320 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE release various fragrance materials. Further, in situ examinations were carried out. After applying the solution of each GBV on various regions of the body, such as scalp, foot and forearm, the generated fragrance materials were analyzed by using headspace technology. And we confirmed thatGBVs, particularly 13-D-glucoside derivatives, also gradually changed to fragrance materials on the skin. In conclusion, odorless GBVs possess an alternative effect of its unusal sustained-release deodorancy as deodorant ingredient on the skin. This approach, specifically studied for the deodorant ingredients, could be applied to improve the durability of the active ingredient for cosmetics. []Key words : glycosidically bound volatiles, fragrant precursor, deodorizing method, skin microflora, headspace analysis, eugenyl [3-D- glucoside, raspberry ketone[3-D-glucoside, phenylethyll•-D-glucoside, olfactory evaluation, deodorant efficacy The Relationship between Sensitive Skin and Stratum Corneum Morphology* Nobuo Kashibuchi**, Naoko Ota***, Masakazu ß ** . .. ** M•yazawa , Norlo Fuj•wara , Atsushi Kishita**,•Yoshikazu Hirai** Products R&D Laboratories**,•Safety & Analytical Research Center***, POLA Chemical Industries Inc. []"Sensitive skin" is an important problem in cosmetics research. Nowaday, there are still a few research studied in this field. To evaluate the sensitive skin, in self consciousness, we studied are as follows: 1) factors affecting on the conscious sensitive skin, 2) seasonal variation affecting on the skin sensitivity, 3) relationship between sensitivity of the skin and morphology of the stratum corneum obtained by tape-stripping method. As theEresults, it was suggested that 1) there are similar experience in the forming of the skin consciousness, 2) proportion of the conscious skin sensitivity is not changed within a year, but individuals are changed, 3) some orE the stratum corneum parameters correlated to the skin consciousness, projected surface area of the corneocyte[available for substantiate the skin sensitivity. Especially, the separation value of surface area which calculated[]from theoretical value is most useful in the parameters. Questionnaire and separation value of corneocyte's surface area are useful tools to evaluate the skin sensitivity. •]Key words: skin sensitivity, stratum corneum, corneocyte surface area, nucleated cell, tape- stripping, gentian[violet, brilliant green, thick abrasion, cellular arrangement, seasonal variation[] Vol. 33, No. 4, 1999 Development of Titanium Dioxide-Containing Silicone Polymer and Applications in Cosmetics* Ryuichi Inaba, Eiichi Saito, Toshiaki Kobayashi, Yoshio Fujiyama Nippon Shikizai, Inc.** •3Trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) is used in various types of cosmetics because it forms a protective film that is[highly water repellent, lubricating, and lasting. The authors tried to develop silicone polymers that contain titanium dioxide : (trimethylsiloxysilicate containing titanium dioxide TMST) to improve the optical properties of TMS. We prepared TMST by exploiting the sol-gel reaction to co-hydrolyze and polymerize silicone alkoxide Dand titanium (IV) alkoxide, while trimethylsilylating the intermediates. The TiO2 units in TMST were strongly bound to and homogeneously incorporated in the-=Si-O-Si- = network structure, rather than the simple[dispersion of particles of a fine titanium dioxide in TMS. The component units of TMST are [(CH•)DSiO•n]: [SiO2]:[TiO2](mol ratio 1.4: 1.2: 0.4). TMST is capable of forming film, which, although containing 9.0% titanium dioxide by weight, has good transparency because the titanium dioxide is highly dispersed and anchored. TMST retains the solubility of TMS, which has been a popular material for cosmetics, as well as the functional (transfer resistant and water repellent) film forming capabilities of TMS. In addition, TMST has the unique optical characteristics (higher refractive index and ultraviolet screening function) attributable to the titanium dioxide contained. These results demonstrated that TMST is very useful as a new functional film forming agent in cosmetics. •3Key words : silicone, silicone oils, silicones, silicone derivatives, titanium dioxide, polymers, metal alkoxides, hydrolysis, polymerization, soles, gels, film forming agents, solubility, transparency, adhesives, water resistance, sunscreens, lipsticks

ABSTRACTS 3 21 The Relationship between Moisture Content of Human Fingernails and the Mechanical Properties of the Fingernail(Part2)* Tooru Sugawara, Mizue Kawai, Toshiyuki .Suzuki., Cosmetic Research Laboratories, Kao Corporation []It is well known that nail damages such as yellowing, split nails and peeled nails (onychoschisis) are caused by continuous use of nail enamel for a long period. Within serious nail damages, we aimed at split nails and peeled nails and basically investigated the relationship between fingernail moisture content and the mechanical properties and the structure of tingemails to make clear the factors affecting those nail damages. As a result, fingernail moisture content was lower than plantar horny layer one. The change in tingemail volume due to moisture absorption was much more considerable in thickness than in length and width. It is suggested that the state of tingemail is changed by moisture absorption from the result of E'and tan 8 of the tingemail dipped in[]water. Moreover we propose the mechanism that cause split nails and peeled nails. []Key words : moisture content, tingemail, mechanical property, nail enamel, trouble, split nail, peeled nail, þstructure, bending test, SEM image Time Frequency Analysis of the Brain Waves Variation by Cyclic Odor Stimulus* Makoto Fujii, Koichi Shimmoto Fundamental Research Laboratory, KOSE Corporation ** []Objective evaluation of psychophysiological effects is needed to develop the cosmetics with relaxation effectiveness. Recently, analyzing brain waves is used for evaluating these effects. For example, these effects are evaluated qualitatively by comparing power spectra of brain waves with and without stimulus. However quantifying variation in power spectra by stimulus is not easy, because the variation is affected by environment such as emotion, situation, etc. This paper proposed the new method for extracting the variation quantitatively. In this method, giving cyclic stimulus to human, the variation, which arises along the cycle, can be extracted by STFT (Short Time Fourier Transform) and FFT Moreover, experimental system was constructed based on our theories. Odor stimulus as peppermint and spearmint were tested, and the variations being able to extract quantitatively was shown. In case of peppermint, components of power spectra were increased in area of 4-6 Hz, and in spearmint, the components were also increased in 9-11 Hz. From these results, it was suggested that the proposed method was useful for objective evaluation of psychophysiological effects. •3Key words: STFT, time frequency analysis, FFT, power spectra, frequency analysis, cyclic stimulus, brain wave, odor, peppermint, speannint Properties of the Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate (FA) Copolymers and Their Applications for Cosmetics* Masamichi Morita" ,Tatsuhiko Watanabe", Motonobu Kubo**, Kazuo Shimamoto***, Yasuo Sugawara*** R&D Department No.2, Chemical Division, Daikin Industries, Ltd. **, Yao R&D Laboratories, Nihon Kolmar Co. Ltd. *** Properties of the perfluoroalkylethyl acrylate (FA) copolymers and their applications for cosmetics were studied. The main conclusions from this study were summarized as follows : firstly, the FA copolymers which include hydrophobic comonomers made it possible to mix fluorinated compounds with non-fluorinated materials easily. This comes from the ability of FA copolymer to decrease the interfacial tension at fluorinated compound / non-fluorinated solvent. This technique can be applied to prepare the non-aqueous emulsion (perfluoropoly ether/non-fluorinated solvent type) and the foundations which contain a large quantity of fluorinated powders. Secondly, the FA copolymers which include hydrophiliccomonomers made it possible to repel oil both in air and in water. Its behavior was demonstrated by the surface chemistry-based measurement used with flat substrate (PET film) and with powder substrate (talc). This technique may be applied to prepare the cosmetics which are durable against sebum in all environments. þKey words : perfluoroalkylethyl acrylate copolymers, butylacrylate, silicone methacrylate, silicone mercaptane, polyethyleneglycol methacrylate, water and oil repellency, hybrid polymer, non-aqueous emulsion, sebum release polymer, contact angle, interfacial tension