2003 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC MEETING 8. J. V. Gruber, F. M. Winnick, A. Lapierre, N. D. Kha)oo, N. Joshi, P. N. Konish. /. Cosmet. Sci., 52, l 19-129, 2001 9. H.-D. Weigmann, Y. K. Karnath, S. B. Ruetsch, P. Busch, H. Tesmann, J. Soc. Cosme!. Chem., 41, 379-390, 1990 IO. M. L. Tate, Y. K. Karnath, S. B. Ruetsch, H.-D. Weigmann, J. Soc. Cosme!. Chem., 44. 347-371, 1993 l 1. S. Jindal, Presentation at the HBA Global 2002 Product Development Co11fere11ce, 2002 12. M. Gamez-Garcia, J. V. Gruber, F. M. Winnik, B. R. Lamoureux, Proceedi11gs XX/st IFSCC /ntemario11al Congress 2000, Berlin, 176-183 Fig 2 H•lur•I Sc.•nrung Electron Mt ro•c.opy kTl•ge1 ot Bi.ached EutopHn .._d,um Brown Hair aftu Sh•mpoo Treatmene Cond,,ioning Polymer E 2,000X 2,000X 2.000X 2.000X Fig • Confocal Luer S�at'ln1ng Microscopy Reflecte-d light Images of Shampooed. BJ.ache,d European Medium Brown Hilut after 2nd Shampoo Conditioning Polymer E F,g 3 Confocal LHIM Su,nnrng Microscopy Ren.tt•d L..,t lmaoH of BM.ached Europ•an Med1um Brown Hair aft•r Sriampoo Tre,1bnan1 Condi1ton1ng Polymer F G F1v 5 Conlo,cal Uaar Sunning M1cros.copy Fluorescent• lmav•• ol Ble-.ae.Md EuroJW•n Medium Brown Ma,r aNll!r Pclymu •nd S..FAM TrHtmerit Concu1,on,ng Polyme-r 127

128 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE IMAGE ANALYSIS OF HAIR TREATED WITH STYLING PRODUCTS Roger McMullen and Janusz Jachowicz, Ph.D. International Speciality Products, Wliyne, New Jersey Introduction In a previous report [ 1 ], we described the measurements of luster for various types of hair by quantifying the intensity of light reflected from hair fibers spread over a cylindrical surface and illuminated with a collimated beam of light. Such an experimental set-up allows one to obtain reflected light distribution curves similar to those typically generated by goniophotometers. By analyzing the shape of the reflection curves and by calculating luster parameters we were able to investigate the effect of polymer and oil treatments on the luster of hair. In this paper we have explored the application of Image Analysis to analyze hair treated with complete cosmetic formulations such as hair gels, hair creams, hair sprays, and hair conditioners which were applied to hair in a manner similar to that employed by an average consumer. We have performed measurements on both idealized geometrical arrangements of straight hair spread over a cylindrical surface as well as on a free hanging hair tresses illuminated by a collimated light. Image analysis also allowed us to quantitatively characterize the luster of tresses with hair types characterized as frizzy, curly, and very curly hair before and after treatment with hair care products. Curly and very curly hair was studied by measuring light reflection profiles, which allowed for the calculation of specular/diffuse light intensities and luster parameters. All three types of hair were also studied using an image threshold technique, which permitted ranking them according to the absolute and relative content of specular reflections. We have also used images of hair fibers spread over a cylindrical surface and illuminated with a collimated light to analyze subtle color changes in hair treated with colorless styling products. lbis was achieved using the image processing package, Adobe PhotoShop. Using such an approach, it is possible to obtain histograms of the various components of light (blue, red, and green as well as the total luminance) in an image obtained under strictly defined and reproducible illumination and geometrical conditions. Methods Hair Samples Luster analysis was performed on straight, natural light brown and dark brown hair of Caucasian origin purchased from IHI & Products, Inc. (Valhalla, NY). In addition to this, we utilized frizzy, curly, and very curly hair of Caucasian origin supplied by IHI & Products, Inc. (Valhalla, NY). Hair samples were pre­ cleaned with a 3 % ALS solution and thoroughly rinsed prior to experimentation. Luster Measurements The luster evaluation apparatus and procedures used in this study were described previously [l]. An Olympus Camedia ElO digital camera with a front-element auxiliary macro lens was employed to collect images of illuminated hair, typically one or two tresses, from a distance of IO inches. We scanned the light intensity parallel to the fiber axes of a hair tress by employing Image Analysis software (Sigma Scan Pro 5.0). Image Color Measurements Analysis of image histograms was accomplished by importing the images obtained for luster analysis into Adobe Photoshop 6.0. Histograms for luminosity, red, green, and blue were obtained and the positions of peak maxima were recorded. Results We sought to characterize the changes in luster and color produced by applying to hair a series of products which included a gel, hair spray, cream lotion, and a conditioner. The products caused a change in the intrinsic luster of hair as measured by a method involving the use of straight hair in circular configuration. This change was quantified by determining two well known luster parameters, Ls1amm and LRobblns-Reich, on both dark brown and light brown hair. The results suggested that the use of light brown hair can underscore the luster enhancing effect of films, deposited by cosmetic products, on the surface of hair.