Table IV Other Analyses of Kohl Samples No. containing n Made in Purchased in lead (%) Non-lead elements/ compounds 11 India and Pakistan Midlands (UK) 6 (55%) Zn,C/Menthol, Herbs, Pearls 13 Not given Kuwait 11 (85%) C/Fe2OyH2O, Herbs 17 Nigeria Nigeria 17 (100%) C/Herbs 21 Saudi Arabia and India Saudi Arabia 14 (67%) C,O,S,Si,Ca,Fe,Al,Ti,Sb,Na,Zn,Cl,K 47 Mostly India, Pakistan and Mostly Oman (39) 15 (32%) Mostly compounds based on Fe, Oman Ca, Zn, and B. Also, various C compounds. 23 Mostly India and Pakistan United Arab Emirates 11 (48%) Various largely as above. (Mostly Abu Dhabi, 18) 18 Egypt (11), India (4), China, Cairo 6 (33%) Various largely as above. Sudan and Saudi Arabia Kohl analyses using only AA (atomic absorption): 22 Mostly India, Pakistan and World-wide6 13a (59%) Not given Morroco 21 Mostly India, Pakistan and Bahrain r (33%) Not given Saudi Arabia 6 Mostly India and Saudi Arabia Saudi Arabia 4a (67%) Sb (at less than 10%) in five samples 10 Pakistan Pakistan (Karachi) 8 (80%) Zn (in the 2 non-lead samples), SiO2 (all) 8 Mostly Saudi Arabia Saudia Arabia 6a (75%) Sb, As, Cd and Pt (all at less than 1 % ) 28 Egypt (18), imported (10) Egypt (Greater Cairo) W (50%) Not given 10 Morocco (6), imported (4) Morroco (Marrakech) 10 (100%) Not given 107 Saudi Arabia, India, Pakistan, Saudi Arabia 62 (58%) Al, Sb (each at less than 1 %) and Iran Camphor/Menthol found in a few samples a Above 1 % lead. 6 America, UK, Morocco, and Mauritania. Method(s) used AA,XRPD AA, XRPD, SEM AA, XRPD, SEM SEM XRPD, SEM XRPD, SEM XRPD, SEM AA AA AA AA AA AA AA AA Year and reference (1979) (18) (1981) (19) (1984) (20) (1995) (15) (1998) (2) (2002) (1) (2004) (3) (1991) (21) (1992) (22) (1993) (16) (1994) (23) (1995) (17) (1997) (24) (2001) (25) (2004) (14) - r - r ..., z u 0 � 0 - 0 z 0 'Tl � 0 r � """"' tv VJ

124 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE samples having it present as a minor phase). Therefore, almost half (43%) of these 53 available samples contain a lead compound. Sixteen more were based on amorphous carbon, seven on zincite, five on sassolite, two on the iron compounds hematite and goethite, two on calcium carbonate, and one on talc. This study shows that traditional eye cosmetics, "kohls," are still readily available in the souks of Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al-Quwain, Ras Al-Khaimah, and Fujairah and that, unfortunately, many do still contain the toxic element lead (as PbS). The largest three emirates (Dubai, Sharjah, and RAK) have, as expected, the largest souks and thus the largest number of available kohl samples for purchase. If three kohl samples were bought in any one of these three emirates' souks, then there would be a high probability that one would contain lead, and in all likelihood there would be no clear indication of this on its container or enclosed leaflet. Moreover, some of the most available kohls not only contain lead, but contain it in a form (i.e., small particle size) that makes it more easily absorbed into the human gut. Finally, we can only reiterate that this element has no known biological value and is an insidious cumulative poison having potentially devastating cognitive effects if applied regularly to young children. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS We thank the following people for their help in the course of this study: Mr. P. Auchterlonie (Librarian for Middle East Studies, Exeter University, UK) for his help in translating phrases found, in various languages, on leaflets/containers of some of the samples mentioned in this article, and Dr. E. Berner (American University of Dubai, Dubai, UAE) for her local knowledge and help in arranging "field trips" to some of the more distant souks of the UAE. Also, we thank the staff of the Chemical and Materials Analysis Unit (University of Newcastle, UK) for the experimental SEM work mentioned in this article. REFERENCES (l) A. D. Hardy, H. H. Sutherland, and R. Vaishnav, A study of the composition of some eye cosmetics (kohls) used in the United Arab Emirates,]. Ethnopharrnacol., 80, 137-145 (2002). (2) A. D. Hardy, R. Vaishnav, S.S. Z. Al-Kharusi, H. H. Sutherland, and M.A. Worthing, Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Oman, J. Ethnopharmacol., 60, 223-234 (1998). (3) A. D. Hardy, R. I. Walton, and R. Vaishnav, Composition of eye cosmetics (kohls) used in Cairo, Int. J. Environ. Health Res., 14, 83-91 (2004). (4) (Marcus) Vitruvius (Pollio), De Architectura, Book 8, Chapter 6, Passages 10 and 11 (http://www.ukans . edu!history!index/ettropelancient_rome/EIRornan!Texts!Vitruvim/8. html). (5) R. L. Canfield, C.R. Henderson, D. A. Cory-Slechta, C. Cox, T. A. Jusko, and B. P. Lanphear, Intel- lectual impairment in children with blood lead concentrations below 10 µg per deciliter, New Engl.]. Med., 348, 1517-1526 (2003). (6) R. A. Goyer, Lead toxicity: From overt to subclinical to subtle health effects, Environ. Health Perspect., 86, 177-181 (1990). (7) H. L. Needleman, A. Schell, D. Bellinger, and E. N. Alfred, The long term effects of exposure to low doses of lead in childhood: An eleven year follow-up report, N. Engl. J. Med., 332, 83-88 (1990). (8) J. Schwartz and D. Otto, Lead and minor hearing impairment, Arch. Environ. Health, 46, 300-306 (1991). (9) C. D. Klaasen, Casarett and Dou/l's Toxicology, the Basic Science of Poisons, 5th ed. (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1996).