JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 592 Manufacturing procedure: In a suitable container, Part A ingredients are added and heated to 68°C–72°C. In a side container, ingredients of part B are premixed and heated to 68°C–72°C. When Part A and Part B reach the desired temperature, Part B is slowly added into Part A and mixed well and/or milled if desired. In a separate container, Part C is premixed until uniform. When the main batch is below 50°C, Part C is added and mixed well. Cooling of the batch continues. When the main batch is below 30°C, Part D is added and mixed until it is completely smooth and uniform. An increase of the shear may be necessary to overcome accumulation. Part E is premixed and added to the main batch with continuing mixing. The rest of the ingredients are added and mixed until uniform. Table II Graphical UVA Rating Based on Category Combined category rating Star rating Low œœœ Medium œœ High œ Highest  Table III Experimental Sunscreen N Part INCI-Name/USAN Supplier % w/w (as supplied) A Water q.s Disodium EDTA Fluka 0.10 PEG-8 Jeen International 1.00 Butylene glycol Fluka 2.50 B Dibutyl adipate Cognis 3.00 Steareth-2 Lipo 0.75 Steareth-20 Lipo 1.00 Isodecyl neopentanoate ISP 1.50 PEG-100 stearate Lipo 1.75 Cetearyl alcohol Croda 2.50 Bemotrizinole (USAN) Ciba 2.00 Octocrylene ISP 2.30 Avobenzone DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. 3.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate Finitex 2.00 Isononyl isononanoate Alzo International, Inc. 1.50 Cetyl lactate Lipo 0.75 Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate Symrise 1.75 Isopropyl myristate Cognis 1.50 C Water 20.00 Bisoctrizole (USAN) Ciba 12.00 Acrylates/C12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer ISP 1.00 D Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) PPG-l trideceth-6 Ciba 0.80 E Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol Dow Corning 0.80 Isododecane (and) dimethicone corsspolymer-3 Jeen International 0.36 F Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin S&M 0.65 Fragrance q.s
CHALLENGES TO SUNSCREEN EVALUATION 593 (B) Experimental sunscreen P (Table IV) Technical data: pH = 4.75-5.75 viscosity (Brookfi eld DV II + T-D @ 3rpm) = 20,000– 45,000 cps. Manufacturing procedure: In a suitable container with an appropriate mixer, ingredi- ents in Part A are added and heated to 68°C–73°C. In a side container, ingredients of Part B are mixed and heated to 68°C–73°C. When Parts A and B are at the indicated temperature, Part B is slowly added into part A and mixed well and/or milled if de- sired. In a side container, ingredients of Part C are blended until uniform. When the main batch is below 50°C, Part C is added and mixed well. Cooling of the batch con- tinues. When the main batch is below 30°C, Part D is added and mixed well until it is completely smooth and uniform. Ingredients of part E are preblended, added to the main batch, and mixed well. The rest of the ingredients are added separately and mixed until uniform. EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Experimental data are presented in Figures 3-4 and Tables III-V. Figure 3 illustrates poten- tial limitations of the proposed roughened quartz substrate that are apparent even for SPF Table IV Experimental Sunscreen P Part INCI-Name/USAN Supplier % w/w (as supplied) A Water q.s Disodium EDTA Fluka 0.10 PEG-8 Jeen International 1.00 Butylene glycol Fluka 2.40 B Dibutyl adipate Cognis 3.00 Steareth-20 Lipo 0.80 Steareth-2 Lipo 0.50 Isodecyl neopentanoate ISP 2.00 PEG-100 stearate Lipo 2.55 Bemotrizinole (USAN) Ciba 2.30 Octocrylene ISP 2.00 Avobenzone DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. 3.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate Finitex 2.50 Isononyl isononanoate Alzo International Inc. 2.00 Cetyl lactate Lipo 0.75 Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate Symrise 1.75 Isopropyl myristate Cognis 1.60 C Water 20.00 Bisoctrizole (USAN) Ciba 7.00 Acrylates/C12-22 alkylmethacrylate copolymer ISP 1.00 D Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) hydrogenated polydecene (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 Ciba 1.00 E Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol Dow Corning 0.90 Isododecane and dimethicone crosspolymer-3 Jeen International 0.50 F Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin S&M 0.80 Fragrance q.s
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