JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 180 OUR SPECIFIC HAMAMELIS EXTRACT BALANCES ELASTIN—LOXL1 EXPRESSION TO OBTAIN FUNCTIONAL ELASTIN FIBERS Results showed that our specifi c Hamamelis extract at 0.05% induces LOXL1 mRNA expression by twofold in UVA-treated fi broblasts when the specifi c Hamamelis extract was added just after UVA exposure/treatment and when the specifi c Hamamelis extract was added 24 h before UVA and just after UVA (pre- and postirradiation). Fig ure 2. Induction of LOXL1 mRNA with a specifi c Hamamelis extract at 0.05% pre- and postirradiation with UVA exposure at 7.5 J/cm2 versus irradiated control (not treated with plant extract). Figu re 3. Evaluation of elafi n in normal UVA-treated human biopsies with and without the specifi c Hamamelis extract. (A) Quantifi cation of elafi n staining in purple in the dermis. (B) Corresponding images.

UNDERSTANDING SOLAR SKIN ELASTOSIS 181 LOXL1 mRNA was signifi cantly increased with the Hamamelis and UVA-treated cell culture compared with the untreated control (Figure 2). THE SPECIFIC HAMAMELIS EXTRACT DECREASES THE SYNTHESIS OF ELAFIN, RESULTING IN THE ELIMINATION OF ELASTOTIC AGGREGATES Results showed that UVA exposure signifi cantly induced by 230% the expression of elafi n in UVA-treated normal human biopsies. The specifi c Hamamelis extract at 0.5% inhibited elafi n expression in normal UVA-treated human skin sample, regardless of the manner Hamamelis extract is added (topically or systemically). Results were signifi cant when compared with the UVA-treated biopsies: topically—41% and systemically—35% (Figure 3). Each bar of the histogram represents the quantifi cation of the elafi n purple staining in the corresponding image in the dermis. We can see greater staining in UVA-treated skin samples compared with the nonirradiated and less of elafi n staining in the UVA-treated skin samples treated with the specifi c Hamamelis extract compared with the staining of UVA-treated skin samples without the specifi c Hamamelis extract. CLINICAL TESTS In a placebo-controlled clinical study, we evaluated by fringe projection the ability of Hamamelis to reduce wrinkles. Using Dynaskin®, we checked if Hamamelis extract can improve the fi rmness of the skin on female volunteers presenting wrinkles and/or fi ne lines on the temples or crow’s feet area and a sagging facial skin. HAMAMELIS: ANTIWRINKLE EFFECT AGAINST CROW’S FEET AREA (BY FRINGE PROJECTION) After applying the emulsion containing Hamamelis at 1% on one half of the face, we observed that the depth of the main wrinkles was reduced (ST) and the mean roughness Figur e 4. Quantitative measurement of the maximum depth of the wrinkle (ST) by fringe projection on the crow’s feet. Emulsion with Hamamelis extract at 1% and placebo. Mean percentage of change of ST com- pared with the baseline (D0).