JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 284 Application of foundation containing Wild Plum dramatically improved the overall appearance of the skin. Figure 3 shows a 62-year old female without makeup (left), with makeup (center), and with makeup that contains Wild Plum (right). Figure 4 shows the visual grading wrinkle scores on a ten-point monadic scale (n = 10). The average score for the face image without makeup is 5.6 for the face image with makeup, it is 4.9 and for the face image with makeup containing Wild Plum, it is 2.7. This represents a signifi cant visual appearance of wrinkle decrease. Paired images showing the same part of the face were compared for consistency. In all cases, the difference between no makeup and makeup not containing Wild Plum was not statistically signifi cant Figure 3. A 62-year-old female (left) wearing no makeup (center) wearing commercial makeup and (right) wearing commercial makeup formulated with Wild Plum. Figure 4. Results from an interview comparing images without makeup, with makeup, and with makeup containing Wild Plum using a ten-point monadic scale, with one [1] representing the fewest, least prominent wrinkles and ten [10] showing the maximum of wrinkles. n = 10. Error bars represent standard deviation.
WILD PLUM IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS 285 ( p 0.05). However, comparisons between images without Wild Plum compared to images with Wild Plum were statistically signifi cant ( p 0.05). In many cases, inclusion of Wild Plum made a very signifi cant ( p 0.001) visual difference on the visual monadic scale. The cosmetics industry uses nearly insoluble or encapsulated materials in order to protect color and luminosity (22,23). However, caking can become a problem with insoluble particles, and if encapsulation is used, sacrifi ce of color may occur. Hence, the need per- sists for cosmetic formulations that not only hide the appearance of wrinkles and lines, but also enhance the glow of youthful skin. Wild Plum is insoluble in water, oil, and other common solvents used in cosmetic formulations, but can be solubilized in detergents like SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate) and nonionic surfactants like Triton-X100, allowing easy removal from skin by washing with soapy water. Caking does not occur with Wild Plum, as low concentrations are able to give the desired effect. This allows for optimal formula- tion conditions, as washing away or leaching of Wild Plum becomes irrelevant. Thus, the new photoluminescent Wild Plum is versatile in application and has been designed to eliminate dullness or the lack of luminosity often seen in aged and photodamaged skin (4). WILD PLUM VERSATILITY The Wild Plum compound is photoluminescent, displaying a glow of intense blue color. In Figure 5, a gradient of blue fl uorescence is apparent when Wild Plum is formulated into a commercial foundation at different concentrations. Wild Plum was also co-mixed with light-scattering materials that have refractive indices close to that of skin at 1.5–1.6 for the “soft-focus effect” (17,18). Such materials include talcum powder, titanium dioxide, barium sulfate, and pearlescent pigments. Each pow- der can be used independently or combined to create unique shades specifi c to the desired application. The versatility of Wild Plum affords incorporation into a variety of cosmetic formulations without affecting the consistency, thickness, viscosity, or color of the formu- lation. Figure 5 also shows that Wild Plum can be used at concentrations as low as 0.02%, which shows that it can be used in existing formulations without signifi cantly changing their properties after addition. Figure 5. (Left) Wild Plum powders in different shades of color. (Right) Intense blue fl uorescence of Wild Plum incorporated into commercial foundation at 2%, 0.2%, 0.02%, and the control commercial foundation without Wild Plum (from left to right) excited at 365 nm with a UV lamp.
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