106 JOUBNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Table VIII Staining Tests Cotton Cloth Original Initial 5 Hours Cloth Stain Exposure Mild Laundering 5 per cent Amerscreen P lotion 0 1 g 2.5 per cent Amerscreen P lotion 0 1 2 5 per cent PABA lotion 0 2 2 2.5 per cent PABA lotion 0 2 2 80 Cotton/20 Nylon Cloth 5 per cent Amerscreen P lotion 0 1 2 2.5 per cent Amerscreen P lotion 0 1 g 5 per cent PABA lotion 0 2 9. 2.5 per cent PABA lotion 0 2 g •Stain rating: (0) no stain, (1) clear oil stain, (2) light yellow oil stain, (3) amber oil stain. subjects reported that they developed a deep tan after 1 to 2 weeks use. No eases of sunburn were noted. The subjects were not able to distinguish be- tween the formulas with ! and 2 per cent propoxylated ethyl p-aminobenzo- ate. Both eoneentrat2ons were equally effective in preventing sunburn while suntan developed. In addition, informal field trials were conducted with lo- tions, ereams, and oils. All reports substantiate the laboratory and clinical find'ngs that 1 per cent propoxylated ethyl p-anfinobenzoate is effective in preventing burning while tanning develops. Summary Steps involved in the development of a new sunscreen, propoxylated ethyl p-aminobenzoate, were described. The various procedures required to sub- stantiate efficacy and prove safety were presented in detail. It is clear that the introduction into the market today of a new functional raw material is neither simple nor inexpensive. It should be obvious that the manufacturer of cos- metic raw materials must be just as involved as the cosmetic manufacturer in the current trend toward proving safety and efficacy before a consumer product is put on the market. ACKNOWLEDGMENT The author wishes to thank William Roy Kesting, Martin Smolin, Norman Milstein, Itenry F. Maso, and Shirley A. DeRagon for their excellent technical assistance and critical comments on the manuscript. REFERENCES (1) M. Luckiesh, Applications of Germicidal, Erythernal and Infrared Energy, Reinhold, New York, 1946. p. 50. (2) P. Bener, The diurnal and annual variations of the spectral intensity of ultraviolet sk!! and global radiation on cloudless days at Davos, 1590 rn.a.s.l., Contract AF
EVALUATION OF SUNSCREENING AGENT 107 (8) (9) (10) 61(052-618, Davos, January 1963, Technical Note No. 2. (3) S. I. Kreps, Sun burn protection and sun tan preparations, Amer. Perrum. Costa., 78, 73 (October 1963). (4) C. A. Groves, Factors influencing the formulation of sunscreens, Amer. Perrum. Cosmet., 87, 54-8 (July 1972). (5) B. M. Cumpelik, Analytical procedures and evaluation of sunscreens, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 333-345 (1972). (6) A. Shansky, The case for benzocaine, Amer. Perrum. Cosmet., 87, 29-32 (1972). (7) A.M. Kligman and W. M. Woocling, A method for measurement and evaluation of irritants on human skin, J. Invest. Dermatol., 49, 78-94 (1967). A.M. Kligman, The identification of contact allergens by human assay, J. Invest. Dermatol., 47, 393-409 (19,66). S. Riegelman and R. P. Penna, Effect of vehicle components on the absorption char- acteristics of sunscreen compounds, J. Soc. Costa. Chem., 11, 280-291 (1960). I. Willis and A.M. Kligman, Evaluation of sunscreens by human assay, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 20, 639-51 (1969).
Previous Page Next Page