J. Cosmet. Sci., 51,317-322 (September/October 2000) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan Vol. 33, No. 3, 1999 Study on the Evaluation Method for the Combing Force of Human Hair* Ruka Suzuki, Ichiro Iida, Takao Someya Product Research Laboratory, KOSE Corporation** [3The combing response is one of the important quality factors of hair care products. In this report, an objective evaluation method for combing response was discussed, and a new type of evaluation device that is equipped with a vertical articulated type robot and a comb type probe mounted to a strain gauge was developed. It is applied to a hair tress with the view to substitute combing action of a human hand. The objects of the study are the factor analyses of the conditioner components for the combing response and application to the development of hair care products such as hair conditioners, the effects of cationic surface-active agents, 'the constituent hair conditioner were discussed and the evaluation results were compared with a sensory evaluation. The experimental results are summarized as follows: the effects of the combing response to the hair conditioners, based on several levels of concentration and varieties of cationic surface-active agents, were accurately detected, and a correlation to the sensory evaluated values was observed. From these data, this evaluation method was estimated to provide a rapid and objective detection of the combing response and is applicable for the development of hair care products. From the measurement of normal and damaged hair, a precise, difference was detected and the method was found to be effective for the estimation of hair conditions. New Anti-Aging Cosmetic Ingredients - Lignan Glycosides in Germinated Sesame Seeds - , Noriyasu Kuno, Kin-ya Tsuchiya, Shigeo Nakajima Research Laboratory, The Nisshin Oil Mills, Ltd. ** []Demand for anti-aging cosmetics is increasing considerably. Until now, a great number of materials that are able to prevent human skin from aging (the anti-aging ingredients) have been sought by many researchers, however, few components were found to be useful in anti-aging cosmetics. Nowadays, the defensive functions in plants against oxidative stress t¾om the outside have attracted considerable attention, therefore, we have aimed at applying new antioxidants in plants to the anti-aging cosmetic ingredients. Germinated sesame seeds were found to contain a strong natural antioxidant. As a result of purification and identification, it appeared that lignan glycosides were the main antioxidants in germinated sesame seeds, and we could succeed in discovering three new kinds oflignan glycosides. By evaluating the effectiveness of these compounds for anti-aging cosmetics, it was found that lignan glycosides showed scavenging activity on organic radicals, hydroxyl radical (ESR analysis), singlet oxygen, superoxide anion, and antioxidant activity against oxidation of squalene generated by UV irradiation and oxidation ofhinoleic acid induced by Fenton reaction. These results suggested that lignan glycosides in germinated sesame seeds were very useful as anti-aging cosmetic ingredients. I.JKey words: evaluation, combing force, hair, combing response, robot, strain gauge, hair tress, hair conditioner, cationic surface-active agents, sensory evaluation, damaged hair, stick-slip, friction [3Key words : anti-aging, natural antioxidant, antioxidant activity, germinated sesame seeds, hignan glycosides, squalene, hinoleic acid, hydroxyl radical, singlet oxygen, SOD-like activity * These abstracts appear exactly as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. 317

318 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Selective Adsorption of Fatty Acids for the Prevention of Foundation Makeup Deterioration* Koichi Nomura** ,Yutaka Takasuka'• Hirochika Nishimura", Katsuhiro Motoyoshi**,nShoji Yamanaka*** Products R&D Laboratories, POLA Chemical Industries, Inc.**, Faculty of Engineering, Hiroshima University*** L•Deterioration of applied makeup remains a serious concern for the busy modern woman, but little research has been published on this topic. Currently available "long-lasting" makeups do not perform satisfactorily, and a different approach is needed. Many forms of makeup film deterioration exist our international survey of makeup users identified shiny spot formation following foundation application to be the problem most frequently complained of. Our goal was to identify those factors responsible for optical degradation and develop an effective means of countering this phenomenon. Our research confirmed that the secretion of sebum plays a key role in shiny spot tbrmation. We studied the components of sebum causing optical degradation, and identified particular unsaturated free fatty acid (FA) as the main culprits. By lowering the melting point of sebum, unsaturated tYee FA caused wetting of the makeup substrate, altering its optical properties, leading to the formation of shiny spots. Understanding of the basic cause of optical degradation of the makeup film enabled us to design a new compound which can selectively adsorb specific FA. By chemically modifying the structure of certain clay minerals, we developed unique interlayered compounds having precisely controlled spacing of the silicate layers of the clay and selective adsorption properties. One compound we developed consists of zinc oxide precursor loaded in alumina pillar interlayered clay (ZA-pilc). In vitro and in vivo testing on powder foundations incorporating ZA-pilc proved that the compound was remarkably effective in suppressing optical degradation, prolonging the life time of makeup in actual usage conditions. Besides preventing optical degradation of makeup film, incorporation of ZA-pilc in cosmetic formulations may offer an additional benefit of reducing acne formation through selective adsorption of FA. Our experimental results indicate that ZA-pilc suppresses comedo formation in the ear of rabbits, suggesting the possibility of application in anti-acne preparations. LJKey words: questionnaire, deterioration, sebum, shininess, gloss meter, foundation, composition, fatty acid, makeup, montmorillonite, clay[] Effects of Long-Term UVA Exposure of Human Skin Fibroblasts on Cell Growth and Extracellular Matrix Formation* Munehiro Iketani, Yukiko Matsunaga, Toshio Nishiyama, Minorn Fukuda, Tasuku Takamatsu Skin Biology Research Laboratories, Life Science Research Center, Shiseido Co., Ltd. ** []Repeated exposures to sunlight cause sagging skin or deep wrinkles. These morphological changes, called photoaging, depend on the characteristics of dermal extracellular matrices (ECM), of which type I collagen is a major component. We studied cell growth and ECM tbrmation of human skin fibroblasts under long-term UVA exposure. Secretion of type I procollagen was almost the same as that of the control, while cell growth and ECM formation were greatly inhibited. Reactive oxygen scavengers did not affect this inhibition. The effect of UVA was reproduced when the cells were cultured in UVA-irradiated medium, even though they were not exposed directly to UVA. The growth arrest was not seen when fresh fetal bovine serum was added to the UVA-irradiated medium. These results suggest that the inhibition of cell growth and ECM formation induced by long-term UVA exposure is due to denaturation of growth factors and/or chemokinetic factors rather than to direct cytotoxicity of reactive oxygen. NKey words : photoaging, UVA, fibroblast, extracellular matrix (ECM), cell growth, collagen, C-terminal peptide, reactive oxigen scavenger, FBS, growth factor, chemokinetic factor Liposomal Linoleic Acid Is Useful as a Skin Lightening Agent* Hiromichi Imanaka, Hideya Ando, Atsuko Ryu, Yasutami Shigeta, Satomi Kishida, Ayako Mori, Taketoshi Makino Central Research Institute, SUNSTAR Inc. ** LJLinoleic acid, one of the essential fatty acids, has a remarkable inhibitory efibct on melanin synthesis by cultured melanoma cells. The activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme critical to melanin synthesis, was inhibited by linoleic acid but the level of tyrosinase mRNA was not affected, indicating that linoleic acid regulation ofmelanogenesis was due to post-transcriptional events. The inhibitory mechanism of linoleic acid was that it enhanced the proteolytic degradation of tyrosinase and led to a decrease in melanin production. In order to improve