IN VITRO SPF MEASUREMENTS 315 (2) R. M. Sayre, P. P. Agin, G. J. LeVee, and E. Marlowe, A comparison of in vivo and in vitro testing of sunscreening formulations, Photochem. Photobid., 29, 559-566 (1979). (3) B. L. Diffey and J. Robson, A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127 (1989). (4) J.J. O'Neill, Effect of skin irregularities on sunscreen efficiency, J. Pharm. Sci., 73, 888-891 (1984). (5) S. Brown and B. L. Diffey, The effect of applied thickness on sunscreen protection: In vivo and in vitro studies, Photochem. Photobiol., 44, 509-513 (1986). (6) S.R. Spruce and J.P. Hewitt, In vitro SPF: Methodology and correlation with in vivo data, Euro Cosmetics, 14-20 (June 1995). (7) A. Beer, Ann. Physik Chem. (J. C. Poggendorff), 86, 78 (1852). (8) L. E. Rhodes and B. L. Diffey, Quantitative assessment of sunscreen application technique using in vivo fluorescence spectroscopy, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 47, 109-115 (1996). (9) N.J. Turro, Molecular Photochemistry (W. A. Benjamin Inc., New York, 1967), p. 45.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 51,317-322 (September/October 2000) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 33, No. 3, 1999 Study on the Evaluation Method for the Combing Force of Human Hair* Ruka Suzuki, Ichiro Iida, Takao Someya Product Research Laboratory, KOSE Corporation** [3The combing response is one of the important quality factors of hair care products. In this report, an objective evaluation method for combing response was discussed, and a new type of evaluation device that is equipped with a vertical articulated type robot and a comb type probe mounted to a strain gauge was developed. It is applied to a hair tress with the view to substitute combing action of a human hand. The objects of the study are the factor analyses of the conditioner components for the combing response and application to the development of hair care products such as hair conditioners, the effects of cationic surface-active agents, 'the constituent hair conditioner were discussed and the evaluation results were compared with a sensory evaluation. The experimental results are summarized as follows: the effects of the combing response to the hair conditioners, based on several levels of concentration and varieties of cationic surface-active agents, were accurately detected, and a correlation to the sensory evaluated values was observed. From these data, this evaluation method was estimated to provide a rapid and objective detection of the combing response and is applicable for the development of hair care products. From the measurement of normal and damaged hair, a precise, difference was detected and the method was found to be effective for the estimation of hair conditions. New Anti-Aging Cosmetic Ingredients - Lignan Glycosides in Germinated Sesame Seeds - , Noriyasu Kuno, Kin-ya Tsuchiya, Shigeo Nakajima Research Laboratory, The Nisshin Oil Mills, Ltd. ** []Demand for anti-aging cosmetics is increasing considerably. Until now, a great number of materials that are able to prevent human skin from aging (the anti-aging ingredients) have been sought by many researchers, however, few components were found to be useful in anti-aging cosmetics. Nowadays, the defensive functions in plants against oxidative stress t¾om the outside have attracted considerable attention, therefore, we have aimed at applying new antioxidants in plants to the anti-aging cosmetic ingredients. Germinated sesame seeds were found to contain a strong natural antioxidant. As a result of purification and identification, it appeared that lignan glycosides were the main antioxidants in germinated sesame seeds, and we could succeed in discovering three new kinds oflignan glycosides. By evaluating the effectiveness of these compounds for anti-aging cosmetics, it was found that lignan glycosides showed scavenging activity on organic radicals, hydroxyl radical (ESR analysis), singlet oxygen, superoxide anion, and antioxidant activity against oxidation of squalene generated by UV irradiation and oxidation ofhinoleic acid induced by Fenton reaction. These results suggested that lignan glycosides in germinated sesame seeds were very useful as anti-aging cosmetic ingredients. I.JKey words: evaluation, combing force, hair, combing response, robot, strain gauge, hair tress, hair conditioner, cationic surface-active agents, sensory evaluation, damaged hair, stick-slip, friction [3Key words : anti-aging, natural antioxidant, antioxidant activity, germinated sesame seeds, hignan glycosides, squalene, hinoleic acid, hydroxyl radical, singlet oxygen, SOD-like activity * These abstracts appear exactly as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 317