326 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE OBJECTIVE METHODS FOR MEASURING TRANSFER RESISTANCE OF VARIOUS COLOR COSMETICS Melissa Hundey, Jesse Leverett, Bob Alexander, Terri Peterson and Ron Sharpe Amway Corporation, 7575 E. Fulton Street, Ada, M149355) INTRODUCTION: Transfer resistance has become an important consumer-perceived characteristic in color cosmetics. However few, if any, objective methods for measuring the amount transferred have been published. Various techniques were evaluated to assess and provide an objective determination of transfer resistance. Foundations and lip- colors were screened using these techniques under different experimental conditions. Both in vitro and in vivo tests were assessed for acceptability as screening and measurement tools. BACKGROUND: Seventy-five percent of consumers in a recent panel felt transfer resistance to be an important characteristic in cosmetics. However, far less felt they had experienced a product that met their expectations. Most panelists felt transfer resistant cosmetics should not come off with casual contact and should last throughout the day•. In other words, consumers expect a product that stays where they put it. The product should not come off on their collar in the morning (when the product is freshly applied), or come off throughout the day with casual contact (after the product has been in place some time). Such expectations do not seem unreasonable. Yet, in order to meet and exceed these consumer desires, a simple screening method would be extremely useful to the cosmetic formulator. METHODS/h VARIABLES: In vitro and in vivo methods were examined to evaluate transfer resistance. An Ink Rub Tester (Testing Machines, Inc., Model #10-18-01-0001) was modified to assess the transfer resistance of foundations in vitro. Cosmetics sponges covered with Transpore Tape have similar absorption to skin. Thus product would behave similarly on this substate as it does on skin. A weighed amount of product was applied and allowed to set for five to ten minutes. The mechanical arm of the instrument was equipped with a pre-weighed sponge with a texture that simulated cotton. The arm was then allowed to rub the covered surface twelve times with constant pressure. The amount of product transferred was calculated based on the increased weight of the sponge. Visual assessments and Image Analysis were used to aid in the evaluation. In vivo testing of foundation was preformed by applying a weighed amount of product over a pre-marked area on the cheek. The test product was allowed to set a predetermined amount of time. The area was then swiped by hand five times with a pre-weighed white tissue. The amount transferred was calculated through the weight gain of the tissue. This information was then correlated to both visual assessments and Image Analysis data. Variables were reviewed.

2000 ANNUAL SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR 327 In vivo testing of lip-color was preformed in a similar manner to the foundation testing. Pre-weighed lip-color was applied to the lips and allowed to set a predetermined amount of time. The amount of color applied was determined through the weight difference of the stick after application. Participants were then asked to "kiss" a pre-weighed tissue for five seconds. Amount transferred was again calculated through weight gain of the tissue. Visual assessments and Image Analysis were used in correlating the data. Variables were reviewed. Variables such as color of product, pressure of removal and time product was allowed to be worn were examined. RI•SULTS: The first variable to be examined was product color. Color of some formulation types (i.e. most lip-colors} demonstrated a large impact on the visual amount transferred. The darker the shade the easier transferred pigment was to observe. However, it is important to note that actual weight transferred did not change due to color variations and that certain formulation types did not demonstrate this phenomena. Pressure of rubbing was the next variable to be evaluated in vivo. Only light pressure was important, since simulating casual contact was the intent. A Wagner Force 5 Capacity Gauge (Model FDV-30} was used to determine pressure for the in vivo testing. Minor pressure variations (500+/-200g} did not effect percent transferred. Visual assessments and Image Analysis also correlated with these results. Initial transfer resistance testing, which was preformed five minutes after application, was the most straightforward testing to preform on cosmetics. However this manner of testing provides limited information to the cosmetic formulator. Since long wear is also of importance to the consumer, this aspect too must be evaluated. Long-term transfer resistance has proven to be a challenge to objectively measure since the skin is not static. It is known that sebum, which develops throughout the day, can have negative consequences on makeup 2. Currently surveys are underway to determine if short-term transfer resistance results correlate to consumers' perceptions and expectations for all day wear. (•ONCLUSIONS: Certain variables were examined in the testing. Color of product was determined to be of little importance to the amount transferred via weight. However darker shades of some formulation types had a direct influence on the visual perception of the transfer resistance while other did not demonstrate this phenomena. Light pressure variations during removal were also evaluated as a variable for accurate transfer measurements. This variable, surprisingly, allowed for slight changes without affecting the amount transferred immediately after application. Time was also varied in assessing the transferability throughout the day. 1. Kintish, Lisa. Soap Cosmetics Chemical Specialties. 1998. Vol. 74, Issue. $, pp. 32. 2. Aust, et al., Cosmetic Claims Substantiation. Vol. 18.