of cosmetic products and ingredients, or to the exami- nation and the classification of skin condition. In this paper each method which measure skin surface topography, skin hydration, barrier function, turn- over time of stratum corneum, parakeratosis, free amino acids in stratum corneum, wrinkle, spots and skin internal structure (ultrasound techniques and in vivo confocal microscopy) is described from the standpoint of the principle and application. Fragrances and Their Special Properties-- Antibacterial and Antioxidant Activity of Fra- grance Materials and Aromas Used as a Tool of Non-Verbal Communication-- Toru Asakoshi, Fragrance Institute, T. Hasegawa Co., Ltd. In general, odors are everything one can sense while aromas are something which will give comfort and relaxation. Whether particular aroma is said to be good or bad will largely depend on ones' own per- sonal experiences or cultural background. Fragrance materials are narrowly defined as products handled by the fragrance industry, while more broadly, they are everything which will bring about aromas. Pri- mary objective of the use of fragrance materials in the final products is of course to help enhance an artistic value, attractiveness or comforthess of such products. This is basically what the fragrances are for. In addition to these, they also possess many other functions. Of these, I will discuss the antibac- terial and antioxidantive aspects which are said to be two of the most representative functions. As we be- come more keenly aware now that we are being exposed to the counterattack by microorganisms and to the harmful sunlight or being damaged by the oxygen, the studies on these characteristics are get- ting attention among researchers. As the same time, I will discuss also the role of aromas in terms of non-verbal communication as viewed in a cultural context. It should be reminded once again that the very basic and essential function of fragrance mate- rials is after all to give aromas. Development of New Evaluation Method for Whitening Agents by Using the Effect of t•-MSH or Endothelin-1 on Normal Melanocytes Yasunobu Ochiai, Kousuke Torii, Yuri Okano, Hi- toshi Masaki, Kobe Research Laboratory, NOEVIR Co., Ltd. It has been reported that o•-MSH and Endothelin-1, which are secreted from keratinocytes or melano- cytes by UV irradiation, are responsible for the pig- mentation of skin according to the increasing of tyrosinase activity. To prevent or improve the pig- mentation due to UV-irradiation, we notice the blocking of the actions induced by o•-MSH or En- dothelin-1. In this study, we established a conve- * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 195

196 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE nient evaluation method for the blocking of the cy- tokine-induced reactions. The tyrosinase activity in normal human melanocytes was used as an index of the cytokine-induced reaction. With this method, it was found that certain plant extracts showed the blocking effect for increasing tyrosinase activity, Ar- temisia capillaris Thunberg and Sanguisorba offici- nalis L. for ot-MSH and Achillea millefolium L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Eupatorium fortunei Turcz, Polygonum cuspidatum Sieb. and Thymus vulgaris L. for Endothelin-1. No alterations of these plants on tyrosinase activity in normal human me- lanocytes suggested that the blocking on the cyto- kine action contributed to their effects. A Novel Technique for Preventing Pigment Sedimentation in Nail Enamels Kazuhiro Ishida, Masaki Okuyama, Yuki Mizutani, Shigeyoshi Momose, Product Development Re- search Laboratory, Fundamental Research Labora- tory, KOSE Corporation To prevent sedimentation of inorganic pigments used in nail enamels, we studied a surface treatment of the pigment, using a titanium dioxide. We se- lected a variety of fluorides to improve the electro- static repulsion by the pigment's surface clnarge and adsorption of resins on the pigment surface. The result indicated that the pigments had excellent electrostatic repulsion as well as excellent resin ad- sorption. Our experiments with pigment dispersion containing these pigments confirmed that the par- ticle diameter did not change with time and that pigment aggregation did not occur. Nail enamels formulated with these pigments offer extremely stable dispersion. Within this group, pigments sur- face treated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate were the most effective in preventing sedimentation and that a dispersion stability of 5 times or longer than the conventional life cycle could be obtained. Theory and Its Practical Application for Perma- nent Hair Straightening Satoshi Ogawa, Kazuki Fujii, Katsumi Kaneyama, Kozo Arai, Kyohei Joko, Research and Development Center, Milbon Co. Ltd., Kyoto Women's Junior College, Kyoto Women's University A method for permanent hair straightening was studied by applying a lneat iron technique to the hairs reduced with a solution containing tlniogly- colic acid (TGA) and dithiodiglycolic acid (DTDG) before oxidation treatment. The effectiveness of straightening was evaluated as a function of the de- gree of supercontraction observed on the treatment hairs, which was greatly dependent on pH and tlne concentrations of TGA and DTDG in reducing sys- tem. On the experimental and practical bases, a range of around 5 to 8% supercontraction was found to be necessary to achieve successful permanent hair straightening. High pressure differential scanning calorimetry was used to estimate the a-helix con- tent. From the relationship between the melting enthalpy and the degree of supercontraction of the hair, an important suggestion was made that the supercontraction within 10%--is caused by the ran- domization of the a-helix, and permanency related to the hair straiglntening is a result of the transfor- mation of a-crystal phase into amorphous plnase. Volume 34, No. 2, 2000 Guiding Principles for R&D of Materials Hiroaki Yanagida, Research Institute, Japan Fine Ceramics Center Demerit of recent and a so-called advanced technol- ogy is frequently observed since some of them is too much complicated. Plain technology is friendly to environment and people. Guiding principles for R&D of materials based upon priorities given to brevity are explained. Logo-mark of Ken-Materials Research Consortium consists of words with Chinese characters pronounced as "Ken." Those involve wis- dom of autonomy, structural reliability, functional capability, integration, simplicity, soundness and environmental friendliness. This teclnnological movement aims establishment of techno-democracy. Functional Silicones in Cosmetic Applications Tetsuo Nakanishi, Silicone-Electronics Materials Research Center, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. As utilizing unique properties of the silicones, they had the achievements to be widely used by many industry fields. And it also made a contribution to improvements in various fields of cosmetics. The silicones, lnowever, were used for only additives or substitutes in the cosmetic applications. We have energetically studied the silicone resins and pow- ders. We finally succeeded in the development of unique silicone products for main ingredients of cos- metics, which obtained a characteristic and function tinat could not achieve by current technology. With this general remarks, we give an overview of various silicone products and details of the newly developed acryl silicone resins and powders.