J. Cosmet. Sci., 69, 187–202 (May/June 2018) 187 Insects as an Alternative Source for the Production of Fats for Cosmetics GEERT R. VERHEYEN, TOM OOMS, LIESBETH VOGELS, STEVEN VREYSEN, ANN BOVY, SABINE VAN MIERT, and FILIP MEERSMAN, RADIUS Lab, Thomas More University College— Campus Kempen, Geel 2440, Belgium (G.R.V., T.O., L.V., S.V., and S.V.M.), Mylène NV, Heist-op-den-Berg 2220, Belgium (A.B. and F.M.), Biomolecular and Analytical Mass Spectrometry, Department of Chemistry, University of Antwerp, Antwerpen 2020, Belgium (F.M.) Accepted for publication March 28, 2018. Synopsis Insects may provide an environmentally friendly way of producing high-quality bio-based materials that can be implemented for cosmetic applications. Insects can be bred on organic waste, in high numbers, and on small surfaces, therefore, making large scale industrial breeding possible. Fats from three insect species: the black soldier fl y (BSF) (Hermetia illucens), the locust (Locusta migratoria), and the house cricket (Acheta domesticus) were evaluated for potential use in skin care. Insects were dried and fats were extracted using petroleum ether. The fats were further refi ned, and the fatty acid composition and the acid value were determined. The fats were used in a hand cream formulation and compared with the currently used mink-and plant-derived oils. Fatty acid analysis indicates that BSF contains 60% of lauric acid, which makes it less suitable for application in a skin-care product, whereas locust and cricket fats are rich in C16 and C18 fatty acids which makes them more suitable. Phospholipids and free fatty acid levels in the three insect species are relatively high compared with commercial, refi ned oils, and need to be removed by appropriate refi ning protocols. Odor and color also need to be removed by physical refi nement to improve the applicability. INTRODUCTION In the modern industry, the development of novel materials and products with little im- pact on the environment and of no concern for human health is of crucial importance. The search for novel materials is not only driven by the decline in fossil resources that will eventually become limited but also by the impact that human activities have on the planet, e.g., in waste production and overexploitation of natural sources. As an alternative to fossil oil, the industry is increasingly using plant material as a source for oleochemical applications (1). Although at fi rst sight this may seem an environmentally friendly source of oil production, its impact on the environment is considerable (2) as the increase in demand for vegetable oils and biofuels contributes to tropical deforestation, habitat Address all correspondence to Geert R. Verheyen at geert.verheyen@thomasmore.be.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 188 fragmentation, and loss in biodiversity (3,4). Therefore, research into alternative sources of bio-based chemicals is needed. Another large impact of human activities on our planet is the production of food and re- sulting associated waste, such as organic food-waste streams. Studies suggest that food production needs to increase dramatically to keep pace with projected demands from population growth, dietary change (meat use), and increasing bioenergy use (5,6). Al- though several potential solutions to these problems are being investigated, food produc- tion also generates large food waste streams that should be better exploited. If these wastes can be converted into profi table biomass, then the ecological burden that waste poses may decline. Insects may contribute to the development of this circular economy, and they already fi nd implementation in the food and feed sectors. Although insect consumption is com- mon in large parts of the world, this is not an established practice in the western world. However, insect consumption may have a large impact on food/feed-associated prob- lems, and therefore, work is done to demonstrate the potential of edible insects to the regulatory agencies (7). Another application of insects can be as a source of biomaterials, such as fats, proteins, and chitin. These broad fractions of biomaterials may fi nd diverse use in the industry (chemical). Coupling the breeding of the insects to waste stream reduction (8), insects may become a sustainable alternative in the production of biomaterials, such as fats and oils. An example is the work being done on the black soldier fl y (BSF, Hermetia illucens). BSF are relatively easy to breed in large quantities on small surfaces. The larvae can be easily bred on organic waste streams (9) and the resulting fats are being explored for their potential use in biofuels (10,11). Also chitin, extracted from BSF, can be modifi ed into chitosan. This molecule has antimicrobial activity that may fi nd application in several areas, including food and nutrition biotechnology material science and pharmaceuticals (12). Other insect species that are commonly investigated are the house cricket (Acheta domesticus) and the locust (Locusta migratoria) (13). The house cricket is usually grown on pet food (fi sh food/cat food) under lab conditions, but they can also be bred on organic vegetable wastes. Locusts are bred on grass, which may pose an issue for breeding during winter in northern countries, but still, a case can be made to use locusts in the reduction of the large amounts of grass waste that are produced yearly with no relevant application. Fats and oils are commonly used in cosmetics, where they are a major component of creams for skin care. Triglycerides typically act as emollients that soften the skin (14). Indirectly, they will also moisturize the skin by reducing the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (15). Depending on the fatty acid profi le, the properties of the fats can vary and the healing (e.g., using linoleic acid for dry skin) or skin-protective functions of the creams can be enhanced. The fats are also used to increase the viscosity of the formulation or for their emulsifying properties (16). From a skin-care point of view, mink-fats have a favorable fatty acid profi le and have therefore been traditionally used in many skin-care formulations. Although the mink oil can be seen as a side stream derived from mink fur industry, ethical objections arise toward the use of minks for their fur. Other sources of useful fats need to be explored. Macadamia nut oil, which has a similar fatty acid profi le as mink oil, has been shown to present a suitable source of oils for cosmetics. However, issues may arise with the use of edible oils cultivated on valuable land for nonfood/feed