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J. Cosmet. Sci., 61, 289–301 (July/August 2010) 289 Morphological study of cationic polymer–anionic surfactant complex precipitated in solution during the dilution process M. MIYAKE and Y. KAKIZAWA, Functional Materials Research Laboratories (M.M.) and Beauty Care Research Center (Y.K.), Lion Corporation, 2-1 Hirai 7-Chome, Edogawa-ku, Tokyo 132-0035, Japan. Accepted for publication March 16, 2010. Synopsis We investigated the phase diagrams and the morphology of the complexes that were formed by cationic polymers, cationic cellulose (CC) and cationic dextran (CD), and by anionic surfactant-based sodium poly(oxyethylene) lauryl ether sulfate (LES). The anionic charge of the LES-based surfactants was changed by adding an amphoteric surfactant, lauryl amidopropyl betaine acetate (LPB), or a nonionic surfactant, poly- oxyethylene stearyl ether (C18EO25). We discuss the relationship between the complex aggregation process and the morphology of the precipitated complexes. The morphologies of CC complex aggregates, which precipitated during the dilution process in a model shampoo solution, changed from membranous forms to mesh-like forms by decreasing the charges of both the CC and the surfactant. Their touch on hair in the rins- ing process changed from sticky to smooth and velvety, corresponding to their rheological properties. In contrast, CD complex aggregates had a membranous form and a smooth touch independently of the charges on the polymer and surfactant. These results suggested that the control of the charges of both the polymer and surfactant and the choice of polymer structure are important for excellent conditioning effects upon rins- ing with shampoo. INTRODUCTION Polymers and surfactants are important materials in the fi elds of cosmetics and toiletries. The variety of properties generated from the interaction of these materials determines the functions of the fi nal products. In particular, the so-called trigger system, in which dilu- tion of the solution causes complexes formed between oppositely charged polymers and surfactants to precipitate, is the basic mechanism in conditioning shampoos these days (1). Since anionic surfactants are the basic material in cleaning agents, cationic polymers represented by cationic cellulose are utilized in shampoo (2–5). The complexes coacer- vated through dilution adhere to hair, prevent hair entanglement in the rinsing process, and promote the adhesion to hair of emollients such as silicone, thereby producing a con- ditioning effect (6,7). The effi ciency of shampoo is controlled by varying polymer species and by surfactant composition, and these factors determine the touch of hair in rinsing (8,9). Address all correspondence to M. Miyake.
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