INSECT FATS FOR COSMETICS 193 The hand cream was prepared according to the following protocol. All components of the various phases were weighed separately. Next, the oil and aqueous phases, phases 1 and 2 respectively, were heated to 75°C. Once this temperature was reached, phase 1 was gradually added to phase 2 while mixing with a Silverson mixer until a homogeneous cream was obtained. This cream was left to cool down to 30°C at which point phase 3 was added. The rise in pH due to the addition of 30% NaOH will cause the acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer to thicken the cream. Finally, once the hand cream was at room temperature the fourth phase component, phenylpropanol, which serves together with methylpropanediol and caprylyl glycol as preservative, was added. The pH of the cream should be between pH 5 and 6. If not, the pH is adjusted using 30% NaOH solu- tion or 50% citric acid solution. STABILITY TESTING OF HAND CREAMS Hand creams containing 1%, 2%, 4%, 5%, and 10% of insect fat were formulated and placed in incubators at 5°C and 45°C, and also kept at room temperature (21°C). At regular time intervals, up to 8 weeks, color, odor, and aspect were evaluated. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION EXTRACTION AND REFINING OF INSECT FATS After harvesting, the insects were dried at 65°C until constant weight before extraction. Starting from whole insects, the average percentage of fats to dry weight (regardless of Table I Hand Cream Composition (Th e Fat % x Can Be 1, 2, 5 or 10 %) INCI Function % Supplier Phase 1 Glyceryl stearate Emulisfi er 2–3 Gattefossé Behenyl alcohol Viscosity enhancer/stabilizer 2–3 BTC Europe Cetyl Phosphate Emulsifi er 1–2 DSM Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Emollient 2–3 Mosselman Fat/oil x — Dimethicone Emollient 1–2 BRB International Phase 2 Aqua q.s. — Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Viscosity enhancer/stabilizer 0.3–0.5 Lubrizol Glycerin Emollient/moisturizer 3–4 Vivochem Methylpropanediol Emollient 3–4 Stearinerie Dubois Caprylyl Glycol Wetting agent with strong antimicrobial properties 0.3–0.6 Dr Straetmans Disodium EDTA Chelator 0.02 BTC Europe Phase 3 Aqua 5 — Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster 0.6 Brenntag Phase 4 Phenylpropanol Fragrance ingredient with antimicrobial activity 0.1–0.2 Dr Straetmans

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 194 the starting amount) is shown in Table II. The number of extractions that were performed is given within brackets. For locusts only, one large batch extraction on 1.787 kg dry material was performed. FRACTIONATION OF FAT AND TLC ANALYSIS A BSF sample was fractionated according to a slight modifi cation of the protocol pub- lished by Kaluzny et al. (19). In Figure 1, a TLC image is shown in which fats of BSF, cricket, locust as well as other oils that are applied in cosmetics (mink oil vegetal oil Table II Yield (Average Percentage) of Raw Fats Extracted from BSF, House Cricket and Locust Species Average % yield (Soxhlet) Average % yield (large extraction) BSF 33.9 (N = 9) 27.2 (N = 3) House cricket 20 (N = 3) 15 (N = 2) Locust 22.5 (N = 6) 17.3 (N = 1) Soxhlet method versus large batch extraction. Figure 1. TLC of insect fat s and fractions of BSF fat. Lanes: BSF (samples 1, 2, 15) cricket (3) locust (4) mink oil (5) macadamia nut oil (6) vegetal oil (7) fractionated BSF fractions: FFAs (8) phospholipids (9) cholesteryl esters (10) triglycerides (11) cholesterol (12) diglycerides (13) monoglycerides (14).