FRAGRANCE RETENTION IN HAIR 369 CONCLUSIONS The results presented herein indicate that bleaching process provokes deep damage in hair structures, altering its properties of interaction with materials. Fragrance deposition by washing with shampoo is greater on bleached hair in than on virgin hair (at least 40.0% more abundance for ethyl 2-methylbutanoate, 16.9% for linalool, 20.2% for benzyl acetate, and 24.6% for Mintonat). This behavior was attributed to the increase of interac- tion surface after hole formation in the cortex with dissolution of melanin granules, to the damage in hair structure that increased both intercellular and transcellular diffusion, and to the increase of affi nity between hair fi ber and fragrance compounds with the increase of the polar character of hair after the oxidation of cysteine groups. This last observation is in accordance with the results obtained for the deposition of rhodamine B on hair. Nev- ertheless, the amount of fragrance materials decreases faster in bleached hair, and this behavior also attributed to the diffusion increase caused by damages in hair structure after chemical bleaching. The results observed for the interaction of fragrance with hair are in accordance with the results obtained for the moisture desorption that was at least 28.1 mgwater.ghair-1 greater on bleached hair but showed no difference after 19 h at RU 0% in comparison with virgin hair. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AJM is thankful to Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo for fi nancial sup- port (grant 2014/50249-9 and 2018/07978-0) and to CNPq (grant 309885/2013-5). André Medice is thankful for the Symrise scholarship. Figure 2. Water desorption from virgin (red fi lled circle) and bleached hair for 40 min (black fi lled square) as a function of period of drying (RU 0%, at 21°C).

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 370 REFERENCES (1) T. Stora, S. Escher, and A. Morris, The physicochemical basis of perfume performance in consumer products, Chimia, 55, 406–412 (2001). (2) D. H. Pybus and C. S. Shell, The Ch emistry of Fragrances (RSC Paperbacks, Ashford, England, 1999). (3) C. R. Robbins, Chemical and Physica l Behavior of Human Hair, 5th Ed. (Springer-Verlag, Switzerland, AG, 2012). (4) H. Zahn, S. Hilterhaus, and A. Strü ssmann, Bleaching and permanent waving aspects of hair research, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chem., 37, 159–175 (1986). (5) J. M. Blakeway and M. Seu-Salerno, S ubstantivity of perfume materials to hair, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 5, 15–23 (1983). (6) M. Richena, M. Silveira, C.A. Rezend e, and I. Joekes, Yellowing and bleaching of grey hair caused by photo and thermal degradation, J. Photochem. Photobiol. B, 138, 172–181 (2014). (7) W. M. Haynes, CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics. Thermophysics Division, National Institute of Standards and Technology, 93rd ed., Internet Version 2013, Section 15, 33. (8) F.-J. Wortmann, C. Springob, and G. Sendelbach, Investigations of cosmetically treated human hair by differential scanning calorimetry in water, J. Cosmet. Sci., 53, 219–228, (2002). (9) F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, Charact erizing keratins using high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC), J. Appl. Polym. Sci., 48, 137–150 (1993). (10) F.-J. Wortmann and H. Deutz, Therma l analysis of ortho- and para-cortical cells isolated from wool fi bers, J. Appl. Polym. Sci., 68, 1991–1995 (1998). (11) L. Pötsch and M. R. Moeller, On pat hway for small molecules into and out of human hair fi bers, J. Forensic. Sci., 41, 121–125 (1996). (12) S. B. Ruetsch, Y. Kamath, and H. D. Weigmann, Photodegradation of human hair: an SEM study, J. Cosmet. Sci., 51, 103–125 (2000). (13) L. J. Wolfram, K. Hall, and I. Hui, The mechanism of hair bleaching, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 21, 875–900 (1970). (14) C. R. Robbins and C. B. S. Kelly, Am ino acids analysis of cosmetically altered hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 20, 555–564 (1969). (15) L. Pauling, The adsorption of water b y proteins, J. Am. Chem. Soc., 67, 555–557 (1945).