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j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 35, 147-156 (May/June 1984) The induction of skin tightness by surfactants MICHIO KAWAI and GENJI IMOKAWA, Kao Tochigi Research Laboratories, 2606 Akabane, Ichikaimachi Hagagun Tochigi 321-34, Japan. Received September 8, 1983. Synopsis We have examined the relationship between surfactant structure and the sensation of tightness which ordinarily occurs on facial skin a few minutes after face washing. Most anionic surfactants cause various degrees of skin tightness, the order being, TEA-lauryl phosphate potassium myristate = TEA-cocoyl glutamate sodium laureth-2 sulfate sodium lauryl sulfate. The physicochemical characteristics of these surfactants, e.g., the ability to remove skin surface lipids, the ability to release amino acids and urocanic acid from the horny layers, and adsorption onto the skin were examined to learn about the causative factors responsible for the induction of skin tightness. Among these factors, the degree of tightness was shown to be related to both the lipid removal and the adsorption abilities of the surfactant. However, we conclude that residual surfactant present after removal of skin surface lipid is primarily responsible for inducing the tightness sensation. INTRODUCTION There have been a number of reports describing the cutaneous effects, including skin irritation (1,2,3) and skin roughness (4,5,6,7), of surfactants. However, little is known about other skin effects, e.g., those associated with the sensation of tightness. It is well known that facial skin is more susceptible to tightness than are other skin areas. Among various skin sensations, tightness frequently arises from washing with a surfactant. There is no available data on the cause of surfactant-induced skin tightness. The ob- jective of this paper is to describe the relationship between surfactant structure and the degree of tightness occuring on facial skin and to further analyze physicochemical factors associated with this action. MATERIALS AND METHODS SURFACTANTS Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth-2 sulfate (ES), potassium myristate (SOAP), TEA-cocoyl glutamate (AGS) and TEA-lauryl phosphate (MAP) are identical with those reported previously except for their salt type (8,9,10). Table I summarizes the analytical data on the surfactants employed in this study. 147