26 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 4. Two methods of testing diffusion from various ointment bases have been compared and correlated. REFERENCES I Salisbury, R., Leuallen, E. E., and Chavkin, L. T., f. Am. Pharm. Assoc., Sci. Ed., 411, 117 (1954). I Lockie, L. D., and Sprowls, J. B., Ibid., 38, 222 _(1949•. * Huyck, C. L., Hirose, R. S., and Reyes, P. A., J•, •/d. 3õ, 129 (1946). l Waud R. A., and Ramsay, A. C., Can. Med. Assoc. J., 48,121 (1943). •3•n•d•iH• j•-, and Kemp, C. R¾,-J:•t4•-P•ar-m-•/ssoc. - Sci:--Ed :,-'I•'•'5 (1946). e Howard, R. W., New E•gl. J. •¾oeed., 14, 649 (1946). ? Izgu, E., and Lee, C. O., .[. •lm. Pharm. Assoc., Prac. Ed., 15,396 (1954). s Daniels, F., "Mathematical Preparation for Physical Chemistry," New York, McGraw-Hill Book Co., Inc. (1928), p. 227. s Scarborough, J. B., and Wagner. R. W., "Fundamentals of Statistics," Boston, Ginn and Co. (1948), p. 44. THE EMERGING COSMETIC INDUSTRY PAUL G. I. LAUFFER, Ph.D.* A lecture delivered at the 15th December, 1955, meeting of the Society in New York Dr. Lauffer surveys the subjects of the articles published in the "JournaP' showing the development of a "cosmetic chemistry." He welcomes the increasing interest in cosmetic science, surveys some branches of that science and suggests fields for useful future work where present knowledge is inadequate. THE TENTH anniversary of our Society seems a fitting occasion for a bird's-eye view ooe the Society's scientific and technological activities, and for an attempt to describe and delineate the body of cosmetic chemistry that is gradually taking form. A study of the papers presented at meetings of the Society will give an indication of our members' interests. The first five volumes of the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists include substantially all the papers presented at the meetings of the American Society, the British Society, and the Chicago Chapter, from 1945 to mid- 1954. These five volumes contain 170 papers, by 172 different individuals. One author's name appears on five papers, two on four, five on three, and eleven on two. * The George W. Luff Co., Inc., 34-12, 36th Avenue, Long Island City 6, N.Y.

THE EMERGING COSMETIC INDUSTRY 27 The sources of the 170 papers were: Cosmetics Industry Proper .. 47 Government ...... 5 Suppliers ...... 43 Publications and Advertising .. 3 Consultants ...... 32 Attorneys ...... 2 Universities ...... 26 Other Industries .... 22 Physicians ...... 10 The papers dealt with a wide variety of subjects, as follows: Ingredients (43) Surfactants ...... Chlorophyll ...... Bactericides ...... Product Testing (37) For Efficacy ...... 19 For Acceptability .... 7 For Stability ...... 6 For Safety ...... 5 Biochemistry of Skin and Hair 17 Product Analysis .... 9 Dentifrices and Caries .... 8 Perfumery ...... 8 Cosmetic Dermatitis .... 7 Formulation ...... 7 Cosmetic Research and Trends 6 Personal Interests ot Chemists 6 Physical Chemistry .... 5 Permanent Waving .... 5 Statistical Methods .... 3 14 Lanolin ........ 3 4 Others ........ 19 3 Odour Classification .... Monographs on Cosmetic Pre- parations .... History .... Packaging .. Patents .... Physiology of Skin Product Claims . Bacteriology Cosmetic Clinic Legislation Literature Odourimetry Toxicology This is a bewildering array of subjects, but all of them are of interest to the cosmetic chemist. Using a more generalised classification, the papers deal with the following phases of our activities: Commercial Phase .... 8 Technological Phase .... 130 Professional Phase .... 9 Scientific Phase .... 23 Differentiation between technological and scientific contributions calls for some definitions and brings us to the meat of our subject. The formula- tion, production, and to some extent the application of cosmetics constitute a technology, just as the practice of medicine and that of engineering are technologies. Over the centuries scientific principles have replaced rule of thumb in medical practice and in engineering, to an ever greate• extent, as the underlying sciences have developed. The sciences, or the phases of various sciences, useful or applicable in medical technology, have come to be called the "medical sciences." Similarly