J. Cosmet. Sci., 70, 277–289 (November/December 2019) 277 Assessment of the Effect of Extract Formulation of Date Palm Kernel on Facial Skin Wrinkles: Biophysical Measurements and Digital Profi lometry AZIZ ALSOHAIMI and ABDEL-MOTAAL FOUDA , Dermatology, Al Baha University Faculty of Medicine, Al Baha 65799, Saudi Arabia (A.A.), Clinical Pharmacology and Therapeutics, Al Baha University Faculty of Medicine, Al Baha 65799, Saudi Arabia and Faculty of Medicine, Mansoura University, Mansoura 35516, Egypt (A.-M.F.) Accepted for publication September 6, 2019 . Synopsis Previous studies have shown that the date palm kernel contains plenty of phytochemicals of potential rejuvenation benefi ts to skin. The aim of this study was to investigate a cream form containing date palm kernel extract (DPKE) on facial wrinkle reduction and objective skin parameters in healthy subjects. A cream form containing 5% DPKE was prepared and applied twice daily for 8 weeks on the facial skin of 43 volunteers. Biophysical measurements including skin hydration, elasticity, and pigmentation as well as optical scanning of skin surface were carried out after 4 and 8 weeks. Signifi cant improvement in facial skin hydration, elasticity, and melanin concentration together with reduction in the wrinkle size and depth were observed at the two time points of measurements. In addition, DPKE cream was extremely well tolerated by the facial skin of study participants. The work herein demonstrates and validates the use of cream form containing 5% DPKE over placebo against fi ne lines and wrinkles, skin pigmentations, skin hydration, and elasticity. This effect may be attributed to synergism of major phytochemicals and phytosterols present in DPKE. INTRODUCTION Skin aging involves several alterations of skin properties such as thinning, reduced elas- ticity, increased pigmentation, and appearance of wrinkles. These changes are the result of complex internal and external factors. Over the last decade, there has been an interest to use herbal extracts or phytochemicals in cosmetic products to fi ght the aging process. Phoenix dactylifera, commonly known as date palm, is widely cultivated across North Af- rica and the Middle East for its edible sweet fruit. The date kernel represents 10–15% of the total fruit weight, and studies have indicated that extracts of the date palm kernel contains plenty of biologically active phytochemicals such as carotenoids, polyphenols (e.g., phenolic acids, lignans, fl avonoids, and isofl avones), phytosterols, and tannins (1). Address all correspondence to Abdel-Motaal Fouda at foudaamm@mans.edu.eg.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 278 Many of these phytochemicals are considered potential contenders to revive tired aging skin and to have wrinkle-combating properties if used topically for suitable duration. However, a search in the scientifi c literature on the Internet yields scanty records on the anti–skin aging properties of date palm kernel extracts (DPKE) in human subjects (2,3). Accordingly, additional studies are necessary to boost the available reports and to estab- lish a considerable body of evidence of anti–skin aging function of DPKE. Assessment of the effi cacy of cosmetic preparations on biophysical characteristics of human skin such as texture, roughness, elasticity, thickness, and wrinkle depth can be achieved by variety of techniques the ideal method should be painless, noninvasive, and provide the specialist with a comprehensive view of skin topography and subsurface structure. Electronic probes with small electronic sensors are now common tools to objectively mea- sure biophysical parameters of skin such as elasticity, hydration, and pigmentation. They can provide clinicians with precise measurements of these parameters in a fast and eco- nomic way (4,5). The advancement in digital technology in recent years enabled noncon- tact measurements of skin relief via optical scanning and digital profi lometric analysis (6). The measuring principle uses scanning the surface with light of different wavelengths and at different angles to collect multispectral optical impressions of the skin surface and using these shape illumination 2D images to reconstruct a stereo 3D image of the skin that can be subjected to photometric stereo analysis by specialized software (7). In this study, we used the Antera 3D® camera (Miravex Limited, Dublin, Ireland) as a means for objective measurement of skin surface parameters (8). The purpose of this piece of re- search, however, was to investigate the antiaging properties of DPKE, formulated in cream form, on the facial skin of 43 healthy volunteers. Assessment of effi cacy was based on measurement of skin biophysical parameters and skin profi lometric analysis by an Antera 3D® multispectral analyzer. S UBJECTS AND METHODS S UBJECTS F orty-three healthy volunteers were enrolled in this study (11 male participants and 32 female participants, age range 39–67 years). Inclusion criteria included the absence of connective tissue or cardiovascular diseases, nonsmokers, and absence of active skin le- sions in the region of interest. Participants were instructed not to apply any cosmetic product or medicinal formulation on the skin area of investigation 1 week before and throughout the study. After fulfi lling the inclusion criteria, each participant was asked to give informed consent by a research coordinator. The study was conducted in accordance with Al Baha University Faculty of Medicine guidelines and the Declaration of Helsinki. P REPARATION OF DPKE CREAM F our hundred grams of date palm kernels (Sukkary variety) were defatted by n-hexane before being ground into a fi ne powder and extracted three times with 800 ml methanol at 4°C for 24 h. After fi ltration and centrifugation, the resultant supernatant was concen- trated under low pressure at 4°C for 3 h to yield the lyophilized material. A cream formula