AVAILABILITY AND COMPOSITION OF "KOHLS" 125 (10) A. Al-Khayat, N. S. Menon, and M. R. Alidina, Acute lead encephalopathy in early infancy-Clinical presentation and outcome, Ann. Trap. Paediatr., 17, 39--44 (1997). (11) H. Narchi, Radiological case of the month, Arch. Pediatr. Ado!. Med., 154, 83-84 (2000). (12) M.A. Healy, P. G. Harrison, M. Aslam, S.S. Davis, and C. G. Wilson, Lead sulphide and traditional preparations: Routes for ingestion, and solubility and reactions in gastric fluid,]. Clin. Hosp. Phann., 7, 169-173 (1982). (13) C. Gardella, Lead exposure in pregnancy: A review of the literature and argument for routine prenatal screening, Obstet. Gynaec. Survey, 56, 231-238 (2001). (14) R. M. Al-Ashban, M. Aslam, and A.H. Shah, Kohl (surma): A toxic traditional eye cosmetic study in Saudi Arabia, Public Health, 118, 292-298 (2004). (15) S. A. F. Al-Hazzaa, and P. M. Krahn, Kohl: A hazardous eyeliner, Int. Ophthalrnol., 19, 83-88 (1995). (16) A. Al-Kaff, A. Al-Rajhi, K. Tabbora, and A. El-Yazigi, Kohl-The traditional eyeliner: Use and analysis, Ann. Saudi Med., 13, 26-30 (1993). (17) I. A. Al-Saleh and L. Coate, Lead exposure in Saudi Arabia from the use of traditional cosmetics and medical remedies, Environ. Geochem. Health, 17, 29-31 (1995). (18) M. Aslam, S.S.Davis, and M.A.Healy, Heavy metals in some Asian medicines and cosmetics, Public Health, 93, 274-284 (1979). (19) N. P. Fernando, M.A. Healy, M. Aslam, S.S.Davis, and A. Hussein, Lead poisoning and traditional practices: The consequences for world health. A study in Kuwait, Public Health, 95, 250-260 (1981). (20) M.A. Healy, M. Aslam, and 0. A. Bamgboye, Traditional medicine and lead-containing preparations in Nigeria, Public Health, 98, 26-32 (1984). (21) C. Parry and J. Eaton, Kohl: A lead-hazardous eye makeup from the third world to the first world, Environ. Health Perspect., 94, 121-123 (1991). (22) I. M. Madany and M. S. Akhter, Lead levels in some eye cosmetics used in Bahrain, J. Environ. Sci. Health [A}, 27, 1541-1547 (1992). (23) A. M. Syed, M. Qadiruddin, K. Shirin, and Z. B. Hashmi, Determination of inorganic components including minor and trace elements in surma (kohl) formulations, Pak. J. Sci. Ind. Res., 37, 411--413 (1994). (24) R. Chappell, P. Billig, E. Brantly, S. Ault, and H. S. Ezzeldin, Lead Exposure Abatement Plan for Egypt: Results of Environmental Sampling for Lead, Environmental Health Project, Activity Report No. 32 (prepared for the USAID Mission to Egypt under EHP Activity No. 256-CC) (1997). (25) N. Lekouch, A. Sedki, N. Nejmeddine, and S. Gamon, Lead and traditional Moroccan pharmacopoeia, Sci. Total Environ., 280, 39-43 (2001).
J. Cosmet. Sci., 57, 127-137 (March/April 2006) Analysis of consumer cosmetic products for phthalate esters JEAN C. HUBIN GER and DONALD C. HA VERY, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 5100 Pa int Branch Parkway, C allege Park, MD 20740. Accepted for publication November 17, 2005. Synopsis A rapid and sensitive reverse-phase HPLC method with UV detection was developed for the quantitation of dimethyl phthalate (DMP), diethyl phthalate (DEP), butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP), dibutyl phthalate (DBP), and di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) in cosmetic preparations. Average recoveries of the phthalate esters were better than 90%. In a survey of 48 consumer cosmetic products, including hair care products, deodorants, lotions and creams, nail products, fragrances, and body washes, most products were found to contain at least one phthalate ester. DEP was detected most frequently at concentrations up to 38,663 ppm. DBP was found in fewer products, but at levels up to 59,815 ppm. Based on the available exposure and toxicity data, the FDA has concluded that there is insufficient data to conclude that a human health hazard exists from exposure to phthalate esters from cosmetic products. INTRODUCTION Phthalate esters are present in many consumer products, primarily to impart flexibility to rigid polymers such as polyvinyl chloride. They are used in the production of products such as food wrappings, medical devices (e.g., blood bags), children's toys, wood finishes, paints, upholstery, and plastic products, and are subject to a variety of regulatory requirements. As a result of their extensive use, phthalate esters have been found in the environment (1-6), foods (7-9), food supplements (10), medical products (11,12), medical devices (13), plastic materials (14), and cosmetics (15). In cosmetic products, phthalate esters are used as solvents for fragrances, as suspension agents for solids in aerosols, as lubricants for aerosol valves, and as antifoaming agents, skin emollients, and plasticizers in nail polishes and fingernail elongators. Investigations into the levels of phthalate ester metabolites in human urine have shown that exposure to DEP, BBP, DBP, and DEHP from all sources is highly variable from person to person and between different demographic groups (16-19). In one study, women of child-bearing age (20-40 years) were found to have significantly higher levels of monobutyl phthalate, the metabolite of DBP, in their urine than other age/gender groups (16). Several phthalate metabolites have also been found in human breast milk 127
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124 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE samples having it present as a minor phase). Therefore, almost half (43%) of these 53 available samples contain a lead compound. Sixteen more were based on amorphous carbon, seven on zincite, five on sassolite, two on the iron compounds hematite and goethite, two on calcium carbonate, and one on talc. This study shows that traditional eye cosmetics, "kohls," are still readily available in the souks of Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al-Quwain, Ras Al-Khaimah, and Fujairah and that, unfortunately, many do still contain the toxic element lead (as PbS). The largest three emirates (Dubai, Sharjah, and RAK) have, as expected, the largest souks and thus the largest number of available kohl samples for purchase. If three kohl samples were bought in any one of these three emirates' souks, then there would be a high probability that one would contain lead, and in all likelihood there would be no clear indication of this on its container or enclosed leaflet. Moreover, some of the most available kohls not only contain lead, but contain it in a form (i.e., small particle size) that makes it more easily absorbed into the human gut. Finally, we can only reiterate that this element has no known biological value and is an insidious cumulative poison having potentially devastating cognitive effects if applied regularly to young children. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS We thank the following people for their help in the course of this study: Mr. P. Auchterlonie (Librarian for Middle East Studies, Exeter University, UK) for his help in translating phrases found, in various languages, on leaflets/containers of some of the samples mentioned in this article, and Dr. E. Berner (American University of Dubai, Dubai, UAE) for her local knowledge and help in arranging "field trips" to some of the more distant souks of the UAE. Also, we thank the staff of the Chemical and Materials Analysis Unit (University of Newcastle, UK) for the experimental SEM work mentioned in this article. REFERENCES (l) A. D. Hardy, H. H. Sutherland, and R. Vaishnav, A study of the composition of some eye cosmetics (kohls) used in the United Arab Emirates,]. Ethnopharrnacol., 80, 137-145 (2002). (2) A. D. Hardy, R. Vaishnav, S.S. Z. Al-Kharusi, H. H. Sutherland, and M.A. Worthing, Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Oman, J. Ethnopharmacol., 60, 223-234 (1998). (3) A. D. Hardy, R. I. Walton, and R. Vaishnav, Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Cairo, Int. J. Environ. Health Res., 14, 83-91 (2004). (4) (Marcus) Vitruvius (Pollio), De Architectura, Book 8, Chapter 6, Passages 10 and 11 (http://www.ukans . edu!history!index/ettropelancient_rome/EIRornan!Texts!Vitruvim/8. html). (5) R. L. Canfield, C.R. Henderson, D. A. Cory-Slechta, C. Cox, T. A. Jusko, and B. P. Lanphear, Intel- lectual impairment in children with blood lead concentrations below 10 µg per deciliter, New Engl.]. Med., 348, 1517-1526 (2003). (6) R. A. Goyer, Lead toxicity: From overt to subclinical to subtle health effects, Environ. Health Perspect., 86, 177-181 (1990). (7) H. L. Needleman, A. Schell, D. Bellinger, and E. N. Alfred, The long term effects of exposure to low doses of lead in childhood: An eleven year follow-up report, N. Engl. J. Med., 332, 83-88 (1990). (8) J. Schwartz and D. Otto, Lead and minor hearing impairment, Arch. Environ. Health, 46, 300-306 (1991). (9) C. D. Klaasen, Casarett and Dou/l's Toxicology, the Basic Science of Poisons, 5th ed. (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1996).
AVAILABILITY AND COMPOSITION OF "KOHLS" 125 (10) A. Al-Khayat, N. S. Menon, and M. R. Alidina, Acute lead encephalopathy in early infancy-Clinical presentation and outcome, Ann. Trap. Paediatr., 17, 39--44 (1997). (11) H. Narchi, Radiological case of the month, Arch. Pediatr. Ado!. Med., 154, 83-84 (2000). (12) M.A. Healy, P. G. Harrison, M. Aslam, S.S. Davis, and C. G. Wilson, Lead sulphide and traditional preparations: Routes for ingestion, and solubility and reactions in gastric fluid,]. Clin. Hosp. Phann., 7, 169-173 (1982). (13) C. Gardella, Lead exposure in pregnancy: A review of the literature and argument for routine prenatal screening, Obstet. Gynaec. Survey, 56, 231-238 (2001). (14) R. M. Al-Ashban, M. Aslam, and A.H. Shah, Kohl (surma): A toxic traditional eye cosmetic study in Saudi Arabia, Public Health, 118, 292-298 (2004). (15) S. A. F. Al-Hazzaa, and P. M. Krahn, Kohl: A hazardous eyeliner, Int. Ophthalrnol., 19, 83-88 (1995). (16) A. Al-Kaff, A. Al-Rajhi, K. Tabbora, and A. El-Yazigi, Kohl-The traditional eyeliner: Use and analysis, Ann. Saudi Med., 13, 26-30 (1993). (17) I. A. Al-Saleh and L. Coate, Lead exposure in Saudi Arabia from the use of traditional cosmetics and medical remedies, Environ. Geochem. Health, 17, 29-31 (1995). (18) M. Aslam, S.S.Davis, and M.A.Healy, Heavy metals in some Asian medicines and cosmetics, Public Health, 93, 274-284 (1979). (19) N. P. Fernando, M.A. Healy, M. Aslam, S.S.Davis, and A. Hussein, Lead poisoning and traditional practices: The consequences for world health. A study in Kuwait, Public Health, 95, 250-260 (1981). (20) M.A. Healy, M. Aslam, and 0. A. Bamgboye, Traditional medicine and lead-containing preparations in Nigeria, Public Health, 98, 26-32 (1984). (21) C. Parry and J. Eaton, Kohl: A lead-hazardous eye makeup from the third world to the first world, Environ. Health Perspect., 94, 121-123 (1991). (22) I. M. Madany and M. S. Akhter, Lead levels in some eye cosmetics used in Bahrain, J. Environ. Sci. Health [A}, 27, 1541-1547 (1992). (23) A. M. Syed, M. Qadiruddin, K. Shirin, and Z. B. Hashmi, Determination of inorganic components including minor and trace elements in surma (kohl) formulations, Pak. J. Sci. Ind. Res., 37, 411--413 (1994). (24) R. Chappell, P. Billig, E. Brantly, S. Ault, and H. S. Ezzeldin, Lead Exposure Abatement Plan for Egypt: Results of Environmental Sampling for Lead, Environmental Health Project, Activity Report No. 32 (prepared for the USAID Mission to Egypt under EHP Activity No. 256-CC) (1997). (25) N. Lekouch, A. Sedki, N. Nejmeddine, and S. Gamon, Lead and traditional Moroccan pharmacopoeia, Sci. Total Environ., 280, 39-43 (2001).

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