Contents Page Preface Trefor A. Evans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Hair Mechanical Anisotropy — What Does It Tell Us? Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker, and Crisan Popescu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Bridging the “Dead Hair” — “Live Follicle” Divide in Applied Hair Research Marta Bertolini, Natalia Botchkareva, Gill Westgate, Chris Ward, Paul Cornwell, and Ralf Paus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 Hair Shaft Formation and Mitochondrial Bioenergetics: Combining Biology, Chemistry, and Physics Yi Shan Lim, Duane P. Harland, and Thomas L. Dawson, Jr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Morphological Changes of Human Hair Related to “Graying” Lorena Bechthold, Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche, and Franz J. Wortmann. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Role of Internal Lipids in Hair Health Jennifer M. Marsh, Shane Whitaker, Tim Felts, William Shearouse, Mike Vatter, Arto Määttä, Matthew Thompson, and Timothy J. Hawkins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Investigating Prevention of UV Damage to Hair Using Raman Spectroscopy Carrie B. Grundman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 Fragrance Retention in Virgin and Bleached Caucasian Hair André Medice, Carolina Lourenço, Rebeca Gasparin, Adelino Nakano, and Anita J. Marsaioli In memoriam: Inés Joekes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Quantifying Hair Motion Trefor A. Evans and Sebastien Breugnot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Quasi-Static Torsional Deformation of Single Hair Fibers: Application of a Modeling Approach and Results from Cosmetic Treatments R. Lunn, Y. Leray, S. Bucknell, and D. Stringer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Applying Light Scattering Theory to Measure Rinsability of Hair Conditioners Selene Velez, Sarah Heether, Jung-Mei Tien, and Farahdia Edouard. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 Note: These proceedings have been edited only for conformity to journal format by the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The text of the articles is presented here as submitted by TRI/Princeton.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 69, 301 (September/October 2018) 301 Preface The International Conference on Applied Hair Science is organized by TRI-Princeton on an every-other-year time basis. The goal is to bring together hair scientists and researchers from around the globe to share fi ndings, ideas, and discoveries. The eighth iteration of this event was held on the sixth and seventh June 2018 at the Oyster Point hotel in Red Bank, New Jersey. The event consisted of 22 podium presentations by speakers from seven different coun- tries. A poster session attracted a further 18 submissions. Presentations were slotted into four sessions dedicated to Hair Biology Insights into Hair Structure Hair Insults and Protection and New Methods. A general overall theme of the meeting involved an attempt to bridge the gap between hair biologists, who study the “live” follicular activity, and material scientists and chem- ists who study the remarkable structure of the resulting “dead” fi bers. Historically, these two groups of scientists have each attended their own meetings, and interactions have accordingly been relatively infrequent. This event consequently produced some unique discussions. This special edition of Journal of Cosmetic Science features 10 articles based on talks given at this conference–and consists of submissions from each of the aforementioned four sessions. These papers illustrate the diversity of the event by describing work in the areas of hair biology, physical and mechanical properties, structural considerations, fragrance interaction with hair, etc. Similarly, articles were penned by authors from academia, end good companies, ingredient suppliers, and instrument manufacturers. TRI would like to thank everyone who helped make the eighth International Conference on Applied Hair Science a resounding success. This includes the organizing committee, sponsors, presenters, and participants. See you all in 2020! TREFOR A. EVANS Director of Research and Institute Fellow at TRI-Princeton Chairman of 8th International Conference on Applied Hair Science